Dropping Subframe Guidance

[mowflow 67]

Apologies if this is a straight forward job and I'm being a mong. I'm just worried I drop an engine on my head so want to check the process for dropping the subframe. It's kind of hard to tell what is connected to what as an oil leak has ensured a thick black layer of grime covers everything in this area on my car.

 

So far I have removed the front hubs, struts, brakes, drive shafts and disconnected the gear linkages. The steering is still connected. Non PAS and it appears to be some kind of pinch bolt. I'm guessing removing the pinch bolt should see this disconnected.

 

What else needs disconnected/removed and is it then just a case of 4 or 6 bolts (not counted them as not at that stage just yet). All guidance appreciated.

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

That should be pretty much it but you need to undo the bottom engine mount too. I removed mine recently to swap my diff so I went through the same process. Just make sure there are no pipes or wires clipped to the subframe and be careful not to drop it on your head as the centre of balance is a bit funny on these. Make sure when you put it back on that you get the L shape bracket in the right place as you may have to take it all off / undo the top of it and reposition if you forget

[DamirGTI 340]

As always , when working underneath - support the car on jack stands and make sure that it's stable !

 

Also , get yourself an pair of safety goggles (there's always loads of crap on the underside which will inevitably fall off and having something falling in your eyes is really annoying/irritant experience)

 

Since you've removed all the running gear , that then lefts gear linkages , steering rack UJ (can leave the steering rack ni place and remove it later once the subframe is down) and bottom engine mount .. dismantle this and then you're ready to undo and lower the subframe down .

There's 2 bolts at the back on each side (so 4 bolts) which goes into the body/floor stiffener , and 1 bolt up front again on each side (2 bolts) securing the subframe on the chassis legs .

 

Engine will be still held up top by the two mounts so it cannot drop down , just "swinging" a bit ..

 

I'd start with the 4 bolts from the rear and once they're undone , place some wooden blocks under and proceed to the 2 bolts up front undoing them from standing at an side of the car rather than underneath .. once you undone the front ones , the subframe will be free and will drop down completely

 

D

 

EDIT : beaten by Henry !

Edited October 15, 2013 by DamirGTI

[daneldridge23 15]

cant you just unbolt the steering rack from the sub frame? 2 bolts iirc

 

clutch cable is tied to the middle of the frame to

 

and as henry said either get some help or use some axle stands to support a side

^^^ beat me to it!

[mowflow 67]

Cheers. Good to get confirmation that I'm not about to drop the engine.

 

The car is on axle stands at the sills both front and rear but as the rear is stripped it was nose diving so I've put 150kg of weights from my gym in the boot and stuck 2 of the wheels under the sump for good measure. I'm super paranoid about working under a car so don't mess about with makeshift piles of bricks and wood (like I read in another thread while researching this).

 

The plan is to stick a trolley jack under the subframe to hold it in place before removing bolts then slowly lower the jack the same as I did with the rear axle.

 

I'll have a look for the clutch cable and unclip this. With regards to the steering rack, am I right in thinking the pinch bolt thing is the right bit to undo or is better to unbolt it from the frame if I can find the bolts amongst the inch of oil, grease, grit and general grime that is covering this whole area?

[Tom Fenton 1,536]

It is much easier to disconnect the lower rack in my opinion, that is how I always do it. Jack to lower it off works fine.

[GLPoomobile 958]

It's worth avoiding some grief by preparing the subframe bolts where they mount to the floor and chassis legs first. So clean them up with a stiff brush and spray Plusgas on a few times over a few hours (or even days, to soak). For the rear ones in the floor, best spray them from above, so inside the car with the carpet peeled back. It may sound like overkill to some, it just helps prevent the annoying experience of seized bolts. Especially as the front ones rely on captive nuts in the chassis legs, and so if they come free it becomes a total arsehole.

[mowflow 67]

Interior is out so will do that. Thanks for the advice everyone.

[mowflow 67]

Thought i'd just update for anyone doing this in future.

 

Dropped the subframe on Saturday. Sheared one of the bolts that goes into the footwell on the drivers side so not the end of the world. All the other bolts came off easy without need for heat, big bars or squirty stuff.

 

The only slight problem I had was the steering column. Dislocated both elbows trying to remove the bolt from the u joint thing just above the sub frame behind the engine but couldn't get it apart due to some kind of washer clamp thing. After a bit of fumbling and poking with a screwdriver I consulted the trusty haynes manual which pointed me towards the joint in the footwell. 2 minutes later the frame was dropped.

 

Wouldn't want to drop it on my head but it's much lighter than the rear axle. I don't know why but i was surprised by this.