Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
James Cornell

Radiator Issues

Recommended Posts

James Cornell

When I got my 205 GTI 1.9 phase 1.5 it had a pinhole leak in the rad and because I had to use the car for work I decided to just top it up every day for a few weeks whilst the new rad came.

 

Now I have bought a new radiator and I drained the system and fitted it on Saturday (using very pricy antifreeze/coolant) and now I have notice a line of coolant and it seems to be coming from the temp gauge (the big 30mm screw in thing).

 

I'm a bit pissed of with the car at the moment because for the last 4 weeks it has been up on the ramps every Saturday in a mad rush (normally stating at 05:45 to get it done) to get little things fixed (rear beam rebuild, bump stops, new brakes, new tyres, fuel/oil filters, plugs and all ignition components etc etc etc).

 

In essence if I am going to have to drain the coolant out this weekend I really want to make sure this is the last time I have to touch the rad (within reason) so I wanted your opinions on the best way to make sure the little bugger seals.

 

I was thinking a boat-load of PTFE-Gas tape but if anyone else has any suggestions or tricks I would really appreciate it

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

That's the thermoswitch for the radiator cooling fan.

 

There's normally a sealing washer present - is this missing on yours? PTFE tape would probably work, but I've never needed to resort to that and with the washer present they've always sealed fine for me.

 

Keep the faith - it does take a while to bring these cars upto scratch and rid them of the inevitable signs of age, wear and past neglect, but once done they're normally pretty reliable so long as you keep up with servicing and preventative maintenance :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Its an M22 copper crush washer you need, if you can't find one at a motorfactor or similar then the o.e part number is 0243 18, cost you about a quid, that'll be for any Pug or Citroen dealer, many others like VW also use the same size.

 

if the thermoswitch is unkown then it may be worthwhile getting a new one from a motorfactor, have a search as the part numbers were posted quite recently with a few different options for you.

Edited by welshpug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

Thanks for the response I will pop over to Peugeot and see if they have one in stock, I did think it was a little odd that a brand new radiator would spring a leak.

 

I will see how I get on :unsure:​

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

I have just been to my local Peugeot dealer and picked up this

 

2013_10_08_14_27_52.jpg

 

I will see if I have a chance to fit it tonight and see how much coolant i lose :unsure:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony

Part drain the cooling system first, and you'll lose next to nothing :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

Bowl under the car, catch what comes out, pour it back in .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

as above, especially given most replacement rads these days don't have a drain screw.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

luckily this rad has a drain screw which is nice, it is not a bad buy really if anyone needs a replacement rad...looks nice and shiny in silver too although I am sure after a few 1000 miles on the road it will dull and not look quite so cool.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281091567164?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

 

I will make sure I catch all of the coolant as I don't really want to buy any more ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Tom Fenton

I've fitted a couple of those rads for folk, they are a decent enough item at a very good price. Its not worth messing about with second hand tat when a new one is that cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

My thoughts exactly, although it is always worth fitting all of the required washers as well..........You learn something new every day

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

Well I have taken the radiator out (again) and refitted the thermostat switch with a new washer and some PTFE and a the great news is it has stopped leaking YAY!!!

 

More alarming is that I am still losing coolant at a rate of about 1.5l or every tank of fuel (320 odd miles).

 

I have no idea where the bloody hell this is leaking from now, the oil looks fine so I do not think it is a head gasket but short of changing all of the hoses (which I really can't afford at the moment) I don't know what to do.

 

It's not overheating and I can't see any pink residue anywhere in the engine bay which I would expect if there was a persistent leak.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

Get it up to temp and open the throttle a little to get some pressure in the hoses. Might be a perished hose with a pin prick that only leaks under high pressure?

 

Matrix?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

The matrix was replaced just before I got the car so that would be less likely but it may be that it was a poor replacement or badly fitted. I think running it up on the stands may show the gremlins if there are any, I will just try not to get too much coolant in my eyes/mouth...

 

I am really worried if it is the matrix because it must have lost 5L over the last month or two so it will have made a right bloody mess of the blukhead if that has been happening.

 

I will try and get a dry evening and give it a go...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

why did you take the rad out to change the thermoswitch? :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

Because when I bought the car it had a pin-hole leak in the bottom of the radiator so I replaced it, however when I put the thermo-switch back in the old washer was knackered and it did not seal properly so I took the rad back out last week and refitted the thermo-switch with a new washer and some PTFE.

 

That does not leak any more but I am losing quite a bit of coolant now so there must be another leak somewhere...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

Ok I think I have sussed it! I ran the car up the motorway keeping it at 4,000RPM and then pulled straight into a layby and the block was wet to the left and below the thermostat housing so I think it must be either the top hose or the thermostat housing.

 

I have called Spoox and they are putting me a top hose to one side so I will pop it on this weekend and see what happens...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

could be the joint between the housing and the head.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

That is my hope, as I can't imagine new thermostat housings are that easy to come by...

 

I will whip it off and refit with a sizeable wedge of Hylomar Blue

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

I would get some decent sealant for a start!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

Oh dear, how a little job can escalate!!!

 

I took the ancillaries off on Saturday to change the top hose and reseal the thermostat housing and when I removed the breather housing I noticed the block looked quite wet...So I though I know I will dry it and run the engine to see where the water was coming from, however as soon as I dried the block I noticed that it started to weep coolant from the head :(

 

So it is head gasket time so I have ordered full head rebuild kit, new head gasket, new cam belt, cam belt tensioner, new aux belt, new water pump and new exhaust bolts.

 

The plan is to rebuild all of the inlet components and clean them and then take out the valves and re-lap and replace all of the seals...

 

However I did not realise what a total cow it is to work on the engine in-situ, It has taken me three nights to remove the inlet, exhaust and remove the cam covers, I am now looking at the cam tensioner and water pump and really wondering how I will get my fingers/hands to bend into position to change them...

 

I really wish I had a bit more time as I would drop the box off and lift the engine but I am a bit committed now!

 

I have been told about a chap who will come over with the correct tensioning tool and setup the new cam belt but apart from that I am on my own so if anyone has any wisdom or advice on doing this alone on a driveway with a limited knowledge of the XU engine please feel free to post your two penneth as I really seem to be making a bloody hard job of this...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Not likely you will need a tool to tension the belt, 8valve xu engines up to mid 1992 have sprung sliding tensioners.

Edited by welshpug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

Sadly it does not give me any more space to work in :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Maybe not, but does save trying to get a tool down there in the first place.

 

Never thought it was that bad for space tbh, plenty far worse.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
James Cornell

I suppose I just have fat hands and I was treated as the last engine rebuild I did was completed out of the car...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×