Metallic Paint

[14PUG 8]

Hello Folks,

 

Advice requested on metallic paint please. I'm just putting the finishing touches to restoring a very nice, standard original 1.6. Its finished in Graphite Grey and needs a few minor paint patches attending to. When the cars were first produced I believe the early metallic colours had a clear lacquer top coat? (which sometimes peels). Have modern paints overcome this or is a top coat of lacquer still required?

 

Also, I had a look on the list of paint codes pinned in this forum and there appears to be two codes listed under Graphite Grey. Can anyone enlighten me as to the difference?

 

Finally, I'm debating whether or not to keep the car long term or possibly sell. What are the thoughts on difference in value of a car with original if slightly tatty paint versus one which has been re-sprayed. If I decide on the re-spray route, is anyone able to recommend a top notch GTi friendly paint shop in the South East of England?

 

Thanks all.

 

 

[GLPoomobile 958]

Put it this way, I very much doubt you could increase the value enough by selling it freshly painted, to actually cover the cost of the respray. In fact, I know you can't. So if you are going to sell, sell it as is. If it's a keeper, then consider a respray.

[14PUG 8]

Good points GL - thanks. I certainly wouldn't want to give the impression I was attempting to hide anything as it is a good all round solid car. BTW, what should people expect to pay these days for a top quality 'windows out' full re-spray?

[acox99 74 1 Cars]

Depends how far you want to go. If its back to bear metal and it needs filling shaping then 3-4k, if a descent tosh over then 1-2k. Paint is expensive and I'd rather see mechanical work then body work. Unless its rot of course. Up to you and budget. But I would mop it and clean up existing paintwork and try do do sympathetic paint repairs rather than respray for the sake of it.

[14PUG 8]

Depends how far you want to go. If its back to bear metal and it needs filling shaping then 3-4k, if a descent tosh over then 1-2k. Paint is expensive and I'd rather see mechanical work then body work. Unless its rot of course. Up to you and budget. But I would mop it and clean up existing paintwork and try do do sympathetic paint repairs rather than respray for the sake of it.

 

Thanks acox99. On the mechanical side, the car is in good shape. Its dry stored, professionally serviced and I've already replaced many key parts. Just mulling over the paint options now Should I re-spray and keep or should I sell? Hmm. Options. I have two other 1.9s but I've always had a soft spot for the 1.6 and bought this one about 3 years ago because it is exactly the same spec as one I owned from brand new! Its a sweet little car so it may be a keeper

[GLPoomobile 958]

Good points GL - thanks. I certainly wouldn't want to give the impression I was attempting to hide anything as it is a good all round solid car. BTW, what should people expect to pay these days for a top quality 'windows out' full re-spray?

 

No, you didn't give that impression. It's understandable you'd want to make it as presentable as possible, but it's one of the things that unless you can do it yourself or get it done at mates rates, you're never going to recoup the outlay come resale.

 

If it's just lacquer peel, then maybe it doesn't even need a respray. I'm no expert but you might be able to tidy it up just by having the affected areas rubbed down and re-lacquered.

[14PUG 8]

_{Thanks GI. I didn't know you could have areas re-lacquered.}

[Furyblade_Lee 2]

Yep, as long as the base coat is intact then you can just respray the panel in laquer. It will need flattening back to give a "dull" finish with wet and dry first, any shiny bits left will mean the laquer will not stick properly and peel again.

 

Co-incidentaly I have spent the whole day today sorting my paint out on my new graphite grey 1.6 Gti......

 

I bought it cheap as some spoon had resprayed a HOUSE next door to where this was parked ( where they mask up the house windows and spray masonary paint on ) and managed to spray several cars in the car park! I bought the car with maybe 2,000+ tiny spots of white paint all over. After several hours of picking them off, ( usual t-cut and compound was removing more paint than I liked to get the spots off, but I was polishing the masonary paint a treat!) enough was enough and I resorted to lots of hot soapy water and 2000 grit wet and dry sandpaper on a flat block. I gently flattened it and it easily removed 100% of the masonary paint with minimal laquer below, in fact it has bought the paint up beautifully smooth. I then gently compounded and cut the shine back, then polished, and will wax to seal it soon. I think if the last owner saw the car now he would not believe it was the same car.

 

I had a really bad case of laquer peel on the OS rear quater, and with minimal funds the throw at the car I had nothing to lose and set about it with the same 2000 grit on a block and hot soapy water. Surprisingly it flattened off 98% perfect and polished up so you cannot really see a laquer join to the casual glance. Luckily it seems it was laquer on laquer peeling, so there is still a laquer coating intact below. Will it last or peel again? Maybe, but for now it is sorted for free and feels like glass, so I will wait and see. Its surpising how good a gentle 2000 grit flatten and compound will bring back dead paintwork and laquer, just don't rub through the laquer!!!

[14PUG 8]

Thanks Mr Furyblade. Can I ask what lacquer paint should be used and where it can be bought from? Thanks.

[Furyblade_Lee 2]

I get mine from a place called L E Went in South Norwood,London. They mix paint aerosols there and then in any colour and can scan paint on the car for a decent colour match if you don't know the code of a resprayed car. There are different laquers, I am sure maybe Halfods ones work well but I go to the place the trade uses and the cans have a vertical spray pattern not circular like Halfords ones. A mate who has his own bodyshop I think advised me wet-flatting with 1000 grit to prepare for re-laquer ( but check first online to be sure ) and make sure you wipe the panel with panel wipes to get all the dust off. Dont spray the laquer outdoors, in cold, the evening or in damp conditions. It will just go t*** up. Thin coats with abou 10 minutes in between and let the laquer harden for a few days before exposing to the elements and a few weeks before flatting and polishing up. Apprently aerosol laquer does not have proper hardener like a bodyshop would use so takes longer to harden and ill never go quite as hard ( Its hardener has to react to air and not not set solid in the can ). And again, it is vital you dont spray onto any shiny bits or the laquer will not stick properly long term.

 

* Just to add I am a Gas Engineer who plays with cars not a pro sprayer! But this method has worked for me, don't shoot me down in flames! I build and compete in Kitcars and cannot afford to get all the scrapes and dings repaired professionally, have had to do it myself. Take time and nobody guesses you did it yourself while drinking beer. Hopefully a pro will be able to give some better advice. Have fun and enjoy respaying the car, I love doing it.

[14PUG 8]

_{Many thanks}