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Alan_M

E46 330I Sport - Buying Advice

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Alan_M

Off to look at a 330Ci Sport tomorrow, hopefully, and was after any advice on buying. It's a 2003 face-lifted model.

 

I know about the bowing radiators & rusty wings but is there anything else to watch out for (Vanos maybe)?

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welshpug

Sandy is on his second one after an interlude via Honda :)

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allanallen

Rust, wishbone bushes, slow leccy windows, did I mention rust? :P

 

My 330d currently has an intermittent traction control fault too. Awesome car though

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Anthony

Do the 330's suffer from the same issues of the rear subframe/diff mounts cracking that E46 M3's are increasingly having problems with?

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acox99

Boot floors fracturing like the earlier models

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Alan_M

Fractured boot floors appear to be restricted to earlier models, and predominantly tow-cars (and M3s) although a few slip through the net. BMW were still offering repair patches up to a few years ago.

 

How can you tell a knackered Vanos unit....rattling?

 

The car will come with a years MOT and warranty so hopefully stuff like knackered bushes/cracked floors should be identified.

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Kettmark

Pot luck, same as with any other car. Get the best you can afford & with fewest owners & most thorough history. Thats your best bet. I've had mine for 9 years, currently 159K & serviced every 6 months. Anything needs doing, it gets done. It's worth next to nowt but is of great value to me; hence a keeper.

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Sandy

The VANOS on this engine is generally not a problem. But regular oil changes should be favoured. Buy on condition and feel. My first one looked and felt slightly tired and turned out to have lots of smouldering issues, but the one I've got now looked and felt tidier immediately (despite more miles) and has proven to be much less trouble and rust free.

 

Look for the water temp to be between 1/3 and 1/2 way, any lower means the stat is playing up and it won't be running right; but not a major job. higher than half way, walk away, head gasket probably gone and that's quite a job.

The exhaust bypass flap on the right hand tailpipe will probably be stuck shut, in which case the top end go will be slightly dulled, or it may have been stuck open, in which case it'll be boomy around 2000-2500rpm.

Excessive drivetrain shunt and/or rattles from the gearbox area, means dual mass is dead, which is going to be around £500.

Make sure the driver's window will open and close cleanly at speed.

Any ABS/Traction lights on probably means the pressure switch in the ABS block is faulty, means off the road time to fix because it'll need sending away to fix and bear in mind that's an MOT fail, so it shouldn't have a fresh ticket!

Check the A/C works properly, they often don't get serviced.

 

Make sure it drives neutrally, if it wanders or is very sensitive to ruts and cambers, then geometry and subframe/mount cracking are likely. It can be huge amounts of work to resolve, just look for a better car. They all pull around a bit, especially on 18s, but it should be so bad as to have a mind of its own.

 

Having had both, I'd suggest the Sport over the SE, the firmer ride is more consistent and feels less vague. It's nothing like as firm as the later cars (E90-93 and 1-series sport models), just positive. Sachs dampers are the OE and should be preferred for replacements. Don't expect Bilstein sport/sprint to be as beautifully resolved as on Peugeots, bizarrely they aren't, rather bouncy, too much bump.

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2052006

I'd agree with what Sandy says about the Sport being more consistent and less vague than the SE. The steering is better on the Sport too, as are the seats.

 

However, I had a Sport (albeit with the 2d engine), and eventually got tired of the ride on the standard 18s. It was very good to drive fast on smooth roads and the ride was ok, but how often do you get smooth roads in the UK? IMO, it was just too firm for most (read: crap) B/A roads in the UK and was a large reason why I got rid in the end. I dread to think what the e90 models with m-sport suspension plus runflats must be like...ensure you can live with the ride under "normal" day to day driving before buying...

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Alan_M

The VANOS on this engine is generally not a problem. But regular oil changes should be favoured. Buy on condition and feel. My first one looked and felt slightly tired and turned out to have lots of smouldering issues, but the one I've got now looked and felt tidier immediately (despite more miles) and has proven to be much less trouble and rust free.

 

Look for the water temp to be between 1/3 and 1/2 way, any lower means the stat is playing up and it won't be running right; but not a major job. higher than half way, walk away, head gasket probably gone and that's quite a job.

The exhaust bypass flap on the right hand tailpipe will probably be stuck shut, in which case the top end go will be slightly dulled, or it may have been stuck open, in which case it'll be boomy around 2000-2500rpm.

Excessive drivetrain shunt and/or rattles from the gearbox area, means dual mass is dead, which is going to be around £500.

Make sure the driver's window will open and close cleanly at speed.

Any ABS/Traction lights on probably means the pressure switch in the ABS block is faulty, means off the road time to fix because it'll need sending away to fix and bear in mind that's an MOT fail, so it shouldn't have a fresh ticket!

Check the A/C works properly, they often don't get serviced.

 

Make sure it drives neutrally, if it wanders or is very sensitive to ruts and cambers, then geometry and subframe/mount cracking are likely. It can be huge amounts of work to resolve, just look for a better car. They all pull around a bit, especially on 18s, but it should be so bad as to have a mind of its own.

 

Having had both, I'd suggest the Sport over the SE, the firmer ride is more consistent and feels less vague. It's nothing like as firm as the later cars (E90-93 and 1-series sport models), just positive. Sachs dampers are the OE and should be preferred for replacements. Don't expect Bilstein sport/sprint to be as beautifully resolved as on Peugeots, bizarrely they aren't, rather bouncy, too much bump.

 

 

I'd agree with what Sandy says about the Sport being more consistent and less vague than the SE. The steering is better on the Sport too, as are the seats.

 

However, I had a Sport (albeit with the 2d engine), and eventually got tired of the ride on the standard 18s. It was very good to drive fast on smooth roads and the ride was ok, but how often do you get smooth roads in the UK? IMO, it was just too firm for most (read: crap) B/A roads in the UK and was a large reason why I got rid in the end. I dread to think what the e90 models with m-sport suspension plus runflats must be like...ensure you can live with the ride under "normal" day to day driving before buying...

 

I used to own a 120d with the M sport suspension and bigger wheels (and runflats) so know all to well the harsher ride on later BMWs.

 

The car I was going to see has gone now, but thanks for the advice!

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