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dave205

306 V6 Will Not Bleed!

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dave205

No it doesnt push any water out until its ran for a few minutes, if it did would you suggest head gasket?

*head gaskets

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Slo

If it forced the water out with pressure, rather than just circulation from the water pump, when its cold almost certainly. But later on when it gets hot doubt it but its possible.

 

I can see from some pictures why you are having plumbing problems, man it looks a nightmare to figure out and i thought the turbo was a challenge.

Edited by Slo

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welshpug

its very simple actually, two pipes off the rear of the thermostat cover go the the matrix, the two front ones go to the rad.

 

one metal pipe left over that goes to the header tank.

 

sounds like you do have it plumbed in correctly other than not having a bleed pipe from the rad nor the tank high enough by the sounds of it.

 

 

I do recall now that AdamB had problems getting all the air out of his 306 V6, that used a 406 rad as well, but the trick of an upturned pop bottle with the bottom cut off sorted that.

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Slo

Might be simple to the trained eye or a 406 owner mei but if i'd bought a 406 engine for my 205 and it came with no pipes like that i wouldnt know where to start its a massive engine for such a tiny bay.

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dave205

Might be simple to the trained eye or a 406 owner mei but if i'd bought a 406 engine for my 205 and it came with no pipes like that i wouldnt know where to start its a massive engine for such a tiny bay.

I'll second that, although i had a rough idea i struggled with my turbo engine and had to get some guidance!

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dave205

Im going to remove the stat totally tonight to be 100 percent sure and get a mate to hold a 2 litre bottle in the header, bleed it at every bleed point and see what happens this time, fingers crossed it'll work!!

 

I can chuck the front end back on it then!

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Goliath

I would still recommend getting a header tank with a small hose connection on the top and plumbing it in where the top hose comes out of the radiator.

 

I'm on my 4th V6 conversion and have had the same issues you describe until I plumbed in a bleed pipe to the header tank and then bled the system from the top heater matrix pipe.

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dave205

I would still recommend getting a header tank with a small hose connection on the top and plumbing it in where the top hose comes out of the radiator.

 

I'm on my 4th V6 conversion and have had the same issues you describe until I plumbed in a bleed pipe to the header tank and then bled the system from the top heater matrix pipe.

So the no bleeding issues cued themself as a result of fitting that extra pipe? Do the v6 engines have that originally then?

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dave205

Tried to bleed the car 3 times today, frustratingly got no were.

 

Ive cut the center out of the thermostat to be 100% that isnt the issue.

 

Ive changed the header tank for an Xu one and ran a small bore bleed hose to the top of the rad.

 

Neither of these has made a jot of difference, after approx ten minutes of running, the header tank it empties itself out and steams like crazy....seriously demoralised right now :/

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TooMany2cvs

Have you tried raising the fill level? You're getting an airlock, in large part I suspect, because you're not filling at the high point.

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Slo

Sounds more like water not flowing to me due to wrong plumbing. Have you got some pictures yet dave?

 

And i wouldn't rule out the water pump either, the fins could have broke off on the inside, i've had a couple of dodgy brand new ones. The last one broke off the timing belt sprocket and the sprocket bored a hole in the timing belt cover. This could have been due to over tightening the belt although I doubt it.

 

DSC000322_zps639788f0.jpg DSC000332_zpsdf1bcd88.jpg

 

This is the turbo engine I have in my car now, luckily the sprocket span on the outside of the water pump shaft and the timing belt didn't fall off or jump a tooth, it didn't make any noise and I only discovered it when the temperature started going completely off the scale very quickly. This pump was 2 weeks old. All i'm telling you this for is so you are aware it could be a similar issue.

Edited by Slo

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dave205

Have you tried raising the fill level? You're getting an airlock, in large part I suspect, because you're not filling at the high point.

Yeah sorry meant to put that in my original post, lifted the bottle 6" higher then stuck a 2 litre bottle in the header aswell

Sounds more like water not flowing to me due to wrong plumbing. Have you got some pictures yet dave?

Yeah but having issues with the computer so struggling to upload them.

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dave205

I removed the aircom pump before i installed the engine amd bought a shorter belt and re-routed it, is it possible im spinning the water pump backwards?

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TooMany2cvs

<chuckle>

Entirely possible!

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Slo

Make an account on photobucket then download the app on your phone and upload the pictures from your phone simple. We really need to see what you have done to confirm, but i seriously doubt you spin the pump backwards.

 

After all it has timing belt teeth and to be able for it to rotate the opposite way you would have to put the belt round it on its back (smooth side).

 

Well that is if the water pump is on the timing belt or is it on a separate auxiliary belt?

Edited by Slo

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welshpug

No, not at all. PMSL.

 

 

Did you not notice that the aux belt only drives the alternator pas and ac?

 

 

Its timing belt driven.

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dave205

No, not at all. PMSL.

 

 

Did you not notice that the aux belt only drives the alternator pas and ac?

 

 

Its timing belt driven.

Glad thats ruled out then :)

Make an account on photobucket then download the app on your phone and upload the pictures from your phone simple. We really need to see what you have done to confirm, but i seriously doubt you spin the pump backwards.

 

After all it has timing belt teeth and to be able for it to rotate the opposite way you would have to put the belt round it on its back (smooth side).

 

Well that is if the water pump is on the timing belt or is it on a separate auxiliary belt?

I have photobucket app now, but dont k lw how to upload

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dave205

A3D76003-C2FF-4CFF-9D21-ECE0456988F9-954

 

D9F3D3E0-23F2-447D-88C8-1841EB350386-954

 

E4AAC46D-D406-47BB-B3BE-7AB7FAB2B6AD-954

 

0162289D-38C0-4F9E-A0B4-27299F837F1C-954

 

43D80D69-CC99-43A3-8983-E832CE8CCE96-954

 

These are the pics of how its plumbed up

And last ome is of it boiling!

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Slo

Lol brew up. On the photobucket app press the upload box then upload image box,choose pictures press done.

 

On service box images you can see there is no bleed pipe to the radiator it comes from the ball thing that the heater matrix connects to

post-21076-0-55705400-1380478655_thumb.jpg

post-21076-0-57918700-1380478664_thumb.jpg

Edited by Slo

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dave205

D506F6CE-D565-4761-9396-21101081FFD5-954

 

This is the new header tank, bottom

Outlet to the black metal pipe that goes into the head below the stat housing. The small bore hose on the right goes to the top of the rad. The one on the right as you can see is blanked as recommended by goliath.

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welshpug

If thats a 306 cap you need to trim off those bits that stick down.

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dave205

If thats a 306 cap you need to trim off those bits that stick down.

Which bits mate?

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welshpug

the ones that stick down and foul on the overflow pipe, not letting the cap turn fully to the sealed position.

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dave205

the ones that stick down and foul on the overflow pipe, not letting the cap turn fully to the sealed position.

It seemed to close ok, least of my worries really lol.

 

Do you think 10-15 mins for an engine of this size is a very short time for it to boil over, considering its sat on the driveway with no airflow in and enclosed ish area and it has no fan fitted?

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Slo

Not really but the fact that the heater isn't getting warm is a tell tale sign that water isn't flowing.

 

While your pictures are nice and clear they don't exactly show whats connected to what apart from the radiator pipes. Can you show where the heater pipes are connected. Even service pox isn't super clear on the heater return.

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