Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Arwing

Changing Shocks - I'm Stuck

Recommended Posts

Arwing

See below picture. In the process of changing my shocks on a 1.4 GT. I've undone and removed both nuts and bolts (see circles). I've also removed the 3 top strut nuts accessed via the engine bay.

 

The shock just won't come out of it's clamp (see line). I've tried lowering it onto bricks, hoping the weight of the car will pop it out, but it hasn't.

 

Any tips or ideas? or am missing something here? Cheers.

 

post-23676-0-58280300-1379855574_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jord294

Knock a chisel gently in at the back to gently flair the hub carrier

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
GTI6BOY

You need to bang a wedge in the gap in the hub. I find a halfords 13mm ratchet spanner fits perfectly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

8mm square sump plug key is ideal for this,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

put strut top nuts back in get a block of wood on the top in front of the strut as you look at it and hit it with something big and heavy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Arwing

Nope, nothing is shifting this. Will borrow a lump (or sledge) hammer off someone and just keep twotting it until it comes lose. Any other suggestions welcome in the meantime. It's decided to rain now so giving up for today as a bad idea. Otherwise i might lose my patience, which isn't a good idea with a screw driver in one hand and a hammer in the other :angry:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

I'd remove the complete assembly tbh, much quicker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

Crack the clamp hard with a big hammer to break the grip should free off after a few smacks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
omega

I hope you have it on axel stands as well!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miles

Make sure the other wheel is in the air too

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

good point, pesky ARB's!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Arwing

I hope you have it on axel stands as well!

Dont have it on axle stands. Just jacked up with bricks under the brake disc and a spare wheel under the engine. Borrowing some of a friend though when i change the rear axle.

 

Make sure the other wheel is in the air too

Will this help with what i'm trying to do?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jackherer

Bricks are not safe to hold cars up and the brake disc is not a jacking point. If you have the suspension compressed on one side the anti roll bar will be transferring that to the other side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Arwing

Bricks are not safe to hold cars up and the brake disc is not a jacking point. If you have the suspension compressed on one side the anti roll bar will be transferring that to the other side.

Bricks are just as a safety measure, as is the spare wheel under the engine. It's supported still by a hydraylic jack. So if i gey both wheels off the ground, it'll make getting this shock free easier?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
DamirGTI

Bolt the strut back up with the 3 nuts , undo hub to strut joint bolt , undo the susp. arm balljoint off the hub so that the strut/hub assembly swings freely without the arm supporting it from underneath .. then whack the hub from the top with an hammer till it slides off the strut - always worked for me .

 

D

Edited by DamirGTI

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

never needed to hammer, use something in the clamp as mentioned and they will just slide off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

Dont have it on axle stands. Just jacked up with bricks under the brake disc and a spare wheel under the engine. Borrowing some of a friend though when i change the rear axle.

 

Will this help with what i'm trying to do?

 

 

You have bricks under the brake discs and trying to knock the hub carrier off the end of the strut? That's how im reading this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
allye

 

You have bricks under the brake discs and trying to knock the hub carrier off the end of the strut? That's how im reading this.

 

Same! The entire hub needs to be free. Leave the the 3 nuts up top done up then give the hub some persuasion to come free.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Arwing

 

You have bricks under the brake discs and trying to knock the hub carrier off the end of the strut? That's how im reading this.

Bricks are under the brake disc yes, but only as a safety measure (once had a jack fail on me). They arn't supporting the car in anyway and there is enough space for the hub carrier to drop - though reading my post i can see how it sounded it was resting on the bricks :lol:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

Ahh right gonna say lol they can be a right bitch to free off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ORB

Dude, logic.

 

So, bash bash bash on hub. Just as hub falls off the strut the jack collapses. The brake disk lands on bricks, wishbone swings upwards as the car comes down.....

 

Dead.

 

Axle stands cost 2 pence and life is priceless.

 

 

Anyway, if this does not work, get someone else to do it.

 

Jack up car from sub frame, put stands under jacking point. Lower car onto stands to take weight (hand brake on) - remove drop links, release clamp bolts in hub holding lower end of strut, insert 8mm sump plug tool or 13mm spanner or even a chisel to spread clamp, hub will drop off strut.

 

Done.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeC

I use an allen key to spread the clamp, knock in and twist.

Safety is paramount

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Emmy Seize

I use an allen key to spread the clamp, knock in and twist.

 

 

Or you can buy FACOM tool No. DS.J5 (the Google picture search brings that up first), which is completely over the top, but satisfied my desire for special tools.

 

If used correctly, even the rustiest hub will only need a gentle tap to free.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Arwing

Dude, logic.

 

So, bash bash bash on hub. Just as hub falls off the strut the jack collapses. The brake disk lands on bricks, wishbone swings upwards as the car comes down.....

 

Dead.

 

Axle stands cost 2 pence and life is priceless.

 

 

Anyway, if this does not work, get someone else to do it.

 

Jack up car from sub frame, put stands under jacking point. Lower car onto stands to take weight (hand brake on) - remove drop links, release clamp bolts in hub holding lower end of strut, insert 8mm sump plug tool or 13mm spanner or even a chisel to spread clamp, hub will drop off strut.

 

Done.

It's a hydraulic trolly jack. Plus a 2nd standard jack is also being used. Also got spare wheels under the subframe. Not conventional i know, but the car's not going anywhere. Car's been standing over a year, i have no handbrake, so don'y fancy having both front wheels off thre ground. Will attack it again at the weekend (wether permitting).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×