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dirtdog

Modifying Wishbones

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MikeC

Cheers for that Damir, roads ain't much better over here either :blink:

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dirtdog

So whats the best type to get? I'm going to keep my originals incase someone discovers a magical cure (please be soon), but for the meantime i need tidy bones which are easily modified to accept replacable ball joints. Although if i win the lotto on saturday ill get some proper ones lol

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dirtdog

Cheers mei

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welshpug

Just thinking about these again, and wondering how feasible it would be to weld a spherical bearing housing onto an original wishbone, rather than machining the balljoint cup.

 

it is in essence exactly how many aftermarket wishbones are constructed, here's an example from Satchell Engineering...

 

 

(hope you don't mind me borrowing the pic Colin, nice welding my TiggerDave! )

 

559125_505908762766264_905724003_n.jpg

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calvinhorse

The problem is you're welding to cast on a standard wishbone so you need alot more contacting area

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calvinhorse

The problem is you're welding to cast on a standard wishbone so you need alot more contacting area

 

Worth a try tho :)

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welshpug

yes, that was my thought, at least it is cast steel not iron!

 

doubt my MIG is up to it though :lol:

 

will see if my mate is up to it, he welds up diggers, main problem I guess would be machining the arm accurately, could always wrap some steel around the housing too, bit like what he did with this Hedge cutter below that had cracked in half!

 

1395993_10202061202159141_316588212_n.jp

 

1385311_10202068034409943_1498466340_n.j

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allanallen

Can't see why you couldn't do it, the housings will need machining afterwards though as despite what some people preach it will warp during welding. Spherical bearings need to be an accurate fit in the housing or they'll go buggered in no time at all.

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stef205

Just thought id share were i have got to in my path to rose joint wishbones, i have had a set of pins made and spacers to suit.

null_zps6a6394a1.jpg

 

im not 100% happy with them as id like abit more shank on them but its a step closer, ive yet to fully weld the inserts in untill i know i have the joint angle in the right place.

:)

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rallyeash

Looks good though

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Tom Fenton

Some constructive critiscm from soneone else who has made their own! On the ones I've made I made the threaded bosses that weld to the arm much longer, this is to give more area for the welded joint to reduce stress on the joint. I also made a jig to bore a semi circular recess in the end if the arm to make sure the insert is properly supported.

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Tom Fenton

9B61A39D-A869-45F8-BE68-6F97784DD71F-290

 

513FFDE5-C8EA-48A0-A786-3330B75D6271-290

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205wrc

Stef205 - You really need to make those spacers a "Top Hat" style of spacer otherwise you will not have enough movement in the ball of the rose joint

 

Tom Fenton - Nice looking jig there :-) Personally, I would machine a deeper slot in the arm as the more original material you have around your sleeve, the stronger your arm will be. What size rose joints are you using?

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allanallen

Stef205 - You really need to make those spacers a "Top Hat" style of spacer otherwise you will not have enough movement in the ball of the rose joint

 

Tom Fenton - Nice looking jig there :-) Personally, I would machine a deeper slot in the arm as the more original material you have around your sleeve, the stronger your arm will be. What size rose joints are you using?

Tom and I both use mcgill 3/4 x 3/4 unf joints at £12 a pop. Mine have now done about 600 road rally miles and have had some serious abuse on the whites, the joints are still like new. Edited by allanallen

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allanallen

Stef what size joints are they? If the lock nut was that far up towards the joint on mine it would hit the hub in use. Are they top hat spacers to reduce the size of the joint?

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stef205

Al, they are 3/4" x 3/4" joints and the spacers are reducers. I hadn't planned to keep the inserts as said they need to be bigger.

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