Ht Leads - Can't Find Right Ones

[SebRad 0]

Hi, my 1.9CTI isn't running very well and I'm moderately confidant it's the HT leads. I've been to the local motor factors (APD) and they've looked it up and can't find the right ones in their book, despite getting the right distributor cap!

 

Overview:

 

The distributor cap has socket (for want of the proper name) type connections:

 

and the coil has pin type connection and is mounted on the inlet manifold:

 

I've also looked on eBay and get similar problems finding the right ones.

If anyone has any good idea what the right leads are or where to get them I'd be grateful?

 

Many thanks, Seb

Edited August 27, 2013 by SebRad

[welshpug 1,661]

looks like a 1.6 gti cap, so a 1.6 gti lead set would work.

 

1.9 has male ends on the dizzy cap.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Most lead sets come with both types of coil lead due to the change over, If not just get one by itself

[acox99 74 1 Cars]

I've got a 91 1.6 with a screw on cap, it's a Bosch dizzy. By any chance could it be the wrong dizzy, it goes ok. In guessing a 1.9 dizzy curve would be totally wrong.

Male ends on the cap as well i should add

[Davy 18 1 Cars]

I've got a 91 1.6 with a screw on cap, it's a Bosch dizzy. By any chance could it be the wrong dizzy, it goes ok. In guessing a 1.9 dizzy curve would be totally wrong.

Male ends on the cap as well i should add

 

I've a late 1.6 and it has the male ended cap too. I think this is correct for the late 1.6's.

 

I got a set of leads off Ebay ok, just going by the diagram showing the end types (i.e male or female) for each of the leads. I was looking for the 'all male ended' set but there were difinately a few different sets available.

[welshpug 1,661]

try GMF or Gloucester Motaquip

[SebRad 0]

Thanks for the help guys I've now ordered a set for a 1.6 that look right in the picture, hope they make it run better...

 

Many thanks, Seb

[SebRad 0]

OK so I got some new HT leads but it still won't run properly anymore

 

The problem is one that has developed, ie it started as the odd "hesitation" and has gotten steadily worse over a few weeks.

Now it will start and idle ok but as soon as put load on the engine, like pulling away it just dies. If give it lots of revs it will pull away but then you need to keep the revs up or it just splutters badly with no power. To some extent when it's spluttering and kangarooing if you give it full throttle it can kind of work itself out after a few seconds and pulls strongly until have to slow down or change gear.

 

Before it got really bad I thought it was better first thing in the morning, starting to get spluttery as got to work but after sitting in the sun all day wouldn't be so good at all coming home. Now it's pretty much undriveable from cold

 

So far I've put new:

Distributor cap

Rotor arm

HT Leads

Plugs

Coil

Ignition Amplifier

 

When I took the plugs out they where very black.

None of the above changes have made any appreciable difference, better or worse.

The head gasket had to be done about 10K miles ago, at same time did valve stem seals, cam belt & water pump.

The head was skimmed and pressure tested at the time too.

I've not noticed any untoward smoke out of it and there's not excess pressure in the cooling system nor has it lost any water.

 

My car is 1.9 CTI (91 K) with a cat, I'm now out of sensible ideas as to what might be wrong with it but as I was using it as a daily driver I'd appreciate any thoughts.

 

Many thanks, Seb

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

What voltage is your alternator putting out?

Just thinking it could be your alternator dying

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

What amp did you use as well, the blue Bosch ones are the only ones that seem to work correctly

[farmer 328 1 Cars]

Peugeot have stopped selling the Bosch Units, maybe somewhere else may have stock.

[jackherer 543]

Is it running Motronic? If so it could be the crank sensor breaking down.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

It will be the old Jetronic system on that, No crank sensors used just added a 3 wire lambda which made running a allot better (Normally)

[SebRad 0]

Yes as Miles says it has a lambda sensor, which was replaced not that long ago.

The alternator was replaced with a fully refurb one not so long ago either, although I will check the voltage.

I had the inlet pipe work off the AFM and could see the flap move in response to opening the throttle.

I'll see about giving it a clean and check all the smaller pipework and then take it to a friend who has some experience and diagnostic equipment.

 

Thanks for the suggestions, Seb

[SebRad 0]

Hi, just to bring some closure to this issue in case it helps anyone else it tuns out the problem was the airflow meter.

Once I'd given it a clean up the car was miles better and since I've given it a through cleaning I've had no hesitations / hiccups at all :-)

I guess it wasn't telling the ECU anything like the truth so was getting too much or little fuel, too much I suspect.

 

I cleaned out the 'air' part with by spraying through with carb cleaner, then a blowing out then wiping up with paper. I think probably is was the electrical cleaning that really did it though. For that I started by removing the black plastic cover and then cleaning the carbon track thoroughly. Switch cleaner probably ideal but I don't have any so used computer heatsink paste cleaning fluid (ArctiClean), which is pretty good stuff, for example will dissolve glue and sticky residues. On the second attempt I used an old toothbrush to scrub the track and also the contact that sticks up in the center that rotates. I also attempted to scrub the external connector / plug contacts as best I could. Now it runs quite smoothly so good result.

 

I guess moral of my story is do the 'free' things first, like cleaning out pipes, checking for leaks, checking contacts etc before spending money, with no good diagnosis, on new parts that may or may not help!

 

Regards, Seb

[jimmy b 1]

hello seb..ive now got the same issue..first I thought it was just a h/t lead going down.... as I had one broken corroded..so I replaced them all the dizzy cap,rotar arm ,plugs& coil, my 1.6 early d reg is not starting ..stinks of petrol coughing & spluttering. not idiling...it was fine tues evening..this is also a daily driver..or was...its sitting outside feeling very sorry for itself..my black mk6 escort cabby is pissing itself laughing...I am not however..i did clean the afm..got rid of the nasty pipoercross air filter& sparco pipework & went back to o/e ..it just went down with no warning..but this is my 3rd set of leads..all from different motor factors..ive now ordered a set from gsf..they matched up my dizzy cap & rotar arm..my last guy sold me a rotar arm cheap..& it gouged a big line in the new dizzy cap..after 2 days....me thinks it was wrong..lol...but I don't even know the correct firing order & I may have mixed up the ht leads anyway..i cant find pictures anywhere on the correct way to fit ht leads to a 1.6 dizzy cap..i may be wrong..but I need help..

[SebRad 0]

Hi jimmy, I'm no expert at all on this...

If you look at the first picture I posted you see the order of the HT leads in the cap, assuming yours is the same that's one thing you can rule out.

For me I think it was the cleaning the carbon track under the black cover on the top of the AFM that made the difference, although I did clean the plug/connectors on the side where the loom plugs in.

 

I did have kind of similar symptoms, black plugs, heavy fuel consumption and smell, except it would idle fine and rush up the road on full throttle, just everywhere in between that was problem. If your ECU isn't getting the right signal from the AFM that will be a problem, but there could be other causes.

 

Seb

[dcc 855]

Sounds like a combination of faults. There is a thread on here which illustrates the correct direction for ht leads from the distributor. As for your issues, check the ecu temp sensor, ignition amp and the afm. Then fpr, fuel filter, injector voltages, flowrates, check correct ecu / afm / injector combo

[jimmy b 1]

the leads ,dizzy cap ,rotar arm etc & plugs all replaced. now ....it does run a lot better..thanks stewart at gsf in harlow Essex..he picked up a bosh kit so it all matched. .took 3 attempts lol ..now ive only got the high tickover ..ie 1500 rpm..& when its fully warm it drops the revs almost cutting out..till you get some cold air through the rad..then its sweet again..but if all the lights ,heater stereo is running ..then you flick the driving lamps on ..the revs drop again..almost cutting out...il test the alternator tomorrow after work..ive read this wont help..but im no expert re all these sensors..i replaced all the maf,tps,90 degree crankcase breather pipe,etc on my mk 6 1.8 zetec escort for around £100 off e bay..all new pattern parts..but it solved all my running issues..ie rev it up & the revs drop to around 300 rpm..then hunt & pick back up to around 750 rpm.. with my pug..im clueless...the only reason ive still got it as it stands me in nearly £1500..half what my escort cost..but it does put a big smile on my face after driving it..my escort is like a oil tanker ..wallowy suspension..slow pick up off the throttle..everything my pug isn't..i love it..