Oil Pressure Issues At Idle After Oil & Filter Change

[johnhenry 20]

Evening all

 

I was running the car with mobil super 2000 oil in it and a guttman filter from ECP, oil got warm and would sit at the lowest bar before the red box of doom. Never went to the 'stop' light

 

Changed the oil yesterday for Castrol Magnatec 10W40 (part synth) like the super 2000 oil, and a Mann oil filter. Now after warming up, sits on the line or just above, but when its really hot after sitting in traffic for a while it drops into the 'stop' section and the engine temp light comes on, even though the temp is fine (and the gauge works fine)

 

When driven the oil pressure is fine, just above 4/5 bars and down to 2/5 bars

 

so i just keep the revs higher with my foot at idle and the light stays off, only happened yesterday evening and done about 20 miles on this setup

 

I know the pressure gauge has issues, but it was absolutely fine up until i changed the oil and filter over, wonder if the combination has had something to do with it.

 

> good idea to get new filter and an a different oil? If so which ones?

> get a mechanical gauge onto the system and see what it reads? Ive read anything below 15psi isnt a good sign (this came from a 'puma racing' forum post on pistonheads, always treat his input some scepticism)

 

Cheers

John

 

 

[Henry Yorke 269 3 Cars]

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=151464

 

It sounds more like a brown multiplug issue to me. You may have knocked it when trying to pull the top off the oil filler

[johnhenry 20]

i have removed the brown multiplug previously ages ago due to it being a constant source of issues!

 

Also - i have now started having the battery light come on during driving (will be making a thread in a bit about it too) it flickers on and off - so this to me suggest a wiring connection rather than a fault with a component.

 

Sounds to be like a should go through and check connectors on all components in that area? as the alternator, regulator, both oil related sensors are all very close in that area and all seem to be playing up :S ???

[jackherer 543]

If you're getting a low reading on the gauge AND the warning light you can be pretty sure you have low oil pressure as they are driven by separate senders.

 

 

When you say the battery light is coming on is this at idle? If so it might just be idling a little too low.

[johnhenry 20]

urgh, so it's low pressure then. Bugger, will be getting a new filter and some better oil tomorrow, see if that makes a difference,

if not, and its still a really low pressure - whats likely to be causing the low pressure in there? oil pump? would using a different oil help?

 

 

Battery issues - is it all over the rev range not at idle, it flickers on and off, can be dim as well as bright, suggesting to me an electrical connection?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Don;t use Mobil oil's, its the only mainstream oil I've had issues with, Filters with the engine running unless blocked should not make a difference but as JH has said oil pressure and the oil low work on 2 different senders.

 

Filters thou always use OE

[bondyshambles 23 1 Cars]

To quote Anthony

 

"Applying logic to French wiring gremlins is like trying to apply logic to female thought process".

 

I had an issue where the guage was reading fine before i did a small job on the car. Then when i took the car out the guage would sit fine at idle but then drop to zero when accelerating. The car felt the same and it scared the s*** out of me. Turned out that the wire was still on the connector but obviously i had knocked it. This maynot be of any help to you but its a simple check and it fixed my problem. Even if wiring looks ok double check it.

[johnhenry 20]

What are the causes of low oil pressure? oil pump? its an engine thats only done 500 miles on it, so im a tad baffled

 

okay so my jobs for the day:

> get an OE filter

> fiddle around with the wiring in that area, and use contact cleaner

> order a better oil - maybe an oil that is slightly thicker when really hot? 10w30 or 10W50? i have no idea which means thicker, i think 30?

Edited August 8, 2013 by johnhenry

[welshpug 1,661]

you shouldn't need anything other than a good bog standard 10w40, my local motorfactor does Comma for about £20 iirc, I've had no issues at all, other than that I have also used Total Classic 10W40 from a Citroen dealer as they had it on special a few years back, £30 for 20 litres, always worth asking what they have in bulk trade deals you could get the Quartz stuff if you wanted

 

I've used countless MANN filters over the years without any issues.

Edited August 8, 2013 by welshpug

[johnhenry 20]

thanks WP - bassets citroen said they only have 10w30 the other day when i went in, and lee & turner peugeot have a deal with castrol so do GTX there, was ideally after an manufacturers oil, will call up today, maybe venture into Lookers finally!

 

have also noticed a small oil leak from the oil cooler pipework from under one of the swaged joints, would this cause a drop in pressure? its not a massive leak, like theres a couple of drips from it from being stood last night?

 

EDIT - also seeing oil build up on the back of the engine suggesting a small leak from there too, again linking to earlier question

Edited August 8, 2013 by johnhenry

[welshpug 1,661]

BMF will suffice

 

I got that deal from warners in tewkesbury BTW, they do more motaquip and trade stuff.

 

a small leak shouldnt give a substantial pressure loss.

[johnhenry 20]

would be great if i can get away with bmf! got to scrap the subaru today as thats gone pop so thats a bridgend trip to sort it all out

 

okay, will my aims are to find and stop the leaks, source an OE filter just for my minds sake, theyre cheap enough, get some decent oil on the go, change that over. check connections and see if that makes a difference overall

 

what are the mechanical causes of low oil pressure by the way?

[welshpug 1,661]

big leaks, large bearing tolerances due to wear, poor oil choice, high oil temps, on some XU's a loose crank pulley bolt will cause it as the oil pump is not keyed in some instances and they rely on the clamping force of the Bolt.

[johnhenry 20]

big leaks, large bearing tolerances due to wear, poor oil choice, high oil temps, on some XU's a loose crank pulley bolt will cause it as the oil pump is not keyed in some instances and they rely on the clamping force of the Bolt.

mine is a keyed crank pulley thats off the list.

oil temp - its got a new 7 row oil cooler, it sits low in the car, kind of obscured by the bumper, might try and raise it up abit higher so it gets more driving air onto it.

Oil Choice - rectifying today/tomorrow

large bearing tolerances - its an engine with only 500 miles on the clock, have followed running in process, so in theory this is unlikely

Big leaks - i bloody hope not, will try and have a look at the car over the day or so for leaks

[S@m 156]

mine is a keyed crank pulley thats off the list.

oil temp - its got a new 7 row oil cooler, it sits low in the car, kind of obscured by the bumper, might try and raise it up abit higher so it gets more driving air onto it.

Oil Choice - rectifying today/tomorrow

large bearing tolerances - its an engine with only 500 miles on the clock, have followed running in process, so in theory this is unlikely

Big leaks - i bloody hope not, will try and have a look at the car over the day or so for leaks

 

The crank pulley is always keyed, Welshpug is refering to the oil pump drive sprocket which often isn't keyed and relies on the clamping force of the crank pulley bolt - just to clarify.

[johnhenry 20]

The crank pulley is always keyed, Welshpug is refering to the oil pump drive sprocket which often isn't keyed and relies on the clamping force of the crank pulley bolt - just to clarify.

ah got it! Where do i have to look to check this? in the sump i guess

[welshpug 1,661]

depends on engine type, what is it?

[johnhenry 20]

1.9 8 valve, standard engine, had a DKZ bottom end, but is a d6b (coil fitted to suspension strut)