[Car_Overhaul] One Thing Leads To Another..

[Kane 34]

Do you know how precise it has to be Kieran? Is it a case of 1mm out could throw the idle way out? The cable is slack at rest so don't think that needs adjusting.

[jackherer 543]

The correct position is quite small, a little too far one way and it wont click or too far the other way and it will hold the throttle slightly open. With the bolts loose turn it until it just clicks and no further then tighten the bolts. Then open and close the throttle a couple of times to check it still clicks.

[Kane 34]

I would say that is what I've done but I'll have another look at it over the weekend to confirm. Cheers

[jackherer 543]

It could be a worn throttle body, what exactly is it doing wrong now? Too high? Too low? Different every time?

[Kane 34]

Too high. Before I had adjusted it this evening it was idling around 2k from cold then dropped to 1600 when warm. Now after adjusting the TPS tonight it idles between 2500-3k when cold, I never ran it long enough to see what it was like when hot.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

Kane,

 

I think I have a TPS around here somewhere I'll try and dig it out over the weekend.

 

Mine was idling to high around 1400 (warm), TPS made little difference to me, got new AFM now idles at 1000-1100, which I hope to get down with a good tune up.

[Kane 34]

That'd be great Paul, worth a try switching it out if I can't get it to run at a reasonable level by adjusting it. If you find one could you drop me a PM when you get a chance? Thanks

[Kane 34]

Managed a couple of hours out at the car today. Adjusted the clutch cable as I'd overtightened it earlier in the week so the biting point was way too high, that's now sorted so clutch control is a lot smoother.

 

Next job was to attempt to fix my idling issues. Adjusting the TPS improved the idle to roughly where it was previously (1600rpm when warm) but any further adjustment would prevent the throttle switch from closing. Now I noticed that if you physically push down on the throttle cable bracket the idle drops ever so slightly so it would seem that the return spring on the throttle body is worn and as a result the throttle body isn't fully closing at idle.

 

I'm currently trying to source a replacement throttle body and TPS in the mean time but I'm considering fitting a gti6 inlet and throttle body instead, firstly for the improvement in performance and secondly the availability of parts that aren't worn. What's the general opinion on this modification, worth while or should I just try to source a decent mi16 throttle body?

 

Once I'd got it all put back together I decided to go out for a run as I'm still in the running in stages of the engine so want to clock up some miles. The engine feels great, wants to rev and picks up very well. After 40 or so miles mildly thrashing it about the country roads all temps etc were as they should be so headed back to the house. The only issue that I noticed was the speedo cable must be slightly loose at the gearbox end as it dropped off every now and then, easy fix though so nothing to worry about.

 

Next on the agenda is to get out and give it a proper clean as it's looking very tatty! Can anyone recommend any cleaning, waxing and trim care products for the winter before I go and scour the depths of detailing world?

 

Cheers

 

Kane

[jackherer 543]

That does sound like a worn TB and I suppose that combined with the TPS would explain why the idle was so high before. Try pressing on the linkage between the two throttle butterflies, I've seen a few where pressing that pulls everything tight and temporarily drops the idle to where it should be.

 

A GTI6 inlet is probably a good move, all the MI16 bodies seem to have issues now. All you really need to do is make a bracket for the TPS to fit and do something about the dowels.

[Kane 34]

I'll give that a try when I next get out, thanks Kieran. I've managed to source some parts from Paul (mrfirepro) so should be arranging a courier to collect some time next week. If in the end it doesn't improve my problem it's not the biggest loss as I am fairly sure I'll be going down the 6 inlet route, just need to source some parts now. Wanted pages incoming

 

Just a quick one, is there any setting up issues when using the 6 inlet or is it a case of bolt on and away you go?

[jackherer 543]

I haven't fitted one myself yet but I don't think you'll need to set anything up apart from maybe the idle position. There are a few fiddly things that stop it being literally bolt on, you need to make the TPS bracket and do something about the dowels like I said before and also you need to think about the induction hose to the AFM, breathers and the oil filler hose.

[Kane 34]

I've had a quick browse through SweetBadger's how to guide and it seems relatively straight forward. I think getting it to look tidy will be the challenging part what with the mix match breathers etc. It shouldn't make too much a difference with my situation as I'm currently using oil filler pipes from anything and everything I could lay my hands on at the time of the install so it isn't the neatest.

 

I'll go do a little more research to give myself an idea of everything that's needing done so I'm not left scratching my head when I actually get round to fitting it on the car.

[S@m 156]

Its definitely a worthwhile swap but you'll have seen my opinion already if you looked at Sweetbadgers thread.

[Kane 34]

Received a replacement TPS in the post kindly donated by Paul (mrfirepro) at the tail end of last week and managed to get out tonight to fit it and see if that was the cause of my idling woes. It looks to have made some improvement! Previously my idle from cold was roughly 2k which then dropped down to approx. 1.6k when warm. First start up from cold tonight saw it sat around the 1.6k mark, I never stayed out long enough to warm it up but first impressions seems good Thanks very much for your help Paul!

 

Not really an exciting part to the update but I'd picked up a cheapo boot cover the other day to put over the top of the original leather one. The original isn't in the best state at the moment so this should offer a little more protection to the boot floor from all my tools rattling about and may offer a little more sound protection from the drainpipe of an exhaust that is currently on the car

 

 

When driving down the road on Friday last week I was caught in traffic for some time and because my heater is that crap it couldn't blow the skin off the top of a custard I opened the window to prevent everything from steaming up. It was when I had the window opened I noticed a tapping noise coming from the engine. When out at the car tonight I took a quick video to record the sound, it's a hell of a rattle. Here's the video >>

 

http://vid1288.photobucket.com/albums/b491/KHarrison31905/20141117_184954_zpsuypm2a73.mp4

 

Its coming from the top of the engine, sounds like it could be a noisy bucket that has either seized or isn't filling correctly. I did refurbish the buckets when I had the engine stripped according to PeterT's website, could I have not filled the buckets correctly when reassembling and this could be causing this? My other worry is that it could be very fine valve/piston clash it does sound as though it is just coming from inside that cam cover as opposed to right inside the engine.

 

Any thoughts? If it is the buckets at fault what would be the procedure to try and fix this? Or if it is valve/piston clash (I f*cking hope not!) would fitting a thicker head gasket be the solution?

 

Anyway, here are a couple of photo's after this evenings work (excuse the grubby appearance she's one dirty bitch at the moment)

 

 

 

[Kane 34]

Been reading up a little more on this tappy problem. I'm still on the 2nd lot of running in oil (mineral), done about 300 miles or so. I was going to move onto decent quality semi-synth when I surpassed 500 miles but could the cheap low quality oil in there now be where my problem lies? Is it possible for the lower grade oil to prevent the hydraulic buckets from filling properly and as a result make the top end tappy?

 

It seems strange as I didn't notice the tapping noise initially when I had started the car, it only seems to have gotten worse in recent days.

[mrfirepro 127 1 Cars]

glad the TB was a help....

 

My engine make a little bit of a rattle sound (similar to yours), had a problem with the tensioner and the cam belt jumped a little bit when I started it for the first time. Once sorted it seems to run OK though, so finger crossed I've done no damage.

[Kane 34]

The TPS worked a treat Paul thanks again! I don't think it is quite perfect yet but hopefully that should all be smoothed out once I replace the intake system with a GTi-6 setup.

 

I'll try pop the cover off next time I'm out and double check that everything is tight as it should be. I've checked previously but it couldn't hurt going over it again. Here's hoping nothing too bad has gone wrong!

[Kane 34]

Been out at the car this week after work trying to give it a proper clean as I don't think its seen a wash in well over a year! It hasn't been the easiest of processes as I've got the car in the communal car park at my flat which doesn't have any external taps so I've been having to humph several buckets back and forth

 

Now I'm a complete novice to detailing so haven't bothered going out and buying any fancy products straight away. I thought I'd give it a go with what i had in the garage at my old mans first to see how I got on.

 

Here's a quick few photos before I started, sorry about the piss poor photos only had my phone to hand.

 

 

 

 

After a clean and t-cut, still have to do the valances and below the side trim. Plan on tackling that tomorrow then another wash and wax.

 

 

 

Haven't had it out for a proper run since changing the tps so hopefully the 100+ mile journey back down the road on Friday goes smoothly.

 

Couple of jobs next on the list of priorities are an oil change and try and fix my heater as its proving to be a nightmare driving in the cold weather. Reminds me all too well of my old mini!

[Anthony 1,003]

Looks much better

 

I remember the pain that was oily hand prints staining the paint on my old white 205 (Ph1.5 like yours, so the earlier creamy Alpine white) - used to look just like yours did after doing engine swaps and the like, and left you spending ages having to remove them with a polish with a bit of cut. I'm assuming the paint is unlacquered hence the issue, as I never had it on lacquered 205's.

 

I now own a black 205 that hides the oily hand prints

[Kane 34]

Yeah I don't think it is lacquered Anthony, bloody nightmare to keep clean! Think when I get round to painting the car I will be considering something darker

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

I once had a rattly noise from the top of my Mi, it was one of the cam sprocket bolts had come loose and worked its way out, the noise was the big washer rattling round on the bolt.

I was lucky and checked in time and got away with it, loctited it back into place, and did the other cam as well whilst there.

[Kane 34]

Do you mean the main pulley bolts Tom? I've got a fairly long drive tomorrow so might whip the belt cover off and double check.

 

It does sound more pronounced from inside the cam cover itself, could it possibly be one of the small Allen bolts come loose on one of the main cam caps?

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Yes pulley bolts. To be honest if it were mine I wouldn't run it until I'd found the problem let alone drive it.....

[Kane 34]

Just been out to have a look but no luck. I've had the belt cover off and quickly checked over the pulley bolts, both seemed to be ok. I then popped off the cam cover and visually everything seems ok. Checked all the cam cap bolts and they're all tight.

 

The sound is definitely originating from the top of the head, does this point to a sticky lifter? If so is there any way to check whether it is a dodgy lifter?

 

As mentioned I'm still on the running in mineral oil and am going to be changing that in the next week or so. Could the poor oil grade be an attributing factor?

[Kane 34]

Managed to knock up a diy leak down tester the other day and checked the engine this morning. Looks as though I do have some bent valves unfortunately so the next step is to strip down the head and get them sent off to be checked.

 

Hopefully they all won't have been bent but will just have to wait and see. Can anyone recommend a shop that sells replacement valves? Also is there any brands that I should avoid?

 

Cheers