Fix Leaky Sump.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

Every 205 I've seen or worked on has had a leaky sump.

My resto Cti Is leaking already and I've not even been out in it, so its either damaged or I'm starting to think its just because it's French and crap like most other parts on the car.

I tried many times in the past with new gaskets or with / without gasket maker, and it always eventually starts to leak at the join at the back edge.

My thinking is that the expansion of the two different metals (steel sump / ally block) expand at different rates as the engine warms up causing the seal to break.

 

So I bought an Ally sump to try my theory out, only mines a 1.6 engine without a spacer and the ally sump is too shallow for the oil pick up (as I found out last night).

Before I waste any more money on this project that I'm at the end of my tether with, will an ally sump (with spacer) on a 1.6 xu 8 valve fix the damn oil leak for good?

also whats the best gasket combo for the sandwich of block/spacer/sump.

i.e. 2 gaskets , all gasket maker or 1 gasket between the sump and spacer with gasket maker between the block and spacer?

 

[Anthony 1,003]

Alloy sumps are generally easier to seal, but even they're not always simple as you've two surfaces to leak through.

 

Personally, I find that properly degreasing it and using a good quality RTV sealant tends to do the job, leaving it 24 hours to set before refilling with oil. Biggest issue doing it with the engine in the car is oil running down the inside of the block and contaiminating the mating surfaces before the sealant has cured, so try to clean up as much of the oil inside the block as you can.

 

(you'll need different bolts for the alloy sump and spacer, compared to your current 1.6 sump btw)

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

If you stick with the steel sump, use a gasket, with STAG Wellseal sealer, no more leaks.

 

Anthony is also spot on with regards to oil running down and contaminating the sealant. If poss take the sump off and leave it off for as long as you can (e.g. days not hours) then wash down the inside with brake cleaner or similar to get the mating surfaces clean dry and oil free.

[petert 588]

Try some ThreeBond 1211. Apply a light smear to each surface. Do the spacer first and let it cure with some dummy bolts. Then remove bolts, except the two cap screws, and fit the sump the same way.

 

1211 was designed for motorcycle gearboxes. Guarenteed overkill on a 205 sump.

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

It's all about being clean and oil free.

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

I have 25~off, M7x30 hex hd bolts, new to fix the ally sump on.

They would have been long enough without the spacer for most holes as they are through holes in the block. But will they still be long enough with a spacer?

It looks like I'll need a few cap head M7 screws around thee oil filter though, they might be a bit special and hard to get hold of .

[joshsnoad 2]

Just a thought, vw use their own special sealer on their sumps, which I have never had leak after replacing the sump. It's pretty expensive though, about £25 a tube. Maybe worth a go, especially considering its a sealant made specially for sealing sumps. Never used on a 205 though

[welshpug 1,661]

I've used wurth, loctite, elring and Nissan sealants without problem, its about the prep as mentioned.

 

got some Wynn's stuff at the mo from the local motorfactor which seems to do the job just fine.

 

Never thought about using wellseal, but makes sense, can't find my tube of that sticky goop anywhere!

[DamirGTI 342]

As well as prep. and good sealant , tightening the bolts properly helps ..

 

I quit using torque wrench for sump bolts (on all types/car brands), and instead , i do them up wit an electric cordless hand drill with small socket extension hooked on .. in circular or diagonal pattern , bolt by bolt until the drill clutch starts to slip - done .

 

D

[2052NV 24]

THREEBOND EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[welshpug 1,661]

Dont recall seeing any threebond automotive stuff anywhere in the uk