Central Locking Controller.

[Mr_Frosty 1 1 Cars]

Hey all just wanted to know if the Central locking control unit in the drivers door is the same on a phase 2 as a phase 1.

I have a phase one and the only one I can find is from a phase two. (mine is white and the one I've found is black.)

Come down to it being this as the drivers door still locks but the boot and passenger door don't any more, also the passenger door won't lock with the key as it's too stiff to push down. (for now just disconnected the actuator rod.)

 

Drivers door actuator works OK when connected straight to 12v supply.

Thanks for reading.

[Anthony 1,003]

Nope, Phase 1/1.5 and Phase 2 items are different and not compatible I'm afraid - from memory, it pops the fuse when you plug it in.

[Mr_Frosty 1 1 Cars]

Thanks for the quick reply.
Well that's not the best news. Can't seem to find one from a phase one.

 

Will get a picture up today or tomorrow because the one I have has two plugs going into it and one I've found on fleebay also has two.

[Mad Professor 7]

From memory both types have a 3pin & 2pin connector.
The phase one only uses 4pins in total, where the phase 2 used all 5.
Also the Phase one central locking unit in the drivers door, has all the control circuit, where the phase 2 is a dumb unit, and only had two switches and the motor.

 

The central locking has stopped working on my 205 GRD, so this weekend if it's not raining, I will be pulling out the drivers door central locking unit.

[bondyshambles 23 1 Cars]

As Anthony said...I have a phase 1.5 with a grey unit. Tried to replace it with a black 3 pin unit but it kept blowing the 25 amp fuse for interior light, radio etc. Try and find the correct 2 pin one (in the larger block).

[Mad Professor 7]

I have been working on the GRD today, to track down the intermittent fault with the central locking.
I can confirm the fault is also with the drivers side grey (Vachette) central locking unit.

 

Can anyone please tell me where I can get a NEW replacement unit?

 

Best Regards.

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

Peugeot

[Mad Professor 7]

Can anyone confirm what is the right part number for the phase 1 grey (Vachette) central locking unit.

 

I have found the following part numbers.

655118 - £115.91

661501 - £94.97

661502 - £45.36

662001 - £149.40

[hennasxi 0 1 Cars]

Hi, i am sure bumping old threads is probably frowned upon, but I've only just found this and I have just repeated the same error having acquired a replacement which turns out to be a phase 2 with 3 pins rather than the earlier grey 2 pin one, and yes the 25 amp fuse pops !

 

I've opened up my old grey one and the fault is the little timed relay inside is not operating - if I operate it manually it works and sends the relevant 12v polarity to the other doors and all is well. I am going to have a go at repairing the old one.

 

It looks like no one was able to confirm the correct part number out of the options above - i guess this is a part that may still be available new ?

 

If I work out how to fix the original I will post the answer here.

[toolie72 67 1 Cars]

I bought a hawk remote central locking set from eBay, new, cost pennies and actuators fit as per originals

However I am in the north of Scotland with little/no car crime-don't know how hard it would be to overcome remotes

Mines phase 1.5, blew fuses too-kept looking for damaged cables until I worked out unit was wrong lol

[hennasxi 0 1 Cars]

I have managed to make one good unit out of two failed ones now - one had a faulty timer relay (can't repair), the other had a faulty microswitch which I have repaired, so back to standard working OEM central locking. Like the idea of fitting a remote central locking kit though so will look into that next time it goes wrong !

[Pug205GRDT 0]

Hello. Don't know if I should start a new thread. I have an old 205 GRDT 1993 which has just passed its MOT for another year (needs some paint work at some point). It's central locking failed around 2016 so I thought I'd open the drivers side door to find I have the phase 1.5 grey 4-pin actuator (same as the GTI I believe?). The 5 pin ones off E-bay will not work even though the middle pin isn't used.

 

I changed most of the pink/green relays a few years ago when everything just died on the dash and it bought everything back and the old fuses look OK in the fuse box - none of the 25A ones have blown as the fuse-wire line is at the top of the fuse which doesn't look broken. I think the central locking fuse is held in the fuse box in the glove box? The central locking has been temperamental for years though; usually working after a long drive but the car has had a new battery as the old water-plate one was taken out in 2016 too.

 

I found the correct actuator off E-bay but that one made a loud wearing noise and opened/closed all doors once and not again. I swapped my old one back which seemed to work once but didn't make any loud noises so both probably on the way out....does anyone know how to make one from 2 or even open it up for starters? Someone in this thread managed to do it?

 

Any ideas? Besides the central locking; the car does need cleaning/de-rusting which will be the next little job as it's starting to look a bit tatty now.

 

Thanks.

 

 

[toolie72 67 1 Cars]

I had the same issue, cut actuator open and fecked it! A hawk remote central locking kit from eBay fits (can’t remember model no) actuator fits straight on door-box for remote in mine is fitted in the door

iirc it was cheaper than a second hand one of eBay and I’ve had no issues other than the guess the wiring layout

However I can not verify the security aspect of the remote side of the central locking as I’m not a thief lol

[Pug205GRDT 0]

OK. I guess I should be thankful that the only thing wrong with her is some rust and a faulty actuator. 

 

Strange that it fires up when I plug it in fresh but not again for both of them. I did disconnect the battery as that used to fire the up the central locking but I didn't hear anything this time around? Am I missing something else?

 

Last year the silly garage broke the steering column and had the middle dash out when the hazard button didn't work (I just replaced the fuse for them).

 

Not sure if the broken dashboard (now fixed) and the middle dash near the hazard light has any wires that feed the central locking?

 

Thanks

[Pug205GRDT 0]

Hi everyone. One last try. I've tried 3 different grey actuators in my Pug 205 GRDT front drivers side door - all seem to fire up the central locking
when I connect it but nothing after that no matter if I put the locks up/down manually and disconnect the battery. I don't hear the central
locking fire up when re-connecting the battery like I used to do years ago.

 

What am I missing?

Someone has suggested a control box is under the steering column, a later one is black the earlier ones are grey/beige (the rectangular black boxes
are on E-bay).
 

Lindsey Porter Colour Manual - Section 13-20 has this:

There are 2 types of control unit for the central locking system: Earlier cars have a dedicated control unit situated at the base of the B-
post - (where's this??). This can be accessed for replacement by disconnecting the battery, removing the right hand front seat, the B-post
trim panel and the lower seat belt mounting. Lift the carpet to expose the control unit.

The more recent control unit for the central locking system is part of the built-in Systems interface (BSI), situated under the fascia (where's
this??). This device controls a range of electrical equipment and is NOT user serviceable beyond replacing any of the six surface mounted fuses if
they fail.

 

 

Question: Any fuses/relays in odd-places besides the dashboard that need changing? If anyone could provide pictures for the above that would be great. I can't see anything
under the steering wheel but I may need to get the garage to open it up. Or something might have been left out when my steering bar needed to be replaced.

 

Thanks

Harry