Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
TheReaperWaits

Sticking Brakes....

Recommended Posts

TheReaperWaits

Howdy folks,

 

Straight to the point. The brakes have started to stick on my standard 1.9. When cold they are fine, but they slowly grip on more and more the warmer the car gets (coincidence?). The brake pedal slowly gets harder until there is very little movement and the brakes are on hard.

 

I took it to a garage for a free brake test and they found no problems. I have put in a brand new master cylinder and I still get the issue. I can't imagine a defective caliper would cause this? (then again I'm still learning). Only thing left would be the servo. I was thinking the air line that runs from it?

 

Looking for some experienced input as extra heads are always welcomed.

 

Cheers. :)

Edited by TheReaperWaits

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TooMany2cvs

Front flexis could be dying internally and acting as a one-way valve. When they're locked on, undo the bleed nipple, and see if fluid comes out under pressure, freeing the brake off.

 

I dunno 1.9 front brakes, but if they're single piston sliding yoke calipers, make sure they're clean and copaslipped up so they can slide easily.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

Its usually all the old crap and rust thats formed on the caliper pistons as its pushed out over time because the pads have worn down. when you put in shiny new pads you have to push the pistons back in along with all this crap still stuck to it. the crap gets trapped between the piston outer wall and the rubber seal and traps hence brakes stick on. solution take the calipers off one at a time and press the brake pedal slowly until the piston comes all the way out then clean it up, take out the caliper seal carefully and clean that and its guide that it sits in and a bit of brake fluid to make it slippy push it back in bleed brakes after

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

I have braided hoses all round. Garage checked these and they were fine. Was the garages first guess.

 

Would this 'rust and stuff' leave the brakes running fine after I leave the car to cool down? Anything is worth a shot ATM.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Find which brake is causing the problem, go for a drive and feel which wheel is warmest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

Yes as the car warms up or brakes are used and warm up rather the brake fluid/metal parts will expand pressing out the piston and bind the brake shoes, i've had glowing disks in the past due to this problem. If you can remove the pads and press the pedal to push the piston out you can check the condition of the piston walls without popping them completely out and a good dousing of brake cleaner could save a stripdown job but dont use wd40 and lubricate with brake fluid and nothing else. If theres crap contaminating the caliper seal the problem will return again in time

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
glenwah

Sounds to me like the master cylinder is the issue here not allowing expanded fluid to evacuate the system, if it was calipers they would be seized hot or cold.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

All the wheels feel like a lot of heat is coming from them. Certainly smells hot from both the front wheels. Definately feels like more than one is sticking (if not all).

 

Thanks for the replies. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
glenwah

Master cylinder for sure. Sounds like the piston isn't returning to its original position and keeping the fluid under pressure then as it warms and expands it puts the brakes on even harder hence feeling free when cold and binding when hot.

Edited by glenwah
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Repeat the symptoms then loosen the 2 13mm nuts, if it frees up you need to adjust the servo pushrod

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Will give that a go tomorrow when work doesn't get in the way. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Okay, got her warmed up... Switched her off as those nuts are closer than I want to be to the belt. Loosened the two nuts holding the master cylinder on. Heard a hiss of air then the car started to roll forward.

 

Is that the result you were expecting?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

Yup, you need to adjust the pushrod, the measurement and method is in the haynes manual, out at the mo so havent got it to hand!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Got my copy on the car. Will have a flick through and try to find it. Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Found a section about maintaining and replacing the servo with a diagram. Didn't find a method of adjusting it. The replacement servo I brought has arrived so I could get a closer look to how it works.

 

Adjusting would be done via the screw in the centre?

 

Does this screw move over time? Trying to figure out why this started in the first place.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Finally got some time to myself and the car...

 

Upon removing the master cylinder I noticed it was dripping brake fluid from around the rubber washer... Is this normal?

 

I like pictures, so here.

 

post-22034-0-73897600-1366303038_thumb.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Got the old servo out. (What a pain.. No idea how I'm going to get the new one in). It had quite a bit of brake fluid inside, so I went ahead and ordered a new MC. Will get a refund on this one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

More free time...

 

Got the pedals and the replacement servo back in. New master cylinder is in with brake lines connected.

 

Having a bit of trouble getting the reservoir in the MC is there a trick to getting those in? Or is it in far enough?

 

(Images attached).

post-22034-0-12343500-1367252056_thumb.jpg

post-22034-0-45327400-1367252084_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

No, lubricate it with a spot of brake fluid round the rubber then good old fashioned elbow grease wiggle it side to side with firm pressure on top should go in all the way with a bit of persuasion

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bondo

You do need an alarming amount of pressure to reseat the reservoir.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Bringing this back up as I have had more time to work on it.

 

Still cant get that res to go in. The plastic is flexing with amount of jiggling/force. There must be something I'm not getting. I took the rubber seals out to make sure they fit. I can only get it in half way like the photos...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

Lubrication, lubrication, lubrication ............. is what ya need!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Gave up with that MC. Put my old one back on and got the reservoir on with just a bit of jiggling.

 

Problem I'm having now is trying to bleed the system. Doesn't look like pumping The peddle is pushing the fluid through.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Slo

Get yourself an easy bleed kit much easier. Are you sure that new mc is exactly the same?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
TheReaperWaits

Currently using an easy bleed with one way valve. The MC was the one I had on the vehicle during the sticking brakes troubleshooting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×