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chipstick

Torsion Bar Left In Tube

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chipstick

When a trailing arm is knocked from a tube and a torsion bar is left in the tube bracket, is it possible to hit the end of the bar to knock it through the 'cup' in the bracket the opposite side?

 

A picture tells a thousand words..

 

So here's what we're left with - the tube with the torsion bar stuck in the other end with the torsion bar stud sticking through what I've called the cup. It's the same as what's just to the right of the bar here:

 

B0AB95C1-9610-4A8C-A0F2-FC93750C3144-130

 

In fact here's a picture of the cup I speak of on the clear side.

 

1B0C5BB7-F7BF-472A-94B1-C237ACDC0B90-130

 

I'd like to know if it's recommended to hit the torsion bar through this cup as my finger demonstrates thus pushing it out.

 

Are they replaceable? They look like they should be but rather than be heavy handed and find out they aren't supposed to be knocked through it's worth asking :lol:

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Anthony

Not really - that end piece is threaded in place, so you won't be able to hit the bar through.

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Daviewonder

The 'cup' unscrews mate. I just knocked mine round using a hammer and chisel and replaced it with a new one. I assume they're still available new?

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Anthony

They are, but getting them out can often be pretty much impossible - fine thread, 25 years odd exposure and little in the way of purchase.

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chipstick

Fiddlesticks.

 

Considering there's a torsion bar screw sticking through the end of it it's going to be a nightmare to remove. Hmm.

 

I'd rather save the bars than I would the tube if theres a preferable way to overcome this situation.

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Tom Fenton

Before you smash the living daylights out of the threaded plug, I'd put the trailing arm back on and then use a puller to try and pull the bar out of the fixed end. Usually the bar is seized in the trailing arm end rather than the fixed end though.

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welshpug

wind the screw all the way in, then bash the bar towards the cap, once it has started moving but before you smack the bar through the cap, dump lots of penetrating oil down the splines and see if it will move the other way.

 

failing that, do this

 

28-05-08_1856.jpg

 

28-05-08_1901.jpg

 

28-05-08_1902.jpg

 

A few minutes with a decent sharp cold chisel got that sorted, new cup is available.

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chipstick

I had the bright idea of pushing the arm back on and fitting the offset washer and screw back in - then knock the arm off again to pull the bar through with it. But this resulted in the screw pulling out of the end so that's going to need tapping at some point. Luckily it looks salvageable and hasn't completely ripped them out.

 

Due to that I can't really fashion a puller into that end. And after the beating it needed from Stef to get it apart in the first place I imagine I'd be shearing bolts to try and pull the bugger apart.

 

Anthony - when I spoke to you about Xsara beams back along and you laughed saying they were often stuck together - I see where you're coming from :lol:

 

I think I will try the chisel idea next. It looks fairly thin and malleable with rage.

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Alastairh

As said, put the arm back on. I use the big shock absorber bolt in reverse, aim for that with a sledge. Bolt the arm to the torsion bar with a selection of thick washers and wind a m8 bolt in as much as possible. Use heat if you have to on the seized end. This has worked for me a few times.

 

 

If you need a new cup, i should have a few new spare, but i would avoid it if you have to.

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chipstick

Had to resort to cup removal. It was fairly soft so with some persuasion and a chisel it eventually undid.

 

A99C57C4-7DE8-41E1-AFF2-D8957562CE3C-227

 

So with that out, after much percussive persuasion the bar was released. I failed to realise that end was the thinnest so it needed to then be knocked back through. But with cleaned splines it didn't take a huge amount of effort. Altgough I did chose an extension as a drift which didn't appear to be a good choice.

 

Left me with this:

 

4D3FE693-608A-498C-BF6F-82A9C4D5E809-227

 

Inner threads are fine. Salvageable with a tap?

 

Lessons learnt.

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Dizzee stuff

looks just like the end damaged ,the inner threads look ok. you might just get away with counter-sinking the end if you don't have a tap.

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chipstick

Yeah the threads are fine. I don't have a countersunk bit either :lol: so I will buy/borrow a tap set and see what happens :)

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Dizzee stuff

Not ideal but could try a large drill bit if your in a hurry.

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stef205

Drop it off with the rest of your stuff you animal! I'll tap it out for you.

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