Cambelt, Tensioner And Water Pump

[Projectuno 7]

My car is due a cambelt change due to age not mileage, as it is now over 5 years since it was last done.

 

For reference, my car is a 1991 205 1.6 GTi

 

I have two main questions that I would appreciate some advice on:

 

1.

How many teeth should a cambelt have for my car? 113 or 114?

Does anyone have a picture of the correct fitment tensioner and water pump?

 

I keep getting conflicting views on what is needed and want to get the correct parts before starting the job.

 

2.

Does anyone live in south bucks or near by who has done this before on a 205 GTi who could help me on this job (I'll pay for your time of course) or perhaps you can recommend a garage who can do this?

[ORB 227 1 Cars]

You will need to see what tensioner you have on the block.

 

On a Cam belt job, I do them on a day when factors are open, so I can go get the correct bits when I have removed them. So, take it off and count teeth and get correct tensioner.

 

I have had phase 1.5 & 2's with both tensioner types.

[Mr_Frosty 1 1 Cars]

Hello I've just done the Cam belt and water pump on my car last weekend. (1986 1.6 xu5ja)

 

Tensioner

Water pump

 

(Hope the links worked)

 

I still have the parts but wont be able to get pictures until Monday. I will also try and count the teeth on the belt.

If I remember rightly the alternator has a large bolt holding it at the top. (I didn't have the right spanner with me used a pipe wrench) also the crank pulley was pretty tight on. (don't lose the woodruff key)

 

I'd happily give you a hand if I were closer. Worst bit was getting the new tensioner in as the dam spring kept springing (as springs do ) cable ties helped with this. Also the one bolt holding the cam belt cover facing the bulkhead. (couldn't find it )

 

The way I used to get the tensioner into "slack" position was to undo the tensioner holding pin/cam so I could move it with my fingers then push the tensioner in with an extension bar then reach around and move holding pin/cam to hold the tensioner. Don't really need to lock the cam or crank just some dabs of paint where you can see them then turn engine over by hand first to check they line up again.

[pug_ham 244 3 Cars]

You should need the 113 tooth belt, very few 1.6 GTI's (if any) have the eccentric roller which takes the 113 tooth belt but to check quickly, does your car have a metal upper cambelt cover or plastic one because the covers changed between the two but the change over date wasn't until 1992, not that its an exact science with Peugeot though.

 

I'm sure there are a few people near you in Bucks that would be able to help out with a cambelt etc change but if you are at all handy with the spanners it isn't anywhere as difficult as garages liked to make out when the 205 GTI was a common sight on the roads.

 

Even if you have a plastic upper cover, you can also check if the spring tensioner is fitted by reaching down the back of the block just underneath the exhaust manifold (best done with a cold engine & switched off) on the cambelt side flange for the tensioner cam locknut.

 

this topic might help.

 

g

[tartanbloke 35 1 Cars]

I'd happily give you a hand if I were closer. Worst bit was getting the new tensioner in as the dam spring kept springing (as springs do ) cable ties helped with this. Also the one bolt holding the cam belt cover facing the bulkhead. (couldn't find it )

 

 

That was really easy as all you need is a water pump pliers, which will take all of 60 seconds to compress and add the bolts. Hope this helps for future reference.

Chris