[Race_Prep] Batfinks Garage - The Projects

[Batfink 201]

Another day in the workshop. I finished the twingo rear diffuser prep for making a mould. The border will give me a smooth surface for vacuum bagging.

 

It's had a few layers of release agent so it's ready for the gel coat

 

Dropped the front and rear suspension off the 205. Only a few more bolts to come off and it's ready

 

 

With the beam off you can certainly feel play in the inner bearings due to the incorrect bolt and trailing arm movement. I guess it's lucky I'm replacing it with a 205 beam. I want 8x15" wheels under the arches. I'm going to have to roll out the rear quarter panel. Hopefully that will be enough.

[Batfink 201]

Dashboard out and wiring sorted on the laser green. The original dashboard was knacks red so I am going to have to replace it. Got the main body off Anthony but need the dial surround. I think we had wiring for three alarms and a horrific amount of electrical tape.

 

The 205 is now fully stripped. There's not a bolt or wire on it.

 

The diffuser has now had a couple of thin layers of gel coat and Saturday I will start laying the fibreglass. Only had one incident where I put 15% catalyst in by mistake and nearly set fire to the container lol

 

Justin's (kyepan) 205 had a long session to rebuild the head and time it up. A few hiccups along the way and a late night but its almost ready to fire up today. I think just the exhaust and a few bumper bits are left.

The motley crew

[Batfink 201]

First layer of fibreglass matting in place. Not the most fun tasks due to the shape

[Batfink 201]

Its stripped. Just a few final bits to do on the Audi Quattro thats going with it.

 

My mould is also finished. Will prise the original part from the mould on Saturday!

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

what back axle is that?

the mould looks awesome are you going to be making moulds for the 205?

[Batfink 201]

Its a 309 back axle with extended stub axles to allow use of rear coilovers. I plan to rebuild the bearings, revert it back to standard and flog it though as i need a smaller rear track width to accommodate wide tyres.

I'm making moulds for my 205 for certain. I've a few standard panels tucked away for future use

 

I finished the Twingo mould last week and sadly have a setback.

 

Basically the original renault part is so flimsy that its slightly distorted as I've made the mould. There is a twist. I had wood underneath to try and keep its shape but that didnt work. There is no way this part can be moulded without something to hold its shape perfectly. Even putting it down on a table you can see very minor flex in the plastic part. I've bitten the bullet and ordered a rear bumper. This should arrive this week and I will bolt the diffuser in place and start again. I'm hoping the diffuser is fully exposed so its an easy mould. If it sits inside the bumper then I'll have to make a two piece mould.

Edited June 24, 2013 by Batfink

[welshpug 1,661]

I wouldn't trust a renault bumper being particularly stiff without being bolted to a twingo

[Batfink 201]

Ha! That did occur to me lol

[Batfink 201]

Take two. One flimsy Renault part attached to another equals one semi rigid part

[Batfink 201]

I've also made some progress on the laser. The heater matrix has been fitted. Not the easiest of jobs when the new pipes are bent at completely the wrong angle. After cursing a lot I ended up getting them in a vice.

I filled the laser with water and its now holding water. The car now starts with the wiring sorted. I think the fan does not work though so I need to check the wiring there. Not a big job. Car drove out the unit under its own steam which is good!

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

are you able to make a mould form that part when its attached to the bumper then?

[Batfink 201]

yes. it sits completely proud of the bumper. I just need to run wax round the edge of the two parts and create an edge for the bottom part of the diffuser. This is actually much easier than moulding the original part separately as theres less prep needed.

[rallyeash 155]

I'll buy one of them rear diffusers if you can make me one?

[welshpug 1,661]

but you don't have a twingo

[rallyeash 155]

Nah but he said he can make a 205 one!

[Batfink 201]

I'd probably make a 205 one that actually works - getting the right angles and running under the car properly.

 

Picked up my new engine and gearbox.

 

Its certainly easier to maneuver than an XU engine, partially because it sits vertical rather than with the 30degree angle.

It will sit lower in the enginebay as its a shorter engine, 58cm high compared to 64 for a gti6 engine. I'm going to get it on the engine stand and see about making my own dry sump for it

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

are you going for this engine purely so you can mount it lower in the engine bay?

[Batfink 201]

Not really. To be honest once the sump is done the engines lowest point will be set roughly the height of the subframe. This will give maximum ground clearance. I can then get the whole car lower in theory. I will have to then possibly have to adjust for driveshaft clearance over the subframe. I'll find that all out when we test fit.
The reason for going this route is pure economics. I can run a nearly stock engine with throttle bodies and cams I have around 230bhp. Around £4k in total spend. I'll need a custom manifold which will add to the cost but its still massively cheaper than sticking with a Peugeot engine.

 

The other reason is to get it to race spec i can offset grind the crank to get it from 1795cc to 1750cc then run custom rods. I wont have to worry about valve sizing being wrong or needing to alter camshaft specs etc. as its such a minor capacity change.

Edited July 10, 2013 by Batfink

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

sounds complictated, ill await more progress

[Liquid_106 97 1 Cars]

Picked up my new engine and gearbox.

 

Possibly a cheeky question, but would you mind divulging how much you paid (roughly) for the engine & box and what sort of mileage does it have? Are you intending to run the Honda box and I assume customs shafts (unless you're using all home drive train?) or are you considering a be#/Honda hybrid gear box so you run Pug shafts & hubs?

 

I guess as you intend to run TBs, you'll be using stand alone management rather than than the Honda ECU & wiring harness?

 

Sorry for all the questions - loving the different engine route of this build

 

Edit: ignore me, gearbox is on the other side, doh!

Edited July 10, 2013 by Liquid_106

[Batfink 201]

The engine, gearbox, wiring loom, ecu and driveshafts cost me £2k. The ecu is probably useless as the original car has an immobiliser but i'd go DTA or similar anyway. I could use B16 ecu as these are cheap and easy to remap if I wanted but I dont really see any benefit to this..This one had done 86k mileage but the price I paid is around the going rate. Not cheap by any means. The plan is to modify the Honda shafts to get them to fit the pug hubs. As the engine runs in reverse to the pug engines I cannot use a BE gearbox.

You wouldnt want to really as this comes with a LSD as standard! Feels a little bit lighter as well but i'm yet to weigh it.

Will be going Jenvey bodies as these seem to get the best power.

Edited July 11, 2013 by Batfink

[Anthony 1,003]

How come you went what I'm assuming is a B18C rather than the more obvious K20 option Kev? Purely the capacity to make for an easier fit in competition classes?

[Batfink 201]

My engine choice is purely about what class I want to race in.

Class C is 1750-3500cc for the modified class which puts me up against seriously well tuned BMW M3's etc

Class D is up to 1750cc where I would be against Clio Cup racecars and Production Modified 2000-3500cc cars which are more restricted on modifications.

 

Plan is to destroke an engine to fit in class D. The B18c should be easier to do this to. I could possibly destroke a K20 engine but the valves etc will be too big i'd imagine. The other option would be to use the K20 or K24 and move into Class C, but then I might have to consider a turbo or supercharger option lol. I think realistically I'd need to build a 300bhp engine or thereabouts. With class D I think between 230-250bhp will do

 

Class D seems the better option in terms of budget, potential to win the class and potential to win the championship.

Edited July 11, 2013 by Batfink

[calvinhorse 870]

What series are you racing in?

[Batfink 201]

I want to race in euro saloons next year