Turbocharged Ew10J4

[Dimitaar 2]

Hi there . I am new to this forum but i am reading the post " Embrace The Ew! " for quite some time. I actually have 206 GTi with still stock EW10J4 .

For it i have already prepared :

2.2 (EW12J4) Inlet (here in Bulgaria it's difficult to find RC ), bigger 63 mm TB . I am thinking to polish e it inside this sunday What do you think about that ?

 

 

New engine management ( Megasquirt 2 Last hardware version Upgraded with military grade elements from me and one friend), bigger 440cc injectors , Garrett T2860 . I have also upgraded the gearbox rear tampon and braket

 

 

At the moment ( Hope to start in about a week stil waiting some bits to come ) i'll be installing the inlet, new 250cc injectors ,TB , Engine management ,Wideband controller gauge ( innovate ) , Oil pressue gauge , still waiting for boost meter to arrive . Wideband will be connected to management so i can have active AFR control.

I want to ask if someone knows the size of the burning chamber? So far i know if i am right that head holds 40cc i don't know if pistons come flat with the block or they have some offset. I want to calculate the exact thickness of the head gasket according to the boost pressure i am going to apply (About 0.5-0.6) . As for now i'll be running stock internals and in that line of thoughts they should hold 250 HP am i right ? I'll set my boost control so that i get boost later so i keep the rods safe .

 

Next i'm planing on Wiseco pistons and rods and replacing the differential or reinforcing it with ARP bolts. After that the plan is to get more boost

 

P.S.

Car has suspension and brake modes already now is only time for POWER I'll be very happy for your help After all i want to create a little guide for the people in Bulgaria .

In Bulgaria we have only one tuned 206 GTi an it is used for Rallying only ( pulls 460 HP with fuel additives, it's driven at 350. There is a 4x4 project starting now )

Edited February 1, 2013 by Dimitaar

[rallysteve 22]

I have also upgraded the gearbox rear tampon and braket

 

[Dimitaar 2]

Yep understand got it wrong Sorry for my language problems the term poped out of my head and in Bulgarian it's called Тампон I think the name was bushing .

Edited February 1, 2013 by Dimitaar

[calvinhorse 870]

Don't polish the throttle body (TB) it's a waste of time and has zero gains especially if you're turbo it

[Dimitaar 2]

And the inlet ?

I guess it wont have any diferance when i get to the turbo .

This week the car should be set as non turbo with the inlet, TB , injectors and get basic things to work with the new management

[Schumi 2]

I think 2.2 inlet to long for turbocharged cars. Still better than stock plastik inlet manifold. Please keep up.

[dudaionescu 2]

Put vernier pulleys on the list, as you'll be blowing unburnt gas off the exhaust.

250 HP with 0.5 bar is a bit of a challenge but let's see until the end. Just remember what a modern engine (EA888 2.0TFSI with direct injection, variable valve timing and lifting, K04 0.8 bar turbo so basically what EW10 will never have) can do...

[Dimitaar 2]

So now there are some updates what i have done.

 

[Dimitaar 2]

Also car was started on the new engine management :

Gear box is sent to be redone stronger bearings and diff ,

New rear linkages are on the way + new engine mounts. The new Inlet is going to be installed soon.

[Dimitaar 2]

342 cc/min injectors. VW idle valve. AEM wide-band controller/gauge . Protection circuit that i have made my self it turns on the gauge 3sec after the engine has started and have over current protection . Box for the electronics was made. And Painted no pics for the moment. Electrical installation was re warped . All internal dials working with aftermarket ECU ( including water temp and RPM ) Water temp was very hard to do because it's not straight forward signal it is PWM (pulse width modulation )

 

​ Can some one help with the advance table.

[Schumi 2]

What you did for water temp gauge ? Can you explain that ? Because we cant use water temp gauge in 206gti dashboard with ms3 ecu.

[Dimitaar 2]

What you did for water temp gauge ? Can you explain that ? Because we cant use water temp gauge in 206gti dashboard with ms3 ecu.

 

Well mate. I use a small pic controller (12F683) i watched what is happening with oscilloscope and saw that water temp is transferred true ECU to Gauges by PWM signal . Then i started testing with the pic to find what PWM i what Temperature the base frequency is about 100Hz . And after i got them all i started checking the diferent voltages on MS devider. after that i made a table of reference what voltage is what temp and then the temp is outputted as PWM . made some middle points so all can be smooth.

[Sandy 191]

Good work

[Schumi 2]

 

Well mate. I use a small pic controller (12F683) i watched what is happening with oscilloscope and saw that water temp is transferred true ECU to Gauges by PWM signal . Then i started testing with the pic to find what PWM i what Temperature the base frequency is about 100Hz . And after i got them all i started checking the diferent voltages on MS devider. after that i made a table of reference what voltage is what temp and then the temp is outputted as PWM . made some middle points so all can be smooth.

 

Thats amazing mate. Is it possible to share your pic code and circuit for that? I will be grateful.

[Dimitaar 2]

Yep. There is no problem when i get home. Just for info the MS divider voltage while vary according to the base resistor value . My resistors where 1002 om . If it is different the values in my code need to be changed i can try to remake it to be more universal and just change one value . Also it's needed to know the exact voltage that ms outputs to the TPS as i use the TPS 5V output for pic power. Quite alot of things but in the end the original dash works

[Schumi 2]

Yep. There is no problem when i get home. Just for info the MS divider voltage while vary according to the base resistor value . My resistors where 1002 om . If it is different the values in my code need to be changed i can try to remake it to be more universal and just change one value . Also it's needed to know the exact voltage that ms outputs to the TPS as i use the TPS 5V output for pic power. Quite alot of things but in the end the original dash works

 

Any news ?

[Dimitaar 2]

Sorry for the big delay i have my hands full . At the pic PIN GP2 is connected to the dashboard i am sorry i do not remember the exact pin but it goes to the ECU connector to directly on perplex cars. On multiplex cars it goes to the engine compartment controller box ( replacing the fuse box on the perplex) . Pin GP1 is used to connect to the input cable from the Temperature sensor. TPS power supply (VDD) is used to get the PIC powered ( IMPORTANT voltage on that pin should be noted when making reference in the temperatures and measured values on GP1) The voltage while be constant because of the internal voltage regulator should be little short of 5 volts ( My case 4.98V) . Ground can also be from TPS ground supply (VSS) . The internal resistor in MS is very important.

 

The value of the internal ADC (analog digital converter) can be calculated if all the parameters are known for example . The Voltage in all low power control circuits (sensors) is 5V (The same as on TPS because they are powered by internal voltage regulator) , so if we have 5V on Pin GP1 we get value appropriate to the maximum of the variable we used to get the ADC value . Rather complicated to explain if you are not familiar with programming. If we use unsigned integer the max value is 255 ( +0 ) i preferred to use long because i get more steps more detailed reading. The smaller the resistance of the Temp sensor the smaller the Voltage the smaller the ADC value . Then using PWM as the original scheme does signal is sent to the dash . The PWM Duty is depending on ADC value i did not have the nerves to go true all values . i did all straight degrees ( 60-70-80-90-100-110-120-red-zone ) and the needed PWM in between the the whole degrees. And t formed a kind of pattern and i added a value before and vale after so the arrow moves pretty smooth (Important note Base PWM frequency needed is 144 HZ, if you go higher the arrow acts strange ) .

 

And after all this if someone is still reading it is time to relate the ADC values read on the specific temperatures to the PWM values needed to point the arrow at the right spot . and if that is not enough it is best to get a complex reading method read 5 times water temperature in some mS intervals add all of the values and then divide on the number of values red so you do not have the arrow going up and down ...

 

I can find the values for PWM that i found but that can vary depending on the car temperature needle position basically the interval will be the same.... It cant be made just plug and play it needs customization for every MS clone ever made might not be allot but it is needed .The whole thing is allot of work . It can be little less if MS is sensor calibration is done correct as in my case because my MS is operating the fan speeds too . Nothing is impossible in electronic circuitry I have found also cheap Knock detection scheme that works with MS and MS can control the advance depending on the knock very little need to tune and little chance of detonation damage, but yet anther module needed to be added but it makes it more fun to do

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Great work. All very impressive.

 

Clive