Got The 2.0 Turbo In At Last But Lots Of Problems

[DamirGTI 342]

You can identify the springs by color marks on the spring coils (red , yellow ..) , if they're not rusted clean up a little bit and the color markings should be visible .

 

On my Ph1 1.6 they where red marked springs , and on my two Ph2 1.9 are yellow . Dunno about CTI though , an blast trough "service-box" will revile which ones (spring color marks) are for CTI .

 

Anyways , do you like this engine in a 205 ? i have the same , good condition 2.0 T along with the wiring , from 605 sat in my garage on a crane for more than 6 months now ! and i'm "kinda lost" with what to do with it

 

(an mate who had it in a 205 GTI told me that it consumes petrol in copious amounts ..)

 

Damir

Edited July 30, 2013 by DamirGTI

[Anthony 1,003]

That really doesn't look right on the front if that's standard GTi springs - that looks far more like a typical 30-40mm lowering spring would sit with a boat anchor fitted in place of the standard alloy block.

 

Certainly the Eibach 7001's on mine weren't far off that after dropping the GTi-6 in, which I guess is within a few kilos of the weight of the 2.0 8v turbo.

 

With standard 205 GTi springs, I'd still expect something in the region of a 2-3" gap between the top of the tire and bottom of the arch, whereas it looks like you've not even got an inch? In some of your pictures further up the page it looks more like I'd expect.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Mmm but further up the page its wearing its speedlines not peppers lol

[Anthony 1,003]

The effective tire size is basically the same between them though (within 1%) assuming you're running the correct/usual tyres.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Ok pulled out the tools and got to the bottom of this annoying problem, seems like the new springs were indeed lowering springs. Here's my old 1.6 cti springs with red paint marks compared to the new springs

 

 

And here's the ride height difference between sides bump stop is now in place as well as the strut boot

 

 

compared to the drivers side which i havent done yet

 

 

Oh Damir is this engine suited to the 205? Well I have mixed feelings, it very heavy and its very noticable when braking/cornering, its nowhere near as nimble/instant/urgent as it used to be. It is very thirsty when booted but also quite economical when driving miss daisy. Gears are well out, you can almost miss out 1st gear and just use 2nd to 5th which then feels like you need a 6th.

 

Suppose what you really want to know is How fast is it? Well its quick very quick indeed but because of the gearbox ratios you can "tell" the restriction of the engine management range. However If I unplug the lambda sensor its stupid fast, unbelievable miles of smiles but fuel consumption goes through the roof. May fit a switch to the lambda circuit so i can have fuel economy and bags of godlike acceleration at the flick of a switch.

 

It's very reliable too having owned this engine in my 605 for 8 years as a daily it never failed to start or broke down and it took a hell of a lot of abuse being in a heavy car, the turbo ME5T box is unbreakable if you ask me i gave it hell lol.

 

It's a long slog to fit into a 205 with lots of modification needed but seeing your mi32 thread it will be a walk in the park for you hehe

[welshpug 1,657]

is that two red marks?

 

any chance you could measure the wire diameter and free length? would be useful to know for future reference, can allocate a pug part number to them and a specific car spec, rather than guessing!

 

 

Edit: if it is just two red marks then that's 5002 37, same as a 1.9 GTI.

Edited August 4, 2013 by welshpug

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

1 blue and 2 red paint marks

and its 350mm long by 12 mm thick. For reference its a 1.6 87 E reg phase 1

[welshpug 1,657]

ahh 5002 T1 then, is that an accurate 12mm? if so then quite a bit less than the 12.5mm 1.9 gti spring.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Could be 12.5 allowing for 26 years of exposure to the elements if they are the original springs

[DamirGTI 342]

Oh Damir is this engine suited to the 205? Well I have mixed feelings, it very heavy and its very noticable when braking/cornering, its nowhere near as nimble/instant/urgent as it used to be. It is very thirsty when booted but also quite economical when driving miss daisy. Gears are well out, you can almost miss out 1st gear and just use 2nd to 5th which then feels like you need a 6th.

 

Suppose what you really want to know is How fast is it? Well its quick very quick indeed but because of the gearbox ratios you can "tell" the restriction of the engine management range. However If I unplug the lambda sensor its stupid fast, unbelievable miles of smiles but fuel consumption goes through the roof. May fit a switch to the lambda circuit so i can have fuel economy and bags of godlike acceleration at the flick of a switch.

 

It's very reliable too having owned this engine in my 605 for 8 years as a daily it never failed to start or broke down and it took a hell of a lot of abuse being in a heavy car, the turbo ME5T box is unbreakable if you ask me i gave it hell lol.

 

It's a long slog to fit into a 205 with lots of modification needed but seeing your mi32 thread it will be a walk in the park for you hehe

 

Thanks for info .. with today's petrol prices , i think i'll leave it alone for some future project .. the fuel consumption is really something that put's me off now , cos if i fit it in my 205 it'll be daily drive but with such consumption not now really .

 

Will rather stick to my modified 1.9 8V (running on LPG !) .. and maybe do an hybrid afterwards from few engine bits including 2.0T (i already have an plan in my head , just worried if it will work financially ..)

 

Oh , you've misunderstood me with "Cybernick" , with regards to the mi32 thread ...

 

D

Edited August 4, 2013 by DamirGTI

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Ahh so I have appologies for that Damir :/

[DamirGTI 342]

Not to worry , i'm also to the some state "engine freak"

 

My last project (well , for a friend of mine ..) , not 205 but anyway :

 

http://www.guy-croft.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3094

 

... i like engine modification stuff , got severely sick on cylinder head porting !

 

D

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Replaced original springs and fitted bump stops from my original cti struts and the strut johnnys and voila jobs a good un

 

Rear height still looks a tad higher due to the weight at the front but I can lower that when i refurb it, also just noticed it looks uneven side to side on the rear too

 

 

[Anthony 1,003]

Much better height wise at the front now!

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Went out in it today for a few hours, came back parked it and a mate wanted to have a blast but it wouldn't start. The keypad immobiliser is acting the twat. Flashing red with ignition off and solid red and green with ignition on. Had battery off and everything unplugged for over 3 hours this afternoon still same. Anyone know how to reset this bitch, i'd like to keep it rather than bypass it as its peace of mind.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Same problem as mine

 

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Fitted a spare ecu today and it runs but now the keypad just lights up green with ignition on and flashing red with ignition off like its supposed to BUT I haven't entered the code.

 

Now i understand the ecu has no immobiliser and is nothing to do with the keypad, the keypad just controls the double relay.

 

So how can changing the ecu like that just make it start working and working without needing to put the code into it?

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

The keypad is connected to the ecu pins 27 and 50,my understanding of the system is when the code is entered the ecu earths pin 10 on the double relay,i guess because your ecu has no immobiliser it has an ignition earth on pin 3 of the ecu.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

The ecu's are identical and the spare came from another identical 605 with its own keypad which I reprogrammed with the same code, i'm just puzzled how its not locking no matter how long its turned off now, it just goes green at ign on.

 

Sods law is bound to kick in and the first time we go out of town for a day out it will spaz out and think 'I'm accepting codes today' and were screwed.

 

If i disconnect the pad and join wire 13 and 14 on the connector it runs but not with the original ecu so it might have just died a grim death, just seems odd how its lasted so many years then dead after i just used it.

 

I'll do some more sniffing.

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

Keep a spare length of wire in the car to earth the double relay and you will be fine,lol.

Good luck searching,im sure you will sort it.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

I had considered putting in a hidden switch because this morning managed to make the keypad spaz out on my spare ecu as well but hotwiring pin 3 on the double relay put it back to always on green mode.

 

Tried doing the same to the original ecu too but its a no go so it must have died somehow.

 

Somethings not right elsewhere now too as the idle control solenoid runs permanently without the key in the igntion now and im getting an eml light on at first start arrrrgghhhh bloody electrics

 

Fast considering going back to the much lighter 1.9 with all the turbo stuff on it.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

This is starting to get right on my tits, this morning I went out in it and since then it's been parked up all day. When I returned to it the double relay is buzzing like mad so I've disconnected it and taken it apart.

 

Inside all there is is 2 relays and 4 diodes for 15 pins (I realise not all are connected) so i'm thinking maybe the keypad is at fault but my original ecu is definitely goosed.

[pugdamo 111 2 Cars]

Get an unlocked ecu and do away with it,problem solved.Iv got a problem with mine,manifold gasket has gone,not sure how much fun thats going to be to change.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Exhaust one's? Just take them out and use the stainless one alone its what it was designed for, it's all i have on mine.

 

These ecu's don't lock they have no code or immobiliser in them, remember mine's the earlier type. Phase 1 605.

 

I'm trying to find out how to do away with the sodding keypad but not having much luck finding anything. I'm convinced it's gone faulty.

 

Switched live to pin 27 on the ecu only works when the keypad is plugged in, which is enabled on the keypad anyway at present.

 

I have no idea what pin 3 ECU pin 50 (8CS at keypad 50CS at ECU) and pin 4 ECU pin 13 (18CE at keypad 13 at ECU) are for but it wont run without them.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Today I have sorted this, the keypad seemed to have lost the code i had programmed into it and reverted back to factory code of 1212 and this explains the red and green lights.

 

So this also points to the ecu storing the code too, I unplugged the keypad turned ignition on plugged keypad back in and entered 1212 and voila working perfect again.

 

Now when i plug in my spare ecu it just goes green so is obviously bypassed somehow, I read on here that the code is stored in the eprom and if you change it to 0000 it disables the lock completely.