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scottbarton

Bonnet Hinge Sheared Bolt?

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scottbarton

I noticed today whilst topping up my screen wash that the drivers side bonnet hinge bolt has either sheared or come away from one of the fixings. Not had a proper chance to have a look at it yet, anyone know if this is an easy fix? Looking at the service box page its the bolt that is nearest the driver, and looks like it is a capscrew (G) - 6917A5)) that goes through a flexible washer(B - 696212)), then the bracket, and finally into a fixing spacer(5)791415)).

How does this fit together? Does the fixing spacer poke through from the inside of the wing? Easy accessible?

 

image-1.jpg

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marksorrento205

Common fault now. I repaired one on a 205 rallye on Wednesday.

 

I drill them out and re thread them. If that is not possible I fit a helicoil. However I have a pair of 90 degree drills I use for easy access :)

 

Edit: I have a bag of bolts from pug and they are a standard hex head bolt.

Edited by marksorrento205

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Tom Fenton

As Mark says, with the plastic cover off access isn't too bad, but a 90 deg drill (which is what I also use) does help a lot.

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scottbarton

Cool. Cheers guys, will have a crack at it when I get a chance. I did a search on here after i posted this (doh!) and found a few threads with the same issue. All a common theme, either O/S or N/S rear bolt sheared.

Will see how bad it is and then decide on a rivnut or other options.

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welshpug

Number 5 in the pic is the bush the hinge is meant to turn on, these tend to seize and leads to the bolts snapping.

 

The nut they screw into is captive inside the chassis rail which unfortunately is quite inaccessible, but as the guy's mention as they are quite firmly attached you can drill the remains of the bolt and send a tap through if you have a 90 degree headed or very compact drill.

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SurGie

Not a lot of space around the back bolt hole area so to save time n effort i used a self tapper bolt after drilling it through, all the other bolts on mine are fine so im not worried about it coming out or nothing.

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marksorrento205

Not a lot of space around the back bolt hole area so to save time n effort i used a self tapper bolt after drilling it through, all the other bolts on mine are fine so im not worried about it coming out or nothing.

Out of interest, you have gone to the trouble of drilling it, why not tap it whilst you are at it and fit a normal bolt? Not that it matters either way as it is your car, but drilling it is the hard bit??

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SurGie

For me drilling was pretty easy with using a cobalt drill and 90 degree drill tool, i tried to tap it with a pair of mole grip pliers but space made it difficult for me and with self tappers its just one less job to do.

 

If i ever had to remove the bonnet again ill just take it off the hinge instead of taking the hinge off the scuttle panel.

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marksorrento205

Non of it is hard, that was my point! I guess having the gear helps ;)

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Tom Fenton

Some people repair, others mend, there is a difference.

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Stephen W

If you have a problem tapping out the new thread with mole grips, try using a ratchet tap handle which is what I used on the rear of mine.

They are only about £10 and well worth it. Plus I use mine at work all the time. It's not too difficult to get in there and for peace of mind it's done properly.

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scottbarton

Gents....going to have a go at this over the xmas hols, i have got myself a right angled drill and also one for my Dremel so should be ok to drill out the sheared bolt. Can anyone confirm its 6mm i need to tap out to?

Also, does the bolt need to turn? Looking at the way the hinge moves i guess it does?

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scottbarton

Further to this...has anyone ever considered hydraulic bonnet openers? If i am doing this level of drilling out etc, wonder if that has ever been attemped...would do away with the clunky bonnet stay as well then.

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Tom Fenton

The bolt is M6, you need to drill 5.0mm.

The standard set up has a small spacer so the hinge moves on this and the bolt is done up tight.

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