Accessing The Ignition Switch

[feb 47]

Hi,

 

I am going to troubleshoot the starting problem I have with the help of a collegue who has kindly offered to give me a hand during lunchtime today.

 

My question is how do I get to the ignition switch?

 

I have removed the lower steering column plastic, do I need to remove the plastic trims around the indicators/wipers stack? If so how?

 

I remember this was quite tricky last time I replaced a stack in my previous 205.

 

Thanks guys!

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Do you want to remove the barrel?

 

If so you'll need to remove the small retaining screw above. To prevent couling removal to get a driver in, I have often used a pair of pliers to grab the head and undo, they shouldn't be that tight.

 

Then you'll need to put the key and turn it one or two clicks (I forget - you just turn it until you can feel the resistance by the retaining pins underneath release) and use a screwdriver or similar to push them in while pulling the barrel out.

 

The loom will pull though the column. Just go careful with the plugs pushing them though the hole.

[Anthony 1,003]

No need to remove it, unless you're swapping it.

 

Voltage drop testing can be done using the connector plugs, either by the ignition barrel, or on the fusebox.

[feb 47]

Yes, we managed to push the pins of the barrel when the key is between the accessory and ignition but we didn't know how to remove the little screw above the barrel.

 

Anthony, not swaping it, just need to find out where the drop is first.

 

I didn't see any connector plugs are there is a plastic sheet that is wrapped around the back of the cables/switch, if I tear this off will I have access to the connector plugs you are describing?

 

Thanks guys!

Edited December 7, 2012 by feb

[welshpug 1,657]

no, the 205 ignition barrel has long leads, the plugs are clipped to the base A-pillar not far from the ecu on mine.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Follow that grey plastic sheath to 2 plugs where it meets the link loom.

[feb 47]

Ok, when you say link loom, is that any of the 2 brown multi plug connectors as per first picture or the white connector next to ECU as per second and third picture?

 

I am totally clueless when it comes to cars ...

 

 

 

[welshpug 1,657]

that's the buggers, looks well messed with.

[feb 47]

The white connector has always been like this since the car is fitted with an Emerald.

 

The brown ones were a little disturbed when replacing the servo and MC (as the car wouldn't start afterwards) but waggling them fixed the issue.

 

That's the reason I used insulating tape to push them in the connector and tie wrapped the connectors together to prevent the wires moving.

 

I'll remove the tape and waggle them while trying to start the car see if that helps.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

It's the 2 small 4 pin ones you are looking at. That loom links over the dash and connects to the fuseboard.

[welshpug 1,657]

As above, and has nothing to do with emerald, thats through the brown plugs.

[feb 47]

Aha, I learn something new every day

I found another 2-pin (or 4-pin can't remember now!) connector by the A-pillar.

 

Looks like green is the wire I should be after?

[Anthony 1,003]

There should be another plug in addition to that white one - from memory it's brown and has two thick wires.

 

This is purely from memory and should be verified with a multimeter!

 

Both wires on the brown plug - +12v constant from fusebox

Two blue / green wires on the white plug - 12v switched accessory.

Yellow / red wire on the white plug - 12v ignition

Orange / white wire on the white plug - starter

 

As you can tell, at some point that car had a different alarm/immobiliser installated and hence the wiring has been hacked around with in that area, and from memory is joined up where the alarm was removed somewhere nearby. It's thus probably better checking at the fusebox - the white and brown plug goes straight through to the fusebox.

 

That said, I honestly don't think that is your problem - the fact that the issue only appeared after you seperated the brown multiplug and comes and goes when you wiggle it suggests to me that there's still a lousy connection there somewhere, either on the connector itself or a wire that's broken internally in the vicinity of it.

 

A quick and dirty way to prove it would be to get a short length of thick cable, remove a bit of insolation from both ends, and place one end in each side of the back of the brown plug on the pin with the fat light blue cable (wire 46) which is the starter solenoid feed. Make sure that the bare copper is touching the metal on the pins on both sides, and then see if it will reliably crank over - if it does, then it's a lousy connection on that plug.