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Hugh_

205 1.6Gti Plumbing

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Hugh_

The track car has finally received a new engine and gearbox which went in at the weekend, with a little bit of head scratching about the plumbing because I stupidly managed to delete all the photos I took of the old setup off my iphone when trying to move then into a separate album!

 

It is a standard 1.6Gti XU, car is 1989, and as far as I can tell the engine is 1988. Is the attached diagram the right setup?

 

Thanks

Hugh

post-20864-0-48388000-1353002531.png

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welshpug

not quite right, the top of the rad goes directly to the expansion tank, throttle body goes back to the thermostat, you can bypass the throttle body and go direct to the expansion tank.

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Hugh_

Didn't quite follow that:

the top of the rad goes directly to the expansion tank - the overflow?

throttle body goes back to the thermostat - what goes to the throttle body then?

 

Editted to add revised image.

post-20864-0-12458000-1353004329_thumb.png

Edited by Hugh_

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pug_ham

Leave the throttle body out of the cooling system, its not needed here in the Uk.

 

This attachment shows how I have mine plumbed.

 

g

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Hugh_

Thank you

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swervygerdy

I’ve just swapped an engine in my 205 for one I purchased of a fellow member and have a few questions regarding the plumbing.

 

The hose form the header tank (lilac hose in Pug Hams link) has no where to go on my new engine, a bolt has been wound into the hole I think (see pic).

 

Also, the hose coming from the heater matrix to the thermostat is too short, it looks like the engine has maybe been ran without a thermostat – is this fairly common and whats the best way forward?

 

Also the replacement engine is on Webbers. Crapy phone pics attached

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swervygerdy

">http://IMAG0939_zps8da83116.jpg

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swervygerdy

">http://IMAG0941_zps350dd1c5.jpg

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j_turnell

The outlet changed positions from phase 1 to phase 2, the engine fitted is a phase 2 has the outlet at 90deg to the thermostat as you have, the earlier phase 1/1.5 is in line with the thermostat and goes straight out the back. So you need a phase 2 hose from the heater which will go straight onto the outlet, or alternatively swap the housings over so you can use the hose on the car, the former is easier and less hassle. Plus keeping the later setup gets rid of the ? shaped hose which always perishes.

Edited by j_turnell

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swervygerdy

Ahh right, ok that makes sense as its an 89 car so eary type plumbing.

 

Any ideas regarding the hose from the headder tank?

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pug_ham

Swap the thermostat housing for the one off your old engine so you have the T piece for the hose to the expansion tank & bleed screw.

 

It has a 6mm allen head bolt hidden that needs the distributor off & there is a gasket between the housing & head (part number 1340 08).

 

g

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swervygerdy

OK, I have another head with a broken engine mount that I can chop the bits off. Thanks Pug_Ham, I would never have noticed that allen head bolt - you can see it in the pic.

 

 

IMAG0943_zps6c462a20.jpg

 

It looks like the thermostat housing comes in two parts - the part that the distributor fixes to (above) and the part that the SAD fits to (below).

 

IMAG0947_zpse532920d.jpg

 

If I mount both these to the replacement engine I should be able to run with the existing hoses, right?

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welshpug

yes :)

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pug_ham

OK, I have another head with a broken engine mount that I can chop the bits off. Thanks Pug_Ham, I would never have noticed that allen head bolt - you can see it in the pic.

 

 

If I mount both these to the replacement engine I should be able to run with the existing hoses, right?

 

I thought I'd mention it after the first time I tried to remove the housing with the dizzy still on & became stumped why it wouldn't come off when I'd removed every other bolt I'd found that was obviously holding it on.

 

The part with the SAD attached is the old style coolant temp sensor housing but later phase 2 cars have the coolant temp sensor in the back of the thermostat housing & a different pipe to the bulkhead heater matrix connection.

 

With everything refitted as it was prior to the engine swap you shouldn't have to change anything & it'll fit straight back together.

 

g

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