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dogboy1066

Low Rear End?

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dogboy1066

Hi,

 

I'm currently mid way through rebuilding my car. I recently replaced the rear beam (which was much easier than i thought) but upon de-jacking it, the rear end of the car was a lot lower than the front .

 

The replacement beam was used, off a low mileage car (but i didn't see it on the car). There is no noticable play in the arms, wheels look straight, the arms rotate (admittidly not much before they hit the bump stops) and the rear end is equally low both sides. It was visibly in good condition too, still in the original paint.

 

I suspect it is lowered (about 50mm), but before i go and have a go at raising it and potentially waste my time, are there any problems that may have caused it to lower?

 

My old one was ballsed, but only on one side was it lower, siezed, there was visible play and the wheel wasn't straight! It is the only refference i have. I also can't contact the guy i got it off.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Dan

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Anthony

Quite possible that it's been removed from a lowered car given the number of them around.

 

Certainly from your description it sounds more like it's been lowered than being completely goosed if it is equal both sides and moves freely, but that's certainly not to say that it's a healthy beam! If you're taking it apart to raise it back up, I would strongly suggest rebuilding it at the same time if there's no history, or at the very least, new seals and a regrease if it is in good condition but you don't have the time/funds for a rebuild at the moment.

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Batfink

Simplest thing to do would be to raise it.

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pug_ham
Simplest thing to do would be to raise it.

But that alone can open a can of worms if the condition is unknown.

 

I've striped beams which at first sight appeared fine, both arms sat without excessive camber & moved freely yet when the beam was stripped, both bearings were dust & the radius arm shafts ruined.

 

If you choose to just raise it up then either disconnect the torsion bars at both ends & make a dummy shock from a piece of wood to set both sides the same & rotate the torsion bars until they slide back home or if you use the spline method, disconnect the same end of the torsion bar on each side so you alter it the same.

 

g

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dogboy1066

Thanks for your replies.

 

I admit i'm worried that if i try and raise it, it may turn out it needs new bearings etc, which will not be fun to fix.

 

I will have a go at raising it in a couple of weekends and see how it goes. I was going to do the spline method as detailed in the articles on the web site but i will look into the torsion method as described by Pug ham too before i get to it; i'll look at whats required to new seal/grease it too.

 

Cheers

 

Dan

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Anthony

If you find that it needs new bearings when you come to raise it, then it needed new bearings regardless - the only difference is that you might have discovered before it was too late.

 

As I've said many times - by the time beams are showing symptoms of problems, it's too late as by that point they're typically scrap or at the least requiring a much more expensive rebuild than they would have if they had been done sooner. Bearings and seals are comparitively cheap - shafts and tubes are not.

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pug_ham
I will have a go at raising it in a couple of weekends and see how it goes. I was going to do the spline method as detailed in the articles on the web site but i will look into the torsion method as described by Pug ham too before i get to it; i'll look at whats required to new seal/grease it too.

From personal experience, you'll be safer doing it by the correct method with both ends of the torsion bars disconnected but doing it that way you are 75% of the way to having it dismantled for fitting new bearings & seals etc so you might as well do it all at the same time imo.

 

The spline method is a bad idea, especially on an old beam & you have to be certain both sides are rotated one spline each or you'll end up with an uneven ride height. Also, the article on the site isn't the best iirc.

 

g

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Miles

Mileage is no indication of condition, had beams from 40k car's which are goosed and even passed MOT's, to the other extreme of over 250k and still OK

 

If you need any help, pressing in or out let me know

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pug_ham
Mileage is no indication of condition, had beams from 40k car's which are goosed and even passed MOT's, to the other extreme of over 250k and still OK

Agreed, my 88k ebay win from last year was seized & no good but it had been freed for the mot before I bought it.

 

This attachment shows what it was like when I stripped it down.

 

g

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NFS

Where do you guys get the bearings and seals from? ive checked ebay and they quite expensive or is that just what they cost?.

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Anthony

eBay is generally parts from the dealer with the sellers mark up added.

 

Just buy them from the dealer, and note that the 306 "kit" is cheaper than buying the bearings individually for 205's. Part number all listed if you do a search.

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NFS

Thanks and generally. how much for a set? or is it listed with the parts numbers? i will do a search now thanks

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pug_ham
Thanks and generally. how much for a set?

I've just checked & a set is £21.34, part number I have is 5132.62

 

post-71-0-23661800-1353162812_thumb.jpg

 

g

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