First Time Mi16 Rebuild Advice

[Kane 34]

Hi everyone,

 

As the title describes I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my first Mi16 engine to drop into my 1.9 Gti. So far I have stripped down the engine to the block and have found a few problems including perished hoses and rather bad pitting caused by corrosion on the head. Am I correct in saying that the head face could be welded and then machined or is it just a case of scrapping it and finding another?

 

After doing a bit of research it looks as though its recommended to renew the following:

 

Gasket set (top & bottom) inc. head gasket

Headbolts

Thrust washers

Main & big end bearings

Cam belt

water pump

 

Is there anything else that I should look into buying?

 

Any help with this project would be great!

 

Cheers

[Kane 34]

Oh and forgot to ask does anyone know of a decent machinists up in central Scotland?

 

Cheers

[dcc 855]

Have a look at M@tt's Signature...

 

http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showuser=3557

 

He gives the 'rebuild' Manual for this engine as a resource for all of us to use.

 

 

Yes the head can be repaired, but it can be quite costly to have done to a high standard.

[big al 205 0]

try engine resource in dundee could not fault them ,

[Kane 34]

Have a look at M@tt's Signature...

 

http://forum.205gtid...p?showuser=3557

 

He gives the 'rebuild' Manual for this engine as a resource for all of us to use.

 

 

Yes the head can be repaired, but it can be quite costly to have done to a high standard.

 

Thanks, should make it a bit easier with something to refer to.

 

 

try engine resource in dundee could not fault them ,

 

Excellent I'm not far from Dundee so I'll look into using them once I get to that stage of the build

[Kane 34]

So quick update on the project...

 

Head is off and bottom end stripped. At a glance the crank seems to be in good condition but will find out shortly once I take a trip to the machinists. Managed to get the liners out today and as expected found some corrosion so went about giving the block a good clean, will post pictures shortly.

 

Quick question, if the crank does end up needing to be ground will larger shells be required or can you just use standard sizes?

 

Am now currently attempting to source all the bit and pieces required for the rebuild so will no doubt be undertaking some more cleaning while I wait. Will hopefully have some photos up soon.

 

Cheers

[dcc 855]

if it needs a grind then yes shells need to be oversized.

[Kane 34]

I thought so, thanks for the reply.

[Kane 34]

So been doing a little cleaning today, liners looking pretty good although I've went to start cleaning out the block and think I have found a disaster. Cylinder 1 (flywheel end) has a lot of corrosion shown in the picture. Is there anyway of getting this patched up or am I completely screwed and will need a new block?

 

Cheers

[welshpug 1,657]

you need to clean it up and brush away the corrosion before you can asses what needs to be done.

[kyepan 291]

have a read of my engine build thread, all of the problems associated with rebuilding a 1.9 wet liner MI are in there, and plenty of solutions.

 

main topics to consider are

 

Liner protruderance - measuring it accurately, and then fixing if it's not right

Oil control - wet sump setup to help oil pressure control.

Head - does it need a refurb, if so what bits.

Block - making sure it's clean down the oil ways, liner seats are in good order(linked to protruderance)

Crank - making sure it doesn't need a regrind.

 

then options

head - 3 angle seats, back cut valves, any throat work

block - deck it 0.4mm to give you 11:1 and much more go

Sump - gti6 sump, pump, extended pickup, 26t sprocket and chain.

 

as i said all this is covered in my thread, and use the engine build manual mentioned before.

 

cheers and good luck

 

J

[Kane 34]

Got some more of the crap off and the corrosion doesn't seem as bad as I first thought. Spoke to a machinist earlier and he mentioned it may be possible to seal with silicone or if there is too much damage have the seats fixed up, hopefully it will only be a silicone job.

 

Hey Justin, yeah I've been skimming over your thread the past couple of weeks (good job!). So far I have found that the head will definitely need some work, possibly a few welds due to pitting. Crank is out and looks to be in relatively good condition although will be sending it off to the guys at engine resource to have a look over it to make sure but won't be doing this until I've stripped the head down so that can go in at the same time. This is my first ever engine rebuild so am new to a lot of things, I am just going to be running it as a fast road car so is the oil setup change necessary? I have read the mi's not great with oil when driven hard on the track but would it be ok using standard for this use?

 

Cheers

 

Kane

[kyepan 291]

Up to you really on the oil control, your looking at perhaps a hundred quid, probably less for the extended pickup, sprocket chain and pump spring.

 

 

I would not trust silicone over the longer term, find out how much to recut the seats and deck the block against the hassle of another strip down

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

There is a Alloy putty that I have from Wurth, It's spot and and goes so hard it can be machined so ideal to fill in the corrosion around the block as they do crack with ease, the head bolts pull the block up to make it do this (Well that's my theory anyway)

 

 

Sump wise just fit the old style PTS baffle, Never liked dropping the sump as one tap and it's game over, even at the std height they just skim the ground so any lower and it's a huge no no in my book

[Kane 34]

Sounds like the PTS baffle is the better choice, what does it come off of? Or do you know if anyone still supplies them Miles?

 

Had the valves out the head the other day and as you can see from the pictures a bit of carbon build up on the exhaust side. Currently have them soaking in oven cleaner to try clean them up, any tips on cleaning valves?

 

Exhaust Valve

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mo0iyu2afcz8bnj/20121128_221945.jpg

 

Inlet Valve

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/l1p7x8h6x7sga3k/20121128_221954.jpg

 

Here is the block cleaned up a bit

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cxky8yi904tt30z/20121128_195001.jpg

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ewy396s070peq74/20121128_221902.jpg

Edited December 8, 2012 by Kane

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Constella do the sump baffles and a good copy they are from all the previous ones that have been around, Head I really would get off to a specialist to get done, It's not worth the time and effort to DIY as it's quite cheap

[Kane 34]

So the project has taken a rather abrupt halt due to lack of funds. Currently in the progress of finishing off another project to fund the conversion so work should commence soon. Anyway I've been researching info on converting the 205 loom to mi and have read its easily done by adding a few wires if it is motronic already. Had a quick glance under the steering column earlier and saw a 'superchips' ecu, could anyone tell me whether this is a jetronic or motronic or something completely different and would it be the case of just adding a few wires to the loom or would it require mating both the 205 and mi looms.

Thanks