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Tandoh

Sensors Required To Run Omex On 106 Gti Engine

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Tandoh

Hi all,

 

I've got a 205 Rallye with a gti engine in it. I've just got an omex 600 to run on the standard inlet abd tb. I'm pretty confident I know what to do with the wiring, although cant decide whether to buy new connectors or reuse the ones off my current loom. Also if I should be using new connectors, can anyone recommend suitable tooling to crimp the terminals.

 

Another issue I'm having, is identifying if I need to use any different sensors to standard.

 

Is the standard 106 lambda, cts, ats, tps, crank sensor and knock sensor going to be suitable?

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks.

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welshpug

You wont need the knock, as the ecu hasn't the capability for it, and most don't run closed loop wth a lambda so that can be left out too, purely using a wideband when mapping, but all the rest can/need to stay.

 

You can make reasonable crimps with the £15-20 ratchet crimpers from the likes of Lazer, you just have to take your time with them, the pro's will use ones that fetch several hundreds if not a few thousand.

 

The original housings are ideal if you can extract all the rubber/silicone sealing them up and get them apart without damage (I've managed it but it takes a while) and its nice to have ones the right colour and keyways, that you can;t get in the aftermarket other than directly from a dealer at great cost.

 

Polevolt, Simtek, VWP, RS, probably a few more can do the bits you need.

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Sandy

OMEX can run knock, but I don't recommend it, get it mapped well by someone that knows what they're doing with these engines and it'll never get near critical knock. Concur with Meirion about WB Lambda, nice to have a gauge, but closed loop is pretty futile if the mapping is good; it can cause hesitation if used.

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Tandoh

Ah thank you for the help!

 

I will get another standard gti loom to remove the connectors from I think, as that way I will have spares.

 

I am quite local to Ktec, and I have spoken to andy down there about mapping. He said he has mapped these engine before so I'm planning on getting the mapping done by him.

 

Thank you again for your help guys! :)

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Miles

For the hassle of connectors I'd buy new as they are dirt cheap, Andy use's a external knock sensor anyway while mapping, the frequency of it is allot better than any std bolt on sensor, Get a P&G TPS as well

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Sandy

Penny and Giles pots have been nothing but agro for us, we've given up on them and fitting one to this would be major hassle. Standard J4 TPS is fine.

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Miles

Interesting as i've never had a issue with them yet, What goes wrong with them?

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Sandy

You don't get a sensible range in the quadrant you need it from day one, about half the ones we had were like that and Jenvey wouldn't take any of them back, so we just stopped using them. The ones that were ok and stayed on the engines haven't given any trouble AFAIK.

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Tandoh

If I'm buying the terminals new, I suppose it makes sense to buy the connectors aswell.

 

Another question, should I be fitting a fuse between the ignition 12v and the ecu?

 

Also should I use a separate relay for the fuel pump to the injectors and coil?

 

Thanks again.

 

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Sandy

You should use a fuse yes. The OMEX uses an unusual relay arrangement, with the ECU power fed direct from the car's ignition circuit and the relay supplying fuel pump and injector/coil power, switched on by the ECU only when cranking/running.

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Tandoh

Thanks for all the help :)

I'm now going I'm a slightly different direction, after picking up a relative cheap set of jenveys!

 

I guessing I won't be running the MAP, ICV or ATS anymore? Is that correct? Thankyou once again for your help!

 

 

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welshpug

you will need the inlet air temp sensor, you can use the MAP still for barometric correction but in reality most don't.

Edited by welshpug

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Tandoh

Should I be mounting the ATS on the baseplate of the filter?

Cheers

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Sandy

No, mount it in free air near the trumpets. Heat soak from the base plate skews the compensation away from reality.

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