Xu10J4Rs Hesitant Under Load 3K

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

I have a 2001 Citroen xsara vts 2.0 16v (xu10j4rs) engine issue. Whenever it is under load in 4th gear the engine seems to be a little hesitant in reving out cleanly. Also when starting it when warm or cold, it will rev out cleanly for the 1st 30 or so seconds. After that you would hear it splutter and hesitate abit, but it's not consistent from about 3k on. Anyone had this problem on there engine in a 205??

 

The vehicle has no fault codes stored or EML on in the dash. The vehicle is run on good quality texaco petrol all the time and I have changed both lambda sensors about 8k ago after I did the transplant. They were motaquip sensors.

Coolant sensor seems to be within resistant tolerances as per Gti6 forum figures.

There was some oil contamination round the TPS though, but cleaned that with brake cleaner but still no difference.

The cat and exhaust is clear and not blocked.

Injectors are all reading same resistance and coil packs the same as well.

Bosch super plus plugs new 8k ago and all a nice colour and gapped correctly.

Fuel filter was new 8k ago.

 

Anyone else got any ideas for a cure? I'm thinking now maybe fuel starvation causing it. The vehicle is drivable ok but abit annoying with the hesitation.

Also to note it is transplanted into my partner combi van, but all xsara loom Ecu mulitplex is transferred as well so basically a xsara vts.

Edited November 1, 2012 by Redtop

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Try the plugs, Bosch ones are known to give allot of problems, why I have no idea but having had a set that did not work from new I'm never using them again

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Try the plugs, Bosch ones are known to give allot of problems, why I have no idea but having had a set that did not work from new I'm never using them again

 

Thanks, I'll give that a go and see Miles, they were the ones I got in genuine pug boxes, so thought they 'would ' be ok. Think the other brand they use is eyquem in genuine boxes.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Changed the plugs to Ngk ones this morning, but still doing the hesitant same thing even when warm/cold and engine under load. Thinking it could possibly be a coil (4 individuals) starting to break down? There is no sign of arcing or damage to any of them. Need to get the laptop on and watch the parameters up the road and see from there.

[laldy875 6 1 Cars]

I had the same problem with my engine. just to clarify- does your engine pickup after 5kish? (Haven't sorted it yet due to rebuild but...)

 

Could be a coilpack(hopefully) I bought one and then changed each one out to see if there was a difference. (No difference for me)

There is a check suggested on 306 site to unplug a coilpack at a time whilst the engine is running. If there is no change the coilpack could be culprit.

 

Some people also suggest that it could be linked to ICV, or Lambda could check the wiring?

Does your ICV seem to be making a lot of noise?

 

In 306 gti6 service manual it says:

 

"Hesitation/poor acceleration

Engine management system - connections/wiring/relays Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor Engine control module (ECM)

Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor"

 

Before you go buying all the sensors there is resistance checks for each sensor. If you could plug in diagnostics that could be extremely helpful, my loom unfortunately doesn't have that. Interested to see how you get on

Edited November 4, 2012 by laldy875

[SurGie 54]

Are your fuel pipes at the fuel rail like original, ie quite large diameter where fuel goes into the fuel rail. Having it thinner like 8mm is too thin, they need to be about 10mm diameter like original.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Yeah it still revs out to the redline after 5k ish. Seems to be when it's under load. It's not a completely duff coil pack as its not off a cylinder and all 4 plugs are a nice colour. Possibly one coil pack starting to break down, but obviously the plugs aren't going to show anything as its still running on all 4 cylinders.

 

Resistance checks were done on injectors, coils, intake air sensor and coolant temp sensor and are within tolerance. Idle has never been a problem for me and I put 2 lambda sensors (motaquip) in 8k ago.

All my connections are per xsara and nothing has been soldered so there should be no dry joints. I cleaned every earth before fitting as well and used jaggy washers.

 

Haven't checked crank sensor yet though. Does sound like ignition side of things but ruling nothing out as yet.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Are your fuel pipes at the fuel rail like original, ie quite large diameter where fuel goes into the fuel rail. Having it thinner like 8mm is too thin, they need to be about 10mm diameter like original.

 

All xsara 'snap' fit fuel lines surgie, nothing has been changed. No kinks in them either. Fuel wise doesn't matter if it's full/ half or near empty and never ran on supermarket dung, always texaco as I have a card for it.

[dan_gti6 0]

Sounds like MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor to me. Located on top of throttle body retained with 1 8mm bolt. Remove and inspect, if you don't want to replace without confirming the fault give it a good clean and symptoms should improve slightly.

[laldy875 6 1 Cars]

any progress?

[Jemehan 3 1 Cars]

I am having the same issue, Please let us know if you manage to fix it.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Haven't had a chance to look any further at it yet as I've so much else on and it's mot is up. I did notice a hairline crack on one of the individual coils so could be it possibly starting to break down. I did scan it and as I suspected no fault codes logged and no eml on either. Just need to spend time on it.

[Jemehan 3 1 Cars]

Any further with this one Richard?

[laldy875 6 1 Cars]

if you guys are interested- I'm working on getting a xsara vts schematic diagram up on the site. ORB posted one but hopefully be a better copy up soon. Seems ridiculous that all these cars running xsara vts engine and management and no proper diagram. I think the xsara schematic is similar, think there are some slight differences...

[welshpug 1,657]

the ecu and any data relating to the sensors is the same, its just how the wires are laid out that's different.

[laldy875 6 1 Cars]

the ecu and any data relating to the sensors is the same, its just how the wires are laid out that's different.

 

You wouldn't happen to know if the xsara injector section of the schematic the same as vts? could be on to something with my loom

[welshpug 1,657]

[laldy875 6 1 Cars]

What about the fuel pressure regulator? I'm pretty sure it's the same part that is used on some vag and bmw cars. I have heard when they fail it can produce bad cold idling and a lower 'limiter' between 3-4k, depends if its stuck open or can't hold the pressure.

There is a way to test it I think... worth a shot. Would fpr come up as a fault?

[welshpug 1,657]

Its just a pressure regulator not a sensor, there aren't any fuel pressure sensors.

 

It is pretty common across many cars though, VW Group, GM, FIAT SAAB, Renault ETC

[laldy875 6 1 Cars]

Its just a pressure regulator not a sensor, there aren't any fuel pressure sensors.

 

It is pretty common across many cars though, VW Group, GM, FIAT SAAB, Renault ETC

would this one do the job? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300609663187?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[James_K 6 1 Cars]

If your fuel pipe setup will allow it, I'd recommend getting a pressure gauge plumbed in to see whether the regulator is working properly before trying to replace it.

 

I had loads of trouble with seals leaking after changing the regulator. A gauge will be about half the price of a new regulator too.

[laldy875 6 1 Cars]

If your fuel pipe setup will allow it, I'd recommend getting a pressure gauge plumbed in to see whether the regulator is working properly before trying to replace it.

 

I had loads of trouble with seals leaking after changing the regulator. A gauge will be about half the price of a new regulator too.

Thanks for the advice. There is a smell of fuel at the regulator, maybe normal? It's not visually leaking.

 

How did you test the return? I checked pump pressure (after fuel filter but before rail) and it's within spec.

 

What problems did you have fitting the regulator? I was thinking of fitting it with a g clamp? Then the metal clip hold it in place?

[James_K 6 1 Cars]

I used a g clamp to push the regulator in, but had to use a lot of pressure, even when the o-rings were lubricated.

I could never manage to get it in without damaging the o-rings and it leaking soon afterwards. Eventually just swapped for another rail as it was such a hassle.

There's probably a better technique someone can advise on.