205Mi16 Dizzy

[Carbs4me 45]

Hello All,

 

Basic low down i have a Mi16 which i am going to be putting in the 205 in the next month or so.. Currently i have all parts needed apart from the expensive ones DTA & loom.

 

I have been looking at some of the conversions done on here, but i havent come across one with the Mi16 dizzy fitted only the 8v one. I will be using Thottle Bodies, would the Mi16 dizzy work or would i need to go with the route of the 8v dizzy.

 

The Mi16 dizzy looks a far tidyer and i would prefer to use that. just looking for advise from the guys who have done it already, as i would be looking to buy one next month if the answer is yes.

[welshpug 1,666]

if you have throttle bodies you will have no need at all for a distributor.

[Anthony 1,003]

If you're running aftermarket management, you'd be far better off ditching the dizzy setup completely and going wasted-spark, which is how the vast majority of throttle bodies and aftermarket conversions on here are done.

 

You could retain the Mi16 dizzy and coil, but there would be no point in doing so.

 

The only reason to run an 8v dizzy would be a carb conversion done on the cheap (ie without standalone ignition management)

[Carbs4me 45]

Can you point me in the direction of this wasted spark product please?

[Anthony 1,003]

Just about any early-mid 90's Peugeot or Citroen 8v engine, be it XU or TU, will have one (along with various other European cars of the era)

 

Here's a new one on eBay for example

 

On an Mi16, use with Corsa B 16v ignition leads, which are the correct length and fitting both ends.

 

Here's a new set on eBay for example

 

I've not personally bought from either of those suppliers, it's just to give you an example. Any motorfactor will be able to supply both items, probably off the shelf.

[Carbs4me 45]

I wouldnt need a coil pack with that would i?

 

Looking at my engine i dont have the housing for the dizzy cap either! only the 8v fitment for the mi16

[Anthony 1,003]

That is the coilpack I linked to above. Any decent aftermarket ECU will drive that directly.

 

You won't need the original Mi16 coil or ignition amp.

 

You'll just need to make or adapt a suitable bracket to attach it to the engine - have a browse of a few project threads to see how others have done it to give you some inspiration.

[Baz 421]

Here's a good pic showing it on some old shed...

 

Edited October 24, 2012 by Baz

[Carbs4me 45]

Thanks for the advise!

 

I have updated my first car rebuild topic, now im ready to lift the engine.

[petert 601]

Any decent aftermarket ECU will drive that directly.

 

That's interesting. What ECU's have the ability to switch a normal coil directly? The coil shown doesn't have any inbuilt ignitors.

[welshpug 1,666]

DTA, Omex, etc, as per most later pug.o.e ecu's like the GTI6's MM 1AP10.

Edited October 25, 2012 by welshpug

[petert 601]

That's interesting. Our locally made ECU's are getting smaller and smaller, and thus don't have the heat sinking ability to switch a coil(s). I recently bought a new ECU which is not much bigger than a cigarette packet. Even the injectors are heat sunk through the wiring.

[Anthony 1,003]

Some ECU's over here, certainly at the lower end of the market/range (eg DTA S40), are typically limited to only being able to drive two coils - fine for a 4 cylinder on wasted spark which I guess is all the majority need.

 

Certainly Emerald M3D/K3/K6, DTA E48/S40 (and above), Omex 500/600/700 series, and later Megasquirts (with the optional 2nd coil driver) will all run a TU/XU 8v style wasted spark coilpack directly without the need for external ignition modules.

 

Easy to wire up too with just three wires - +12v ignition and then the two outputs from the ECU to fire each side of the coil (for reference, it's pin 1 for cyl 1+4, pin 2 for cyl 2+3, and pin 3 or 4 for +12v)

[welshpug 1,666]

K6, S60, & 710 will do 4 cylinder sequential IIRC.

 

the DTA I have isnt particularly sizeable, certainly smaller than the o.e ecu's by a fair bit, I have seen S40's re-housed within Bosch/MM housings to create a P&P solution for a few cars.

[Carbs4me 45]

Another quick question from me, bit off topic but is relevant to the ECU... im also buying my loom from DTA, will this come with all the Sensor wires and alternater and starter motor aswell?

 

If anyone is good at fitting these things? say jan i would really apreciate it if someone would travel to me and give me a hand setting it up! as i am completely baffled as i have never setup a aftermarket ecu before! and do i need to tell them when ordering my ECU which engine it is.. if i where to say its the 1.9 16v version would that be enough? or do i just give them an engine code?

Edited October 25, 2012 by Carbs4me

[welshpug 1,666]

As you're in Lancashire I'd give martin Fox a call, he's a DTA agent and should be able to help a lot.

 

http://www.mefmotorsport.com/

 

the ecu will come with a disc that has the software and a few dozen maps, some of which should get your engine running at the least after you configure the ecu to your particular sensors, then get it mapped by someone like Wayne at chipwizards, over in Rochdale.

 

the loom will only be for the ecu, you'd need to either strip those wires from your 205's original loom, or (certainly preferable) add a few fresh wires for those functions.

[Carbs4me 45]

meh, i dont intend on paying unless i really need to, and the knock on effect will mean i will have to miss the lake trip which i dont want to miss and thats my dead line.

 

That guy from Chip wizards never answers his phone or texts to me... still waiting for a call back from about 8 weeks ago

[welshpug 1,666]

he's a very busy one man band, you're better off popping in

[Carbs4me 45]

Another question so the main loom that is on the drivers side of the car... does that not attach to the ECU?

[Carbs4me 45]

I mean the standard ECU?

[welshpug 1,666]

yup, does indeed.

[Carbs4me 45]

so im i right to believe that i would need to build my own loom into the DTA loom?

[welshpug 1,666]

kind of, remove anything that the old ecu uses, then add the DTA wires, though personally I;d add new wires for the sensors etc as well.

 

Whilst you have it all apart it'd be wise to re-route the wiring under the dash so it emerges from the left side of the engine bay under the header tank rather than right next to the hot exhaust.

Edited October 25, 2012 by welshpug

[Carbs4me 45]

does sandy not make these?

[Anthony 1,003]

Yes Sandy does make plug and play DTA looms - and a very nice job of it he does too, judging by the one he made for Kyepan earlier this year