Paint Job Price

[Rich 3]

205 finally back to bare shell not a bolt, pipe or cable left, so just wondering what price would I have to pay for a half decent paint job? after its blasted and primed. I also realised I can paint it any colour I like. its orginally red, but I like miami blue, also the grey, also the metalic green my head is wreaked with colours!! then again maybe nice to keep it original red. any ideas???

[Juttie205 123 2 Cars]

How long is a piece of string with paint jobs you get what you pay for also depends alot on how gd you prep it. If you prep it gd then that will reduce the price alot but your prep has to be good.

[jamie_1992 66 1 Cars]

we had a transit van painted the other day just the outside from yellow to white got it done for £800 so i would think it will be about 1300 for in and out. most places dont like it if you prime it befor hand they like to do all the painting themselves but depends on where you go and who you know

[EdCherry 34 1 Cars]

If you want it blasted and a decent finish your looking at £2500 upwards from experience of friends.

[Kezzer30 40 1 Cars]

Im a learning painter myself and it all depends really like said before u get what u pay for if u want a split mint job done with an oven etc ul pay big money but if ur not after conplete perfection ul get it alot cheaper

Also filling work will cost u more as uts more prep and more work thats pretty obvious but ud be suprised how many people dont realise that haha

Edited October 23, 2012 by Kezzer30

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Being realistic you would be looking 2500plus for a decent job done in an oven, so that it's not going to micro blister down the line. Take into consideration the quality of the paint, as commercial paint used on vans, lorries etc is cheaper and will sink over time so will constantly need polished up, particularly in reds and whites. Colour is your choice as its your car, but I'd stick with a period Peugeot colour personally especially for resale down the line. Red is nice when it is all polished up.

 

Nothing worse you spending all that time stripping all, to get a nice paint job done, to fine you have to do it again in a few years time because whoever done it was taking short cuts. Price also depends on how many dents/rust needing repaired/patched needs doing. I'd also advise making a spit up, so it's easier for the blaster and also body man to work at. We made our own and was easy enough. That's all going by the numerous restorations I've been involved in on 6 of my 205's and various other cars with my dad, not just reading stuff online and forming an opinion.

[Rich 3]

thanks for the replys. yep I 'd say original red is the best I want it like it came from peugeot down to the tape player that i'm hoping to track down. prob need to spend 3000 euro so, (crap trying to finish my house too) hmmmm prioritys eh . I built a spit already really handy never do one properly with out one. I have 2 other 1.9's and 1 1.6 so this one will be kept only for sunny days. maybe track car with one of the others, no shortage of spares anyway.

[Cameron 16]

I've seen cheap paint jobs and they've been cheap for a reason.. my housemate had his Golf re-sprayed on the cheap and the paint is blistering and peeling off. You get what you pay for basically, so if you want a good job that will last you'd better save those pennies!

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

A friend of mine had areas of his car blasted to reveal old repairs and we took it down to a restoration place for paint quotes. My friend was intending to get the rest blasted to help reduce prep for them but the painter stated the best base for paint, is old paint. Aggressive blasting pits the surface a fair bit. That's just an observation, he could be wrong/s*it at what he does, but I was impressed with some high end vehicles he showed us which he was working on at the time.

 

There probably is a bit of truth in it as the father in law started up doing Soda blasting, and when looking in to that we heard several paint companies stating they don't like sand blasting as it is very aggresive on panels. Soda gives a nice key.

[aarontrophy 26]

Same colour 500 outside

[harryskid 193]

Soda blasting, well nice to suggest it but no pics well, some of us come up with the goods

[aarontrophy 26]

That looks good

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Soda blasting, well nice to suggest it but no pics well, some of us come up with the goods

 

Sorry Jeff. Sincere apologies.

 

205 orientated soda blasting when I did mine:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ALEX 98 1 Cars]

I paid £850 for a full respray all but under side, but inside wheel arches were included.

I did all the prep myself though

[TT205 42]

How much for the roof Alex?

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Also watch who you get to do the soda blasting. I know when I got my rallye shell soda blasted the guy said he had to go extra slow with the roof as it was very weak and would be easily warped. Said he kept his other hand under the roof at the same time. Even someone soda blasting can still warp a panel. A courser grade of material is fine for the base of the car, but when it comes to the panels you have to be careful. My GTI that was just rubbed down to respray and not 'bare metalled' didn't need as much prep, as the soda blasted roof on the rallye.

 

Also note that soda does not remove rust, just paint.

[Rich 3]

well there's hardly any rust on my shell in dry shed for most of its life, bit of surface rust over the rear beam thats about it. that soda blasting must use serious amount of compressed air!! I don't think blasting will take off the stone chip stuff on the under side of the car?? think its blow torch and scraper? also during the spray painting are the doors and wings removed so as to spray the inner wheel arches and slam panels? then refit after to be sprayed? I've always wondered how they do this in the factory as the door hindge bolts seem to be painted in position as in the doors were on when the car was painted??? probably a stupid question.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

For the underseal thats exactly how i'd take it off. I wouldn't use the normal acetylene burners from the garage as they are too hot, but use e.g calor propane gas tank [same size as you put in a super super sir heater] with the blow torch fittment attached and then various scrapers and wire brushes.

 

Not sure on the painting at factory, but my painter does the doors/wings on stands, in the oven and then paints the screws/bolts secured into e.g wood. Bit of blue roll/masking tape in socket helps when refiting bolts, not to crack the paint, but you can always touch them in, or if being really fussy, he will cover the rest of the car and repaint them in, in the oven with the gun when all is fitted.

 

The guy that done our cars has a diesel air compresser and also alot of water is used in the process. Shells can sit in a dry shed for up to 3-4 weeks with out rusting, as a friend who builds rally cars told me that, when he was running behind time. As you can see in the pics it doesnt remove the rust that well and also sealer and isopon. Its nice to work on a blasted shell, like when I put the 2 sills on my mini it was nice and clean and easy to see where your welding too.

 

Avoid that spl crowd that do the dipping and e-coating, we had 2 shells done, one twisted and dented along with a bonnet ruined and also alot of dents on both shells. The acid sometimes doesn't always come out of the shells nukes and crannies and seeps out over time causing re-action with your nice new paint!!