Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
Weser

Where To Buy A Decent Coil And Ignition Amp From? Refurb Afm?

Recommended Posts

Weser

So My 1.9gti is running rough and I think it is down to the ignition system. I was wondering the best place to buy a good quality ignition amp and coil from. I have had the Dizzy refurbed so want to replace the rest. Might be a dodgey wire causing me problems but I am on the ruling out stage.

 

Also anyone know about refurbing an AFM? Want to get mine done so I know everything is good so that I can then get it set up and hopefully it will run better.

 

Engine management / setting up a car is not my strong point so if anyone local to me is a dab hand and wants to help me out for beer tokens I would really appreciate it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miles

Amps are best found S/H, I don;t think the new ones are very good, the only ones are the Bosch Blue MTR01's

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Weser

Ahh thanks Miles. Will put up a wanted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

If you want a remanufactured afm get in touch with ATP electronics, not sure on current pricing but was 150 exchange a few years back, will be as new.

 

Only other things to do is check the tps works, that the cts is ok and clean the injectors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Weser

If you want a remanufactured afm get in touch with ATP electronics, not sure on current pricing but was 150 exchange a few years back, will be as new.

 

Only other things to do is check the tps works, that the cts is ok and clean the injectors.

 

Thanks will check them out.

 

This is going to sound very dumb but tps and cts? Are they signals?

 

Edit: just looked at the ATP electronics site. Would a 84-89 afm work on my 92 ph2 Gti? That's all they do.

Edited by Weser

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
S@m

TPS - Throttle position switch.

CTS - Coolant temperature sensor.

 

With regard to the TPS just check that you can here it click at closed throttle and then again at full throttle. If its not clicking as you get off the throttle pedal then the ecu won't have a clue whats going on.

I'm unsure how to check a CTS, a gas analyser would probably help! but i'm sure theres some specific resistance values to look for at certain temps but i'll leave that for someone else to cover.

 

 

Sam

Edited by Sam306

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miles

AFM from 84 will be a 1.6 one, unless there site is up the creak, 1.9's never came until later

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
welshpug

A click from the tps is not enough, you need to get the multimeter out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Weser

Thanks guys. Gives me lots to check now. Probably will be next weekend now.

 

Pretty sure my cts is ok as it's pretty new due to the last one being faulty. As for the tps is there any sort of values is should be looking for or is it mainly just the smooth transition of the voltages?

 

I will check these before I start replacing parts.

 

Anyway of checking if the AFM is working correctly? If the ignition amp is faulty I presume it would cause rough running through the whole rev range.

 

Whilst I'm on a learning spree how do I set the correct ignition timing is that in the Haynes too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
S@m

A click from the tps is not enough, you need to get the multimeter out.

 

No, but it helps! A click at least lets you know its positioned correctly, but as WP says, it doesn't mean its 100% functional, should have said that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Stu

Ive got a couple of blue Bosch amps if you're in need fella. And a later style coil pack (that is known good).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Weser

Ahh cheers Stu. I will go through some of the stuff here and do a setup now that i have found out how to do it in the haynes. If I am still in need after this I will hit you up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Weser

Just to update this a bit:

- I have checked my throttle position sensor and thats working well.

- I have upped my ignition timing a bit and it feels like it pulls better

- I have set the fueling up nicely and that is all good.

- I have checked the vacume advance pipes and they are all good

 

Like I said it has had a refurbed dizzy.

 

However I am still having issues:

- It feels retarded until about 3000rpm like its being restricted. I imagine its feels the same as if there is a parachute on the back of the car but not so serveer. This gets better when its warmed up but you can still feel it.

- Some times you can have your foot to the floor and it will be reving then all of a sudden it stops and just goes down to a low rev. Then it will come back a couple of seconds later. Did this to me while overtaking a lorry the other day. Not great fun!

- Sometimes it decides it doesn't want to start. For no reason. It just turns over and over and if I start pumping the throttle it adventually comes to life but very very sowly. I have to keep pumping until it revs cleanly and then it will be fine.

 

Any ideas on this would be great. I have put up a wanted here: http://forum.205gtid...howtopic=145117 for some parts I want to try.

 

Anyone know where injectors can be refurbed. Is there someone on the forum. Thought there was?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anthony
Mad Professor on the forum does injector refurbs, and certainly I was happy with the service received when I had mine done :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Weser

Just to update I think I have finally sorted my problems with the running issues.

I want to thank everyone who has helped.

 

The 3000rpm issue turned out to be a ignition amp issue.

The other two issues *fingers crossed* seem to be down to a broken wire on the coolant temperature sensor connector. Fixed this yesterday and given it a couple of runs and so far so good. Lets hope it stays that way. Now I can attack the other jobs on my to-do list.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in



Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

×