Mi16 Engine Quick Fix And Be3-1 Gearbox Mod

[205Mi16Mick 1]

Hi All,

 

I thought I would start a thread in this forum for the technical questions I have about my mi16 build as the forum admin request that the technical stuff to be kept out of the projects forum. So here goes.

 

Currently I am building the gearbox, a mix of the BE1 1.9 1st-4th and the BE3 mi16 FD and 5th. Here are my first questions:

 

Can I use the BE3 casing even though most of the guts are from the 1.9?

 

Can I use the BE3 selectors with the 1.9 input shaft?

 

And can I use the mi16 diff with the 1.9 205 driveshafts - they seem to fit nicely in the diff and why pull it apart if it's unnecessary?

 

 

The reason for the "Mi16 Engine Quick Fix" part of the title is because I am only replacing the routine stuff - belts, water pump, and a few seals - I am not really modding the engine. I might advance the inlet cam a little. So after the gbox is done I'll start asking my engine related questions.

 

There are some pics to follow - you know, really exciting pictures of crown wheels and messy workbenches etc.

 

 

Regards,

Michael

[petert 588]

Yes, I'm sure as long as you're using the BE3 case you can fit the BE1 parts. One of the bushes maybe an issue. Confim with Miles.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

Bush varies so you have to try it on 5th, Never found out why the bush's dia changed as I have never bought any new, I just have a selection from box's I have broken over the years

 

Also need to use BE 1 selectors if using BE1 gears etc

 

Casing, you need the late BE1 selector arm seal as fitted to all BE1 Mi16 box's, the early BE1 seal is smaller

[205Mi16Mick 1]

Thanks for the replies. I went and had a play around with the different selectors and now I see why you can't mix and match. Miles, would you be able to sell me the seals I need? Also, from what I can see all the seals can be replaced with the gbox assembled. Is that correct?

 

Regards,

Michael

[205Mi16Mick 1]

So I'm really stuck now. The selector arm shaft from the 1.9 BE1 is much fatter at the seal end and much thinner at the other end than the BE3 one. (Photo 1). So it won't go through the hole in the gbox (Photo 2) and even if it did it would be way too loose a fit in the hole in the other side, so can I use the BE1 gear selector (as in the bottom of Photo 3) with the BE3 finger arrangement that comes off the selector arm (or whatever it is called - the thing in Photo 1)? I have photographed close up the part of them that is different. (Photos 4 and 5)

 

I'd just use the BE1 case if I hadn't broken a bolt in it! And I'd also like to keep the BE3 clutch arrangment.

 

 

Regards,

Michael

 

 

Photo 1:

 

 

 

Photo 2

 

 

 

Photo 3

 

 

 

Photo 4

 

 

 

Photo 5

 

Edited October 4, 2012 by 205Mi16Mick

[205Mi16Mick 1]

Are the photos working for everyone else? They have stopped showing on my pc. And does anyone know about this problem I have encountered please?

 

Regards,

Michael

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

No pics, the main rod hole varies again over the years, cross over around 89 had a large hole but after that it went to the smaller hole so you can only use the other case unless you could enlarge the hole?

Might be easier to remove the broken bolt

[205Mi16Mick 1]

Thanks Miles. I guess it will be easier to use the other case.

[205Mi16Mick 1]

Oh, and should I put lockwires in like the rallyparts site tutorial shows in the pictures? Is that just ordinary fencing wire?

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

For road use lockwire's not needed, Only rallying really as never had a issue on track either, The main issues are the 1st gear locking onto the shaft with heat, Sync clips snapping and 5th gear rivet's popping off

[205Mi16Mick 1]

Ok, so I won't bother then.