A Bit More Plating Porn

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Call me sad if you like, but I find getting a box of stuff back from the platers really exciting!!!

 

[Anthony 1,003]

No prizes for guessing what job you're going to be doing shortly

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

I'll give you that, but who can I/D the oval plate bottom left of the picture??

[stef205 92 1 Cars]

Very nice Tom is it likely to rust up again?

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

Is it the coolant blanking plate on the side of the block, the one you never see from looking in the engine bay?

 

Or the steering rack plate

Edited September 30, 2012 by Paul_13

[Anthony 1,003]

I'll give you that, but who can I/D the oval plate bottom left of the picture??

The plate that goes on the flywheel end of an XU10 engine block? Certainly that's a similar size and shape.

[clen666 2]

Coolant blanking plate is my guess

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

I'm going with steering rack plate

 

Reasoning is, is that i've had mine off recently and it had that dimple in the middle

Edited September 30, 2012 by Paul_13

[cRaig 273 1 Cars]

Yup, I vote steering rack plate as well

[SurGie 54]

Id say the blanking block plate.

 

Sometimes not using the cameras flash gives a better finish to the picture, if thats what it is.

 

I wouldnt call it sad at all, i always look forward to getting some plated bits then fitting them and enjoy the end result. Im due for a load next week.

Edited September 30, 2012 by SurGie

[clen666 2]

Could be right Paul

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Paul is correct, it is the steering rack plate, he wins precisely nothing. Annoyingly I forgot to send it with my last lot of stuff so have been waiting for it to be done so I can finish building my steering rack.

 

I have stripped it right down and then gently sandblasted the alloy casing, then I have lacquered it in clear bare metal lacquer, hopefully this will stop the bare alloy going all white and crusty.

 

[Paul_13 212 1 Cars]

 

[welshpug 1,657]

WOO! SHINY s*it!

[CosKev 16]

Very nice Tom is it likely to rust up again?

 

Yeah.

 

Lasts well on a show/dry weather car,but had some done for my old 309 which I used daily and they were rusty again after using over winter.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

The car this is all destined for is not likely to ever be used in the wet or the winter, I know that the plated stuff will corrode again if exposed to moisture and/or salt.

The brake backplates are actually off to the powder coaters once I have built them onto the trailing arms, the thought process being really doing the plating to try and stop the corrosion, and the powder coat to protect the plate!

[Rippthrough 98]

Lacquer over the top'll help.

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

Paul is correct, it is the steering rack plate, he wins precisely nothing. Annoyingly I forgot to send it with my last lot of stuff so have been waiting for it to be done so I can finish building my steering rack.

 

I have stripped it right down and then gently sandblasted the alloy casing, then I have lacquered it in clear bare metal lacquer, hopefully this will stop the bare alloy going all white and crusty.

 

 

I have been plating and blasting parts on my cars for 8-9 years or more now, and what I do with the alloy casings, mounts etc is blast them with guyson honite grade 14. It's like glass beads and leaves a nice finish on alloy. Then I use frosts diamond clear lacquer on top of them when cleaned down with thinners and the airline. If you put it on in thin coats, it does not go glossy either, so looks very original. Parts are still fresh today on cars and also the diamond clear is heat resistant to 150degrees and petrol resistant Iirc. For the carbs I do, they're just kept wet with wd40 or similar, but your right they will go white if not kept ontop of.

Nice to see other people taking the extra time when properly restoring cars. I thought I was the only one that went into that sort of detail on 205's.

[madspikes 41 1 Cars]

Looking good there

[Edp 67 3 Cars]

I'll give you that, but who can I/D the oval plate bottom left of the picture??

 

 

Steering rack

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

Then I use frosts diamond clear lacquer on top of them when cleaned down with thinners and the airline.

 

I have been using Eastwood Clear Coat for bare metal from Frosts- I am guessing this is similar to the Diamond Clear?

[Redtop 14 2 Cars]

 

 

I have been using Eastwood Clear Coat for bare metal from Frosts- I am guessing this is similar to the Diamond Clear?

 

Yep sounds like the same stuff, white and yellow tin with a pic of a wheel on it by any chance? I know it's Eastwood paint/lacquer that I use.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

It is indeed Diamond clear I have been using, shows just how much attention I had paid to the label on the can!

 

So sadly my lovely gold backplates are no more

 

Instead they are now bolted to their trailing arms, and powdercoated black!

 

 

To some of you this is bread and butter, but it took me a bit of thinking to decide how to best go about these. I didn't want to have the arms done and them bolt the backplates on, as it would mean scraping back the mating surface. Also a dilemma was the stub axles, in particular the rear end that can be seen. I did consider having them plated and then pressing them in but I decided that was a bit too much faff.

So my method in the end was;

Shotblast backplates, have plated in gold zinc. Shotblast trailing arms, soak in de-ox-c as per advice about blasting driving oxides into the cast surface. Bolt backplates to arms with new cap heads and nordlock washers, very small smear of silicone to seal backplates to trailing arms. Clean and dress stub axles in lathe. Light skim to rear face to nice smooth surface (I know what a tart!).

Press stubs in, mask bearing area, have arms powdercoated.

[Tom Fenton 1,541]

In the past I have always removed and binned these, but for my green car I have decided to keep them.

 

[Kezzer30 40 1 Cars]

Going to be totally honest , didnt have a clue hahahah ( had a 205 less than 3 weeks)