Offset Washer Query

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Started to strip down a beam earlier for the first time and made great progress until I went to undo the last couple of fixings - the offset washer end of the torsion bars. The beam is a state so I left those until last as I wasn't looking forward to removing them.

 

I cleaned the ends out and hammered a T40 bit into the end. I managed to snap the bit inside

 

I then thought was the offset washer perhaps meant to be moved before trying to undo the end or was I just unfortunate?

 

What options do I have now to remove it? I can't be the only one who has failed

 

If anyone has a picture of a clean refurbished end so I can visualise what I am facing it would be appreciated.

 

I'm hoping I can perhaps beat the arms off and then force the bars through the arm.

[welshpug 1,655]

use a chisel to rotate the torx screw, once loosened they typically wind out by hand.

 

use a pointy thing to clean out the crud from the groove and a chisel or punch to shift the offset washer to the middle of the hole then carefully lever it out, though if you've cleaned the hole thoroughly enough it'll just drop out.

 

 

 

lots of grease!

 

Edited September 17, 2012 by welshpug

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

Get a small sharp cold chisel. Hit the edge of the countersunk screw to move it anticlockwise. Once you've initially shifted it they will usually wind out by hand.

You need to get it out to move the offset washer to get the bar out of the trailing arm.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

I'm hoping I can remove the remains of the torx bit from the hole so I can get in there and knock it around.

 

What's the idea behind the washer with the offset hole? I'm puzzled why it would be offset.

[Ryan 99]

The offset washer holds the torsion bar in place. When the beam is assembled the washer is rotated into a groove in the end of the trailing arm and the screw tightened. With the the washer locked into the groove it stops the torsion bar from sliding in or out of the trailing arm.

[welshpug 1,655]

pop the chisel on the outer edge of the Torx screw and give it a swift thump, a nice sharp one will dig in and spin the screw easily, though the head is quite shallow so getting the snapped remains of the bit shoudn't be hard.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

pop the chisel on the outer edge of the Torx screw and give it a swift thump, a nice sharp one will dig in and spin the screw easily, though the head is quite shallow so getting the snapped remains of the bit shoudn't be hard.

 

Had some time spare so decided to give this another go. Got the bit out easily but after a good half hour of beating the hell out of the head it won't budge at all. I used my biggest lump hammer and hit it without any regard to my hands holding the chisels. All it would do is knock the head smooth and leave me frustrated

 

This is what I'm left with:

 

 

Going to try a power file on the head next.

[welshpug 1,655]

I'd just pop a 6mm drill bit down the middle then follow with an 8mm if a chisel wont make it turn.

[Tom Fenton 1,540]

Don't drill bigger than 6mm to any depth unless you want to risk drilling the female thread out of the torsion bar.

Drill about 10mm deep with a 6mm. Then go down with a 10mm drill until you break through and drill the head off.

With the tension off the countersunk screw you should then find it will most probably screw out with your fingers.

[katmav 0]

I conquered mine by hammering an allen key into the head of the bolt.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

It's frustrating as the other ends were just as rust covered to start with but turned almost effortlessly.

 

Thanks for the advice Mei. In theory when the head is removed and the washer is able to slide I can pop that out and then when the bars are removed I can get some grips on the remaining stud from inside the TB.

[chipstick 382 1 Cars]

Don't drill bigger than 6mm to any depth unless you want to risk drilling the female thread out of the torsion bar.

Drill about 10mm deep with a 6mm. Then go down with a 10mm drill until you break through and drill the head off.

With the tension off the countersunk screw you should then find it will most probably screw out with your fingers.

 

Ah didn't see this when I posted.

 

Depth was a concern, so I'll note the ~10mm advice

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

get a decent blow torch on it then hit the b*****d with ya lump hammer n cold chisel itll shift a piece of piss then

Edited September 24, 2012 by Slo

[stef205 92 1 Cars]

Chisel the bugger then bin it, I just use a normal m8 bolt in all my beams

 

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