[car_restoration] Project Shades Of Grey, A Complete Overhaul Modifica

[SurGie 54]

Here are a few pictures of these areas once primered with the Jotun 87 again >

 

 

 

Inside the seating area before painting, the tape was there for painting underneath >

 

 

 

 

Some pictures of the painted seat areas etc >

 

[SurGie 54]

 

George

[Daviewonder 533 3 Cars]

Ah it all makes sense now.

 

I read this in another topic-

 

Never heard of it, been a while since ive been to the movies or anywhere good, no cash no time due to shades of grey lol.

 

I assumed you'd turned a bit fruity and were reading the books

 

 

 

 

Looks like an awesome job you're doing there though George, looking forward to more updates

[SurGie 54]

Yep, got it in one mate

 

I dont need to read those books, the GF read them all twice and tells me what they're all about in one sentence just about. The project title is more to do with the cars theme and colour 'etc'.

 

Thanks Dave, nice of you to say

 

I'll try to update it as soon as i can, the next update will be the rear beam area and boot.

[GLPoomobile 958]

Maybe you should have called it "50 shades of rust"

[SurGie 54]

Not any more it aint

[SurGie 54]

Just before last winter i fitted some insulation to the garage door, so at least the temp will stay nice and level for the paint to dry quicker >

 

 

 

Here is the beam and boot floor area before the derusting had started >

 

 

Here is the original yellow Peugeot painted their beams with, although dirty you can see which type of yellow it is, not bright more burnt yellow/orange shade >

 

 

More to follow

[SurGie 54]

A few inner boot pictures and re-welding >

 

 

 

 

Here's the pictures of the job after 3 or so weeks, compared to the front floor pan this was a lot harder to achieve the same sort of clean steel finish, took more than two more weeks as well >

 

 

 

More to follow

[SurGie 54]

 

There was still a little unmovable rust around but the Jotun 87 is designed to seal them in away from the air and water.

 

Below is one side, ie the worse side of the car's bump stop section. I wasn't sure whether to re-plate it due to the big rust caused hole or tap a new thread in. The original bolt had seized so it had to be drilled out. After the advice from Tom Fenton, i tapped it and it was successful, i was worried during because the captive nut inside was moving quite a bit, it might have broken free. I weld filled the hole then ground it back >

 

 

All fitted with about 15mm taken off so the suspension an gain a little more movement >

 

 

George

[allye 530 3 Cars]

Please update this more often! (even though they are daily updates any how) Can't wait to see the rest of it come together!

[SurGie 54]

Here you go allye, just a quick one before im off to bed.

 

After all the grinding/cleaning etc, here are the results after 3 coats of the Jotun 87 was applied everywhere underneath, i do like the finish it gives, like stonechip but smoother using a roller. Spraying it would have filled the rust pits and look smooth due to it having a high solid content and low sag, however i find spraying makes it harder to reach every last bit, much easier with the roller for me. The boot had 2 coats as it wont get as much damage to its surface compared to the chassis.

 

 

The rear floor >

 

 

 

 

Can anyone tell what's missing in this picture ?

 

 

I'll post the answer, thanks for the comments and for looking through

[Liquid_106 97 1 Cars]

Can anyone tell what's missing in this picture ?

Rust?

Edited October 8, 2012 by Liquid_106

[SurGie 54]

good answer, not right though

 

This section has been cut out, when done they weighed about 1kg with sealant on as well. I cant see any real reason for this extra section of the inner rear wing apart from it stopping dirt and water getting into the rear chassis section. So for this reason, ill be making myself some rear rubber/plastic mud guards bolted in to stop the rear wheels spraying dirty water into the areas. The rear arches have not been sorted, they are due to get sorted and coated at a later date as they are in a rust free condition.

 

 

At first, the reason for removal was for easier access into the rear bump stop straight line cavity sections, it was quite rusty and full of badly applied sealant. That part of it all was the most annoying section, so glad when it was finished.

 

[SurGie 54]

Another quick update >

 

A cheeky photo of the engine bay before clear coat, pretty chuffed with the paint finish of the engine bay, pity the clear coat isn't as good >

 

 

Here after two coats of the truck bed liner 'Raptor' 2k paint, i rushed that part of the painting tbh >

 

 

Here are a few pictures of the finished rear chassis floor after a few coats of base coat, some plated (electroless nickel) nuts and parts. Other brackets were sandblasted then painted in 2k epoxy primer with 2k silver/black paint as top coat >

 

 

 

Boot floor, i'm just about to fit the hole blanks with Tiger seal >

 

 

The boot floor will have some Dynamat sound proofing, the Jotun 87 and Raptor both have sound proofing abilities, the Raptor especially.

 

I think next up will be the mechanicals, inc suspension / engine / detailing etc. Might be a few days though as i need a rest, computer does my eyes in

 

George

[allye 530 3 Cars]

Wear some glasses or something! Get those pictures up

[SurGie 54]

Its not just about the pictures though

 

I have to be on the computer to download the pictures, glasses are what im trying to avoid needing

 

Photobucket is hard work, twice its messed up wiping the post redirecting the forum page etc. I'll try to get one done on Wednesday at some point.

 

Cheers

[SurGie 54]

Bit of an update, been a bit busy of late but managed to find some time today for this update >

 

Now all the engine bay, floor, rear chassis has all been sorted, here are a few pictures of the parts to be fitted etc. Here are the before and after pictures of the fuel tank >

 

Before >

 

 

After a quick clean >

 

 

After another good clean then i applied some plasticare, please excuse the mother in laws old linen >

 

 

 

Here is the front floor after the heat shield, fuel pipe fixings were fitted >

 

 

I got the front engine bay shield anodised, although i didnt get it super shiny beforehand, so it looks a bit dull like original i think. The floor shield in the picture has been cleaned etc but will get it super clean, shiny and polished before getting that anodised when i renew/treat the exhaust system in future plans.

 

George

[SurGie 54]

Update time my fellow Pug lovers

 

Up next is the front sub-frame. I wanted it to gain some more stiffness, so i attempted to stitch weld it. The first attempt was pretty poor, i didnt want to leave it that way so i put the effort in and re-stitch welded it and with the second attempt i gained much better weld penetration.

 

Here it is after a good clean, although not as clean as it should have been as the oil inside the spot welded edges made the welding more difficult, i recommend it to be fully stripped and cleaned before attempting to weld it >

 

 

Here is the poor weld attempt >

 

 

Here is the second attempt >

 

 

The weld penetration >

 

 

I then got the frame sandblasted then coated in car epoxy primer then epoxy top coat via a local painting place. I could have had it powder coated but what put me off this coating is the fact that powder coating although is an epoxy substance, it is only one layer. Painting it in many layers means that if there was a chip in the coating it still has other layers to protect from rust. Powder coating once chipped will start to rust and water then gets underneath causing more rust.

 

Coloured epoxy top coats do tend to chalk out after a few years in UV light losing its shininess, i found this out after the subframe was painted. I dont think mine will suffer from this chalking due to it being out of the UV light being in the engine bay.

 

Here are the final finished sub frame pictures >

 

 

The painters had left the frame in the oven to burn off any remaining oils and grease build up inbetween the seams.

 

George

[SurGie 54]

Update time

 

At first i had painted a lot of the brackets and fixing myself using the aluminium VHT paint. Although all these parts as others have now been painted using the 2k epoxy primer then 2k paint via my local painting place at a very good price >

 

 

I have left the lower mount in the VHT paint, it may need some better primer and paint at a later date in future. The lower part of the wing mount has been 2k painted as they do tend to rust underneath >

 

 

I have the whole BBM engine mount set as part of this conversion.

 

Here i welded some new bolts for the strut tops, i had drilled the strut tops 10mm as i will be fitting some fancy top mounts that use 8mm bolts, once i get these coilovers very soon http://www.kamracing...-coilovers.html.

 

 

I read that superglue could be used to the same effect, although superglue isn't as super as it says, it will end up breaking down, then i would have trouble trying to undue the top nuts when i change to the above coilovers, so welded them up.

 

Here is the pedal box again in the VHT paint, these were done at the beginning of this project before i knew that there are more superior paints out there >

 

 

More to follow

[SurGie 54]

I bought a new recon steering rack and went to the forums recommended Shenpar place, they fitted a new Quaife quick steering rack and used the new reconditioned one for the seal and rack arms etc, the old arms were very bad looking. What im told from Paul13 is its a bit hard to use but after all this work on the car and my job im sure my wrists can cope . Then once this job was sorted i painted the rack here >

 

 

Here is the servo, i wanted a really good finish so had to respray it twice again due to a few mishaps. The last most annoying bit was when i was fitting the clutch cable and somehow it retracted and swung over and hit it with the end which chipped a bit off . The arms of the rack had been VHT painted but since then its been zinc primed with red enamel top coat, no pictures of this though >

 

 

The master cylinder is the bigger 406 variant to cope with the VTS brakes front and rear, this was painted in the VHT at first but once the engine was fitted it had scratched it off a bit, so now its been epoxy primed with the usual 2k top coat silver/aluminium colour.

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

The theme colour of my 205 GTI project is red, aluminium and a touch of gold colouring as well a few shades of other grey's from other car manufacturers, that will be shown in other updates.

 

More to come whilst i have the time too before my shift starts

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

On your top mount plates you should have removed the old stud weld bosses and then welded your new bolts directly to the plate. Would make a much neater job.

[SurGie 54]

Thanks Tom, i did rush that job a bit.

 

At the time i had used some pretty useless drill bits and it took ages, wish i had the cobalt drill bits back then as they are really good drills. These new welded bolts and strut top mounts are only a temporary measure till i get to buy the new coilovers and adjustable top mounts from BBM around the beginning of next year time. When they got fitted to the cars strut they look pretty straight even though one or so i think is a bit wonky before fitting.

 

>>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Here is the new engine loom from Miles, ive added some amalgamating electrical tape etc to tidy it up a bit, also more pics of the servo etc >

 

 

Here is the rear water bottle with some plasticare after a good clean >

 

 

Another cheeky picture of the engine bay >

 

 

More to follow

[SurGie 54]

Here i found another picture of the steering rack >

 

 

>>>>>>>>>>>

 

Up next are the VTS brakes, the before and after pictures.

 

When i bought them as part of the engine conversion package they had been painted but not very well, the paint was layered on, i had trouble fitting the pads. So for this reason i decided to get them painted in the 2k epoxy then 2k red paint, i did originally just wanted them as was.

 

Before trying to fit pads >

 

 

I searched for quite a while for a particular shade of red i wanted, then before i gave up i managed to find this >

 

 

Its called 'Colorado red' which comes in 2k as well as other types. I find its a deep, crisp, rich red, thats far from being close to pink or too dark thats close to burgundy.

 

Here are the calipers once painted >

 

 

They have also had some 2k high build primer, so the castings look really smooth like the more expensive sort of calipers. The rear parts of the calipers have had the same treatment but are not in the pictures.

 

Here are the calipers with the pads fitted >

 

 

These front calipers although are hardly used (this will be explained at a later date), i fitted some new seals and put some silicone grease in the sliders. This red colour shade has also been used for the front 309 ARB, of which will post pictures at a later date. The same colouring will be used on the new thicker new torsion bars etc.

 

The caliper pictures of red wont look the same as the GT500 picture of red due to the light etc.

 

I do want an air fad mask so i can do all the 2k painting myself but funds for this and another compressor will have to wait.

 

I know most like to see high spec mechanical work etc but what do you think of my efforts so far ?

 

Cheers George

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

Hat's off for your efforts, keep up the good work (and updates)!

[SurGie 54]

Thanks a lot cybernck, as its a little quiet on the forum tonight and ive been let down by friends on plans to go out ill make another update on the same day

 

Here are a few pictures of the parts fitted to the engine bay before the engine gets fitted, sorry about the first picture, it went a bit funny >

 

 

 

I did all the plumbing after the engine was fitted, it was a bit more difficult but its just the way it went. I even managed with difficulty, to spray under the windscreen area. Before the engine was fitted, i had a new windscreen fitted with the original blue strip tinted. Although i never put any silicone grease around the screens frame for water protection yet due to plans for a total respray next year at some point, i dont want any possible paint side effects if i did it at this point.

 

With the British weather we always seem to get, the chance of using this car when it isn't going to rain is near on impossible, i will be using it in the summer/winter apart from really bad weather. So i hope the effort ive put in into research of paints ive used will stop the rust coming back any time soon. I have 3 sets of wheels/alloys for this project, one set will be for winter driving where the temperature is quite low and can cope with the ice and a little snow.

 

Here is the link to my other forum thread all about the plating nuts, bolts, washers, & many other bits for this project/beam/ engine bay detailing etc >

 

http://forum.205gtid...howtopic=138958

 

The very few bolts i didnt get plated like the battery tray will be coated using the clear wax from Bilt Hamber. Plating parts had to be done in sections, as i would never know what a lot of them are meant to be used for.

 

Ive probably been a bit anal with this project but i want something that will last and look well presented. It wasn't the plan i had in mind at first, but once on the slippery slop i just could not stop, and boy does my wallet show this

 

More interesting updates coming soon

 

George