[car_restoration] Matts Standard 1.9 Lazer

[m@ttc 30]

Well its been a long time since my last update, due to my misses deciding it time to renovate the kitchen and taking a hammer to some internal walls she wanted removing. This led to a massive, massive job and the car got put on the back burner for a while.

 

The rust removed areas have held out really well over the winter and im really quite happy about that as it was left in just primer.

 

I have been doing some retail therapy to help keep interest going. Parts ive collected are. New rear quarter badges (blank), silver 1.9 gti decals for them to match the trim inserts, brand new rear bumper (thanks farmer) dark green seats belts, new oil filler bottle and cap.

 

I was going to update the work i had done to the wiring looms, repaired cleaned new plugs terminals etc, but sadly they was stolen out of my shed along with my radiator and alloy speedlines. Im currently in conversation with a member on here to replace the looms.

 

ive not had that much time on the shell but what i have done is as follows.

 

Driver's seat bolster had come through the floor pan, dunno how this has happend i dont weigh that much.

 

 

 

cut out section to reveal rusted area and repaired.

 

 

 

 

 

just started repairing the area under the passengers side rear seats, yesterday its not quite done yet i need to dress the welds back and make it look pretty.

 

 

 

 

 

I think i have good penetration through the metal? Here's a pic of the underside of the repair. (please advise if not im teaching myself welding)

 

 

 

 

 

[m@ttc 30]

Im getting a bit side tracked with a beam i brought off a member it was totally seized, but was happy to take it at a knocked down price. What i found appealing about it was the exterior of the can looked in great condition much better than the one i serviced for the car, which has done less than 100 miles on the car and in perfect mechanical condition. Sadly the inside of the can is another story.

 

beams. my good ones on the right, which could be repainted really and just stuck back on the car.

 

 

 

stripped purchased beam, bearings and shafts are shot, solid bushes removed.

 

 

 

 

bearing hosing is also damaged, i plan on welding it up and reboring it back to size (not sure of correct size to bore to yet)

 

 

[m@ttc 30]

Photo update of today's work.

 

 

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Dunno how I'm going to make the holes recess form yet. Couldn't punch the weld out from behind on the rear seat area for access, that's why you can see the weld so much but I'm happy it's good enough. Better than being able to see the road anyway????

[johniban 59 1 Cars]

What are the 5 holes that look like welding blow throughs?

[m@ttc 30]

That's where the spot welds were onto the panel that goes beneath. I will use these holes to weld through when I've got the rear panel on.

[m@ttc 30]

done some more on the rear seat areas this weekend

 

 

 

ive managed to get around forming the hole's recess, by cutting a piece out of a spare piece of boot floor, the hole is slightly bigger in the boot section but im happy with it and wont be noticeable once the bungs back in.

 

 

 

spent ages removing rust from this area using deox gel and a wire wheel attachment.

 

 

 

this parts still got to be welding in once im happy with the rust control.

 

[m@ttc 30]

Also been doing some serious rust removing on the beam, soaking it in deox c for 24hrs then wire brushing. Its taken about 4 soakings per side to get this far.

 

 

 

And ive been to the paint shop and got the beam color matched. I have sprayed it in the center of the photo were its shiny as its not dry, just to test the match and it think it looks pretty good so i'm gonna strip it back and clean and paint it.

 

 

Id like to get the red bars color matched to but there's no red left on them to match it to.

Just sick of rust at the moment takes to long to get rid of and delays progress.

Edited April 12, 2015 by m@ttc

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

The yellow of the beam tube should be a satin not gloss finish. I also had paint mixed to do mine with a 10% gloss. Came out great. The torsion bars were originally a Matt red oxide type colour. I had mine powdercoated red.

 

[m@ttc 30]

looks good tom, i went for mat not gloss its only looks shiny because i had just sprayed it and its still wet. will it be a big difference between mat and satin?

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

I'm sure it will look fine buddy.

[m@ttc 30]

bit more done.

got the rear piece on and gave it a coat of red oxide paint

 

 

 

inside view

 

 

started on the drivers side, just need to clean welds up and paint, then onto the next rusty area.

 

[m@ttc 30]

well its been a long time since ive done anything on this project but new year new motivation (hopefully)

these shots are from may last year, ive not done anything on the shell since that time.

 

drivers side rear seat area finished.

underneath view.

 

 

inside view

 

 

assembled front suspension with new kits and gaiters from dealers.

 

 

 

 

now ive moved onto refurbing the rear calipers. All stripped down casings had corrosion removed and painted. New seal kits and sliders,and one new piston.

 

[stepples 2]

Stick with it mate, enjoyed reading through your progress.

[m@ttc 30]

Thanks steeples.

Got my calipers back together, compressing the belleville washers wasn't easy, que an old bumper bar and old wheel bearing race, couple of pieces of althread and a old socket, cut to allow the leaver to pass through.

 

 

 

In the slider pins housings there's three grooves, and I thought there should be o'rings in two of them. So I used some spare o'rings I have to do so as there was only two in the kits for each caliper. Now I'm thinking whether I should have just put one o'rings in the middle groove? If that makes sense.

 

Also I brought two new stainless steel bleed nipples which I think might be the wrong size. In the pic you can see there's a lot of thread sticking out when screwed fully in resulting with only about three threads holding it in the casing.

Edited January 3, 2016 by m@ttc

[dawning 11]

Very nice work.

Did you get the top mounting kit from peugeot? When I asked them they said they where no longer available. Although they seem to be everywhere as they are used on the C15 as far as I am aware. I bought the SKF kit from ebay which is just the bearing and the rubber for £22.15, how much was your kit with all the plates if you don't mind me asking? Not keen on SKF as I bought a brand new driveshaft from them that didn't work.

[m@ttc 30]

Very nice work.

Did you get the top mounting kit from peugeot? When I asked them they said they where no longer available. Although they seem to be everywhere as they are used on the C15 as far as I am aware. I bought the SKF kit from ebay which is just the bearing and the rubber for £22.15, how much was your kit with all the plates if you don't mind me asking? Not keen on SKF as I bought a brand new driveshaft from them that didn't work.

 

Hi dawning, I brought the kits back in December 2012 and had them on a shelf ever since ( see post 17 )

Really cannot remember what I paid for them.

[m@ttc 30]

Managed to remove my tailgate screen, on my own in the shed with no mishaps. Proud moment for me.

 

Inserted welding wire

 

 

Heated up sealant with a hot are gun and pull.

 

 

I did find it better to heat the sealant on the glass side

 

And glass comes out

 

 

Cleaned up glass and put it in storage.

This is why I had to remove it. Quite badly rusted in the glass recess where it's bonded in.

Actually rotted through in on area.

 

 

Im not sure whether its worth repairing to keep it more original or fit this tailgate it's a lot less rusty, just seems to be pepperd with little rust spots.

 

 

Cleaned up the recess, looks like rust starts on the spot welds, which is quite common place for rust to start all over the car I have found.

This is the worst area on the tailgate.

 

Edited February 22, 2016 by m@ttc

[m@ttc 30]

I had some quite decent front ball joint protectors, so used them to make some new ones.

 

[m@ttc 30]

Had a crazy decision to strip the power steering pump to see if all was good and make it look pretty.

I've managed to sorce most parts now just one seal left to get. I have been quoted £30 of pound for the seal and £60 odd pound to have it delivered.

 

 

Pre filter

 

 

Housing cleaned up and painted.

 

 

[And 15 1 Cars]

That is some work, it's looking good.

When you come to paint the underside I would recommend raptor from u-pol it's a 2k paint stone chip look put on with a underseal gun comes in black or clear (to be overpainted) or mix your colour in and do it in one its load liner paint so it's tuff once fully hard.

[m@ttc 30]

Thanks And, I've never done any painting before I was just going to take it to a body shop once all the weldings finished.

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

I reckon you could do a perfectly good job of the underneath and wheelarches, then you can bolt the suspension on and it can go to the paint shop as a rolling shell?

 

Your balljoint protectors look good, but I hope they were not too much work, you could have bought a pair of stainless ones from me, I've about 40 pairs....!

[m@ttc 30]

I reckon you could do a perfectly good job of the underneath and wheelarches, then you can bolt the suspension on and it can go to the paint shop as a rolling shell?

 

Your balljoint protectors look good, but I hope they were not too much work, you could have bought a pair of stainless ones from me, I've about 40 pairs....!

Sounds like a plan I like that idea

 

The protectors were no trouble at all to make. I only realised you sold them after the program was written, so I went ahead and cut them out.

[m@ttc 30]

The original beam. It was bad!

 

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Looking at that, the tube will be scrap I'm afraid.