[car_restoration] 405 T16 Restoration

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Have been working some more on this rusty crappy shell now.

 

Rust in front left arch cut out:

 

 

Also rear left inner arch had rust between plate and boot floor...

 

 

The worst however (apart from left front arch which is fixed already) is the rear left arch... It seem that I might need to remove the strengthener part that the front mount of the rear subframe bolts too.. because the plate going underneath it is so rusted... bashed two holes through it with a screwdriver quite easily...

 

 

Not much motivation of such discoveries, just a lot more work.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

One more picture of the pistons.

 

They are indeed very light, I could not find any lighter ones suitable for this engine.

 

 

About uprated gudgeon pins.. are they using ones with more metal (ie.. heavier)? Or just uprated material quality? I think I'll end up just using the ones that came with the pistons though...

[Guest davetibbs]

Loving these updates

 

What car were the pistons for, out of interest?

[cammmy 1]

Good work. Nice to see you saving this beastie

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Thanks guys, it's been more than two years of hard work up till now.

 

The pistons are from a Honda engine. They have 21cc dish and are 87mm bore.

 

Needed to get custom rods to use them though.

[welshpug 1,661]

what size are the pins? are they standard bore for the honda?

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Pins are 22mm if I remember correctly.

 

And I think the bore is std. Honda at 87mm (I think also 87.5 and 88mm was avaliable).

 

I believe this is the same ones:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K622M87-Wiseco-Tur...=item35a7636aa6

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Have been cutting away some more metal to try to get an impression how bad it is on the left rear side.

 

 

Seem the whole bump stop bracket must go off and also outer layer of metal must off to get to the rust which is on the second metal layer...

 

Got a little tired of rust so prepped the steering rack instead, will paint it and put new gaitors, inner- and outer joints in place..

 

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

As I already said the 405 casing must be used so internals from xsara rack must be switched over if that's the plan (I'm not 100% sure it fits but it's quite likely it will )

 

I painted the rack today, metallic and 2 component laquer afterwards.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Got some new parts for the rack too, still missing one rod end but hey it's not a hurry yet

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Steering rack is now refurbed.

 

 

Also grit blasted the rear diff mounting bracket.

 

 

Apart from that not much progression, it's -20 deg these days so not too nice to be in garage

 

Pauters will be arriving this week

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Pauter rods arrived

 

 

 

 

 

They even seem to fit

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Started to clean the T16 block.. it was a bastard to remove the big pipe that goes though the block in front and down to sump, ended up totally destroying it before I got it out.. anyone know what's attached to it? 2.5cm diameter metal pipe?

 

Decided not to sandblast the block as I really don't wanna get any sand and dirt into oil channels. Just get away the worst rust by using a rotating steel brush and will just slap on some black hammerite.

 

 

Some brackets I powdercoated.. very handy to avoid all the crap that comes with normal spray paint.

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Painted engine block now.

 

 

Shotblasted the rockercover

 

 

And started cleaning the head. didn't seem like it had got many oil changes as everything in the camshaft area was very dark colored, put it in a diesel bath so maybe it will dissolve.

 

 

[petert1345402284 0]

Nice work. I've been missing this as I haven't been logging on.

 

Gudgeon pins for turbo engines are sometimes parallel rather than tapered. So upgrade if you're going to make big hp.

 

I've been able to buy pinion seal kits (thanks Jeff) for the steering rack. They come with upper, lower and stack seals. It's quite easy to remove the upper seal if you have a lathe and a four jaw chuck. Set it up on centre then, rotate chuck by hand with a sharp and pointy tool to remove the swaging. The swaging retains the hardened steel washer. The same kit fits 205. I'd never refit a rack now without changing the seals.

 

The oil return pipe is a bugger to remove from the block. It's only pressed in. Heat will help. You really need to make a tool from aluminium that fits down the centre, which you can hit with a hammer, for both removing and installing.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Thanks Peter.

 

The pins are parallell indeed, but why upgrade to tapered ones?

Anyway if I recall Ziga correct he said the uprated ones also were parallell but with thicker walls.

 

About the rack I don't totally get which seals you talk about, is it within the part that has all the hydraulic pipes connected to it?

 

About the oil pipe, it was bashed to death, I will use one from a diesel which has an o-ring and is easier to put in and out, hopefully it will work, but haven't looked into it too much yet.

 

I thought you were following the thread on the T16 forum btw., but guess you're not much active on there anymore.

 

Are you still selling the sump extender kits?

 

 

 

Nice work. I've been missing this as I haven't been logging on.

 

Gudgeon pins for turbo engines are sometimes parallel rather than tapered. So upgrade if you're going to make big hp.

 

I've been able to buy pinion seal kits (thanks Jeff) for the steering rack. They come with upper, lower and stack seals. It's quite easy to remove the upper seal if you have a lathe and a four jaw chuck. Set it up on centre then, rotate chuck by hand with a sharp and pointy tool to remove the swaging. The swaging retains the hardened steel washer. The same kit fits 205. I'd never refit a rack now without changing the seals.

 

The oil return pipe is a bugger to remove from the block. It's only pressed in. Heat will help. You really need to make a tool from aluminium that fits down the centre, which you can hit with a hammer, for both removing and installing.

 

[petert1345402284 0]

sorry, I meant if you had taper pins upgrade them to parallel.

 

the pinion seal is in the top, as pictured.

 

yes, still have the pump extenders

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Ok, good, I'll have one of those extenders then, probably december time when I can get some extra payment

 

This project just seem to suck my wallet empty too early each month!

 

Btw, regarding the pins, I called the Wiseco dealer and he said that 500bhp was not a problem at all with the standard pins that comes with the piston set. So I guess it's not necessary to upgrade them then

Edited October 23, 2011 by B1ack_Mi16

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Started welding again today.. finally after a long time with no motivation for that kind of work.

 

Right front arch where I cut out some rust earlier...

 

Welded in new metal in the main member.

 

 

Made template for lower outer panel

 

 

Cut out a metal piece

 

 

Welded it in..

 

 

And shaped ut while welding part after part

 

 

Started to sandblast the 1.9 rocker cover.. but the 1.9 ones have a much tougher paint so it would have taken forever..

 

Started with chemicals instead

 

 

Guess tomorrow I can blast away the remains that'll be there.

 

 

Time to go to bed

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Ok, need to look into this sometime

 

now I have worked more on the car and finished welding right front arch and also welded up the hole I cut in the rear right arch.

 

 

 

 

also had to make a new bracket for the plastic protector in the rear arch, old one was more or less rotted away.

 

 

Then I blasted the Mi16 rocker

 

 

Painted wishbones

 

 

And diff bracket

 

 

Then cleaned head a little bit more..

 

 

It seem to be bent a bit... so not sure if I will use it, will check out one S16 head I have first, maybe it's a better base for the build.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Not much new. Cleaned car a bit and getting ready to turn it over on it's side to deal with rust underneath it...

 

Also got some Coupe V6 brake discs in the mail today.

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

GAZ coilovers arrived today

 

 

Nothing much new otherwise, waiting for some people to be able to help me turn the car over on it's side.. seem to be hard to gather people for such things during the olympics...

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

I finally got some help and got the car turned around.

 

It seem I have to change quite a bit of metal underneath the rear part of it.. will get pics of that later.

 

Just some from the turning process

 

 

 

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[B1ack_Mi16 67]

And here we go again regarding rust...

 

Started cutting some today underneath it.

 

Seem like it's gonna be enough work for me for some months...

Can't believe how much rust I find everywhere.

 

Hopefully most 405's ain't this bad..

 

 

 

 

 

Also at the front left side I unexpected found problems...

It's just behind the subframe mount.

 

 

I've bought two new parts, the members going under the bootfloor.

 

But the triangiulation brackets (one of the I now have cut out) can't be bought anymore, so gotta make it from scratch.

 

Also I guess I have to cut out and replace significant amoounts of the "main rear member".

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

After some days with bad motivation I've been working some more on the pile of rust.

 

Started removing the last beam under the boot floor.

 

 

The replacement parts

 

 

Started also to chop away some metal from the main rear member, still not sure what to do to sort this out properly.

 

Also have removed the sound deadening from the boot, nasty job, the sound deadening material seem to be like bunker oil or something, melts when heated up.

 

Found more rust under the car at front.. left side of the car, not sure how serious this issue is yet, but it doesn't seem good.

 

At last I started to clean off the after market "rust treatment" that had been sprayed on at some time. Front of car looks more or less ok apart from the rust above. Why couldn't Peugeot just applied this underseal at the rear part of the car too, would have saved a lot of rust problems I think.

 

All for now, lots of work remaining to get this bugger up to a healthy standard.