4x4 Rear Suspension On Fwd Car?

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

As topic says..

 

Is this straight forward, or is it some slight differences in the chassi/fuel tank that makes it difficult?

 

I'm dead tired of the rear torsion bar suspension that gets worn out faster than you can say chocolate cake and was wondering if there might be a better idea using a 4x4 rear suspension.

 

After all it's easier to change the roller bearings on these than to keep buying complete new rear subframes to get one with unworn bearing shafts for the FWD setup...

 

Anyone?

[cammmy 1]

Would the lack of a diff or driveshafts matter?

[imaS 0]

Front mount of the rear subframe is different design between 2wd and 4wd. Also the mounting points are not the same. Check from attachments.

The diff and the driveshafts are not needed. Just use outside part from the outer CV-joints to keep wheelbearing compressed.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Does anyone have an idea which type of rear set up did the BTCC touring 405 use?

Obviously they were homologated FWD cars, but they would never achieve that much lowering with the stock rear beam, simply not possible due to the "ears" within which the torsion bars move.

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

So the chassi is really that different?

I never had thought that.

 

Need to do some investigation / measurements then

[pugnut405 0]

The bodyshells of the 4x4 and FWD cars are different. Quite what the difference is I'm not sure but there must be a reason??

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

True enough.

 

I thought it was mostly down to small details around fueltank area and slightly bigger tunnel so that both exhaust and prop-shaft would fit under the car.

Never dreams of pick-up points for suspension was different.

[Roland1345402284 0]

True enough.

 

I thought it was mostly down to small details around fueltank area and slightly bigger tunnel so that both exhaust and prop-shaft would fit under the car.

Never dreams of pick-up points for suspension was different.

 

 

When I bolted my 4x4 stuff into my 2wd car I found no difference at all other than for the tank mounts for the 4x4 tank.

This applies for both the Mi16x4 and the Glx4 subframes - which are the same anyway! (just different diff internals)

 

While the front mount of the 4x4 subframe is different compared to the 2wd mount, it (the 4x4 subframe) bolts straight in to the existing points in the 2wd car. (All mounting points lined perfectly up in my car anyway!)

Correct about the tunnel though. - It is bigger on the left side to allow for a differently aligned exhaust.

The tank is different to allow for the driveshaft. The tank is also deeper and hangs down more below the floor level. This is to counter the loss of volume due to the driveshaft. Because of this the mounting straps for the fuel tank are different - trial fit one - you will see what I mean.

 

If you intend to only use the 4x4 subframe and take out the diff and driveshafts and have the car as a 2wd then it should be a simple swap of the old subframe out and the new one in. I do remember that the 2wd tank gets in the way of the 4x4 subframe and therefore you will have to use the 4x4 tank. Other than that, the only thing you might have to have a look at is the exhaust alignment around the different subframe.

 

 

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Exactly what I wanted to hear

 

I still have to see if I will go through with it thoug, it's just a cheap daily driver and it will be a little bit of work when I start thinking of handbrake wires, brake calipers etc..

 

But good to know it's possibe!

[cammmy 1]

I should mention that BX's have their own rear beam bearing issues (and the 4bie is a modified BX setup)

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

Yeah, I know.

 

I already am working on restoring a 405 T16 from scratch, but I still think the 4bie setup is easier to fix as it's just to buy new bearings.

 

The FWD rear beam needs new bearings and usually also new subframe which is insanely expensive.

 

 

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Here in Ukraine we never buy new rear beams.

 

We have dedicated restoration services where you return the worn bare beam and receive a fully reconditioned beam for about USD200.

 

This has become a routine exercise. And if you are on top of changing the bearings in time, usually you don't have to worry about changing the beam too often.