Uprated Gearbox Mount

[chris adams 0]

right folks im gettin to the stage where i need to fit the engine to my bay and i plan on using group n engine mounts which im shortly to order from mr baker i already have the lower mount and i didnt buy a full kit as there was no specific mount for the gearbox on the 405 what has everbody else done to get round this are they the same as 205/309 or 306. need reply asap so i can get these ordered.

Edited January 4, 2011 by mi8 turbo

[Jer309GTi 3]

I know for a fact that the phase 1 Mi16 uses the 205/309 Grp N mounts as that is what I had on mine, as for the phase 2 I'd imagine they are the same but wouldnt like to say for sure

[chris adams 0]

I know for a fact that the phase 1 Mi16 uses the 205/309 Grp N mounts as that is what I had on mine, as for the phase 2 I'd imagine they are the same but wouldnt like to say for sure

 

so 205/309 it is then as mine is h plate thanks for reply much appreciated

[John 0]

Gearbox mount is the same as for 205s.

[petert1345402284 0]

Ph2 engine mounts are definitely different to Ph1/205.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

I am using a full Group N kit from BakerBM (for 205/309) on my 1987 405 - works fantastic. No fitting problems.

 

You WILL also need to fit a third top buffer to stop the alternator from hitting the chassis in fast left turns.

[chris adams 0]

I am using a full Group N kit from BakerBM (for 205/309) on my 1987 405 - works fantastic. No fitting problems.

 

You WILL also need to fit a third top buffer to stop the alternator from hitting the chassis in fast left turns.

 

does the engine really move that much that it touches the chassis ??? i am surprised.

[John 0]

Ph2 engine mounts are definitely different to Ph1/205.

 

I got a 94 405 and all mounts from the 205 kit fits except the top buffers which sadly is mounted on a plate which holds both, unlike the 205 where the buffers are mounted indivdually. I guess you could modify this plate pretty easily if you wanted them to fit (eg. burn the old rubber off and drill some holes to mount new ones up).

 

Be ready for some nasty vibrations though. Havent really done a lot to prevent it, but atm the interior, the hood and the grille are really making hard rattles. As for movement its pretty much out of the questions with this kit fitted.

Edited January 5, 2011 by John

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

I am using a full Group N kit from BakerBM (for 205/309) on my 1987 405 - works fantastic. No fitting problems.

 

You WILL also need to fit a third top buffer to stop the alternator from hitting the chassis in fast left turns.

 

does the engine really move that much that it touches the chassis ??? i am surprised.

 

Yes it does. And it is a common problem with both 405 and 205mi16 - the alternator will hit the chassis. I can post pictures of my chassis arm with pulley marks on it.

 

It is that much of a problem that my car almost caught fire during last summer rally race.

Due to engine play in the bay the high pressure oil supply hose metal fitting in the PAS system had a tiny crack - and in a split second all PAS oil flew out of the pump. As you know, it is located near the exhaust manifold. You can guess what happened next. a good 6 feet of flames behind the car.

 

Also, the gear rods will pop out during racing due to excessive engine play.

 

Rattle - yes, plenty of it! The steering wheel will also rattle gooood on Group N mounts. You will want to open windows to let noise out at 140kmh+ in 5th gear.

But it's worth it for me!!

 

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

It will rattle so much that people will turn hands to see it. Again - worth it for me as that's how it should be if any racing is in mind.

 

After I fit a roll cage, I will convert to solid mounts. Even more rattle, and without sound proofing I will have to use ear plugs with the helmet. Still - worth it

[chris adams 0]

Rodionski - i spaced out my top buffer pads using half a plunger disc i found at the hardware store

 

 

I found this was enough to make a massive reduction in engine movement but still allowed some compression to dampen the vibrations out for daily driving, when i'm racing i could care less. I'm already running a group n lower mount, but unsure on the gearbox mount.

 

If you guys start running uprated mounts are you going to start having the problem the 306's get where they tear the metal around the top engine mount?

[/quote

 

just to confer if i have full complete group n mounts and space the buffers to the top engine mount and a group A lower forlk mount my rubber will destruct the metal structure in wich they are situated

[DRTDVL1345402287 0]

It was more a question than a statement.

 

 

[chris adams 0]

It was more a question than a statement.

 

sorri it was a miss read of a quote on my behalf.

[chris adams 0]

It was more a question than a statement.

 

sorri. ! my bad

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Rodionski - i spaced out my top buffer pads using half a plunger disc i found at the hardware store

 

 

I found this was enough to make a massive reduction in engine movement but still allowed some compression to dampen the vibrations out for daily driving, when i'm racing i could care less. I'm already running a group n lower mount, but unsure on the gearbox mount.

 

If you guys start running uprated mounts are you going to start having the problem the 306's get where they tear the metal around the top engine mount?

 

Well, that's a quasisolution as for me and it does not solve the alternator-chassis problem. I have another buffer installed on top of the engine fixing arm (as per your picture).

 

I also have a GrpA lower forkbush to work with the lower GrpN mount.

 

A good piece of advice - if you start putting GrpN mounts, put them all round! Otherwise the GrpN mount will tear the stock gearbox mount apart quite quickly.

You will also get uneven engine-gearbox combo play, which you don't want.

 

I don't think there's a problem with metal integrity when running GrpN mounts. They still are "soft" enough. As for GrpA solid mounts - that's another story and yes, there could be an issue with this if they are run without a full roll cage (meaning the one attached to front suspension turrets) and body strengthening.

[DRTDVL1345402287 0]

I'm still in the process of repairing a lot of the work that was done to the car before i purchased it, a full set of group N mounts will be on order in about 6 months time i hope.

 

My cage does brace the towers but i'm not sure if there has been any strengthening for the top mount area.

Edited January 6, 2011 by DRTDVL