Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
pavlony

Harmonic Balanser

Recommended Posts

pavlony

This part can not be bought. (At least not at the normal price). So I decided to make the tool.

post-705-134540339279_thumb.jpg

 

 

After vulcanization it looks like this.

post-705-134540339306_thumb.jpg

 

same story with tensioner,after some machining, new bearing was inserted.

post-705-134540339329_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rodionski

Usually everyone will just machine a solid pulley out of steel or alloy. Why would you make the rubber one seeing so much more effort in making one?

What would be the benefits over making a solid alloy one, and what's the price for restoring the OE pulley?

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
imaS

Solid pulley does not reduce torsional vibrations.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rodionski

That is obvious, thank you. But all tuned engines use solid alloy pulleys for a reason, would you agree?

I've seen a couple of engines broken because of the stock pulley breaking in two pieces.

Never seen engines break due to the pulley being solid.

So the question still stands.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
B1ack_Mi16

It's still to damp out torsional vibrations in the crank.

 

Whether it's needed or not is not easy to know, but it certainly should help to some extent on the fatigue life of the crankshaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miles

In all the years of selling the Alloy pullies for these along with the GTi6 engine, I have never heard anything bad or Failing from fitting them, It's the same aguement for pro's and con's of each, Like Turbo and Superchargers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
John

The torsional forces on the crank would probably be reduced if you fitted a lightened flywheel at the same time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rodionski
The torsional forces on the crank would probably be reduced if you fitted a lightened flywheel at the same time?

 

may be. however there is a pretty well based point of view that the weight of the flywheel should not be reduced too much (and it is not related to idle and drivability)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
pavlony

Is it possible to lighten factory flywheel, if yes in which area?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rodionski
Is it possible to lighten factory flywheel, if yes in which area?

 

Definitely possible. The MOST gain is achieved by shaving metall (and drilling holes) off the outer diameter of the flywheel.

The further from the center, the greater the inertia forces are per each ounce of weight. e.g. if 100 grams are taken from the inner part - it will gain nothing. If the same weight is taken off the crown - the gain is substantial.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris adams
The torsional forces on the crank would probably be reduced if you fitted a lightened flywheel at the same time?

 

may be. however there is a pretty well based point of view that the weight of the flywheel should not be reduced too much (and it is not related to idle and drivability)

 

i totally agree. ! me thinks that flywheel reduction should only occur when other items have been lightened themselves. ie pistons and conrods then equate lightening to the reduction of a flywheel ie if i reduce piston n conrod weight by 5% then reduce this from the flywheel. end of. as ive said before engine designers dont produce an engine for the hell of it theres careful thought to how an engine will cope at different levels of performance. it is also known that billet cranks are far lighter than there counterpart originals which upsets the balance of the engine which is the main reason for occasional rebuilds. so if you want out n out performance that lasts for a season or less do the most to reduce weight on every component you can but if you want power and reliability stick with the formula that was already produced and improve on that.

Edited by mi8 turbo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rodionski
In all the years of selling the Alloy pullies for these along with the GTi6 engine, I have never heard anything bad or Failing from fitting them, It's the same aguement for pro's and con's of each, Like Turbo and Superchargers

 

Just to check - what's the weight difference against the stock pulley and what's the price of your alloy pulley (plus delivery to Kyiv, Ukraine)? Many thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Miles

My Alloy pullies are around 650g's, no idea on the std one as I don;t have any currently, Delivery to the Ukraine inc pulley would be £105.00

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris adams
standard pulley weighs 1320 g

 

more than half the weight of standard! thats impressive and piece of mind that it will never go wrong. ill be saving for one of these asap.

Edited by mi8 turbo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris adams
Is it possible to lighten factory flywheel, if yes in which area?

 

Definitely possible. The MOST gain is achieved by shaving metall (and drilling holes) off the outer diameter of the flywheel.

The further from the center, the greater the inertia forces are per each ounce of weight. e.g. if 100 grams are taken from the inner part - it will gain nothing. If the same weight is taken off the crown - the gain is substantial.

 

if you take 100 grams from the inner part you will save 100 grams in weight which is a direct link to power per ton, yes it is a fraction but it still helps.

Edited by mi8 turbo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris adams
This part can not be bought. (At least not at the normal price). So I decided to make the tool.

 

 

 

After vulcanization it looks like this.

 

 

same story with tensioner,after some machining, new bearing was inserted.

 

maybe you,ve got the right idea but the wrong formula. if you could increase the bond of the two materials but still keep their original design then this would be satisfactory to others.

Edited by mi8 turbo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris adams

believe it or not i have had a few ideas of design myself only to see them mass produced. my first was a motorcycle lock i designed to fasten the throttle n front brake together. i was sixteen. and 3 years ago i saw a bike with this design im now 30. i thought of a washer machine with direct drive 5 years ago and guess what was released last year!!!!!!!!!. and i also designed on paper the electric power turbo only to read about it in maxpower 12 months later for £250 only my design had the workings from a scalextric controller to increse speed. so i think you are on the right lines. hmmmmm i could smell a buisness plan coming on. :lol:

Edited by mi8 turbo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris adams

can i ask how would a cast set of assembleies work under the conditions of the original setup.? but plz no sarcasum. :lol: . when i say cast i mean how would the outerpart wear against the rubber belt???????????????????..........................

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KRISKARRERA

I don't understand why this part wasn't solid in the first place. After all it's connected to the alternator via a rubber belt which has a certain about of stretch anyway.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
chris adams
I don't understand why this part wasn't solid in the first place. After all it's connected to the alternator via a rubber belt which has a certain about of stretch anyway.

 

in my opinion manufacturors make things to go wrong in the first place thus increasing the income from the models, cars/bikes they produce after forecourt sales.( simples :lol: )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
WA405
This part can not be bought. (At least not at the normal price). So I decided to make the tool.

 

 

 

After vulcanization it looks like this.

 

 

same story with tensioner,after some machining, new bearing was inserted.

 

pavlony, what material did you use to replace the rubber portion of the repair?

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×