[trackday_prep] 405 Mi16 Track Car

[petert 588]

3 hours ago, JeffR said:

Is there an optimal figure I should be aiming for?

 6 deg works very well.

[IRISH_MI16 2]

What poundage are your front springs?

[JeffR 51]

5 minutes ago, IRISH_MI16 said:

What poundage are your front springs?

500.

[calvinhorse 870]

Getting a lot of love on a Iranian 405 instagram page!!

[IRISH_MI16 2]

Getting love on both my pages too!

[JeffR 51]

Good to see. There's not enough love in the world these days.

[JeffR 51]

After waiting months for the clutch parts, the reassembly can finally begin.But first was to get the external rotating parts balanced which required quite a bit of correction.

I would have had no hope of lining up the twin driven plates without a spare input shaft. Still need to work out what pedal travel I'll end up with when the clutch is properly adjusted.

Hopefully reasonably straight forward from here.

 

Edited June 8, 2018 by JeffR

[JeffR 51]

I haven’t been able to get a good run on finishing the car, but it’s getting pretty close now.

Due to the iron block being a little taller, I took the ht leads back to Performance Ignition who are in the same industrial estate as our PCCV clubrooms.
A 2cm haircut got the length right allowing for a bit of fore & aft movement of the engine.

The alternator is mounted on a severely cut down J4RS monster mount. I had a turnbuckle made & blinged it up by zinc plating it!
The neg camber front hubs are assembled & fitted. Colin Hague did a great job on the spigot extension & spacer. I also got some longer 80mm Grayston wheel studs.
One thing which had me puzzled when I separated the head from the old alloy block was what had caused an indentation in a piston crown and corresponding dent in the combustion chamber.
Here’s the culprit.

Edited August 7, 2018 by JeffR

[speaksgeek 5]

Have you considered going coil on plug? It removes the whole mess of coil packs and leads, and makes getting a replacement/spare as hard as the nearest pick-a-part,

 

I'm using Yaris coils, Honda K20 coils would probably work well too.

[JeffR 51]

I've seen the Yaris set up used on a supercharged Gordini engine on A/Frogs. If I was starting from scratch I'd go that way, but the spend was $20 for the haircut.

With the positioning of the LS1 coils, they've lasted 10 years to date so the old saying 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' applies.

 

Yours must be near track ready?

[speaksgeek 5]

Quite right too.

 

I booked it in today for the mapping from scratch. End of the month and I should have a clear idea if it's ready for a test day at Winton.

[JeffR 51]

Cool. I'm about a week away from initial start up. If no issues are found it's over the Chasers for a full tune.

Maybe our Winton days will co-inside?

[JeffR 51]

Well the good news is I got it running today.

I spoke with my engine tuner and asked by how much I should add extra fuelling for the 260cc capacity increase.
He suggested 15% globally which was easy enough with the Motec software.

A couple of issues so far.
The Spoox clutch release bearing is squeaking loudly. It goes away if I depress the pedal. I’ve tried adjusting both tighter & looser but it’s there just the same.

Other issue is low oil pressure-about 32psi at all (low for the moment) revs. I’m sure I’ve connected all the dry sump hoses correctly.

Both require further investigation, but all in all, pretty happy.

 

 

 

[IRISH_MI16 2]

4 hours ago, JeffR said:

Well the good news is I got it running today.

I spoke with my engine tuner and asked by how much I should add extra fuelling for the 260cc capacity increase.
He suggested 15% globally which was easy enough with the Motec software.

A couple of issues so far.
The Spoox clutch release bearing is squeaking loudly. It goes away if I depress the pedal. I’ve tried adjusting both tighter & looser but it’s there just the same.

Other issue is low oil pressure-about 32psi at all (low for the moment) revs. I’m sure I’ve connected all the dry sump hoses correctly.

Both require further investigation, but all in all, pretty happy.

 

 

 

Clutch release failure is on the way by the sounds of that bearing. I had a new spoox one fail after 3000 gentle road miles. Put a standard one in and took world's of abuse..

 

Oil pressure is probably something simple to sort once you start investigating it. 

Glad to see this project coming together again

 

[Adrian W 0]

Low oil pressure is not good.

 

Hope the bearing clearances are correct. 

 

Is it a diesel block? I recall the  squirters are different for diesel or petrol blocks, think it was on Colin and Sandys build thread.

 

[JeffR 51]

J4RS block & squirters.

 

Bearing clearances same as the 1.9 engine I removed-0.0022".

 

Danny, not a std release bearing. About 30% bigger to suit the AP Racing twin plate set up.

[JeffR 51]

OK, I think I’ve identified the reason for the squeal coming from the release bearing.
With its larger diameter, it’s been rubbing in the bell housing casting of the final drive pinion (see pics).
Looks like box out and get handy with the Dremel.
I’ve had a quick look at all the hose connections for the dry sump system but can’t see anything out of place.
I dismantled the sump pan during the engine swap and since there was no foreign objects, metal particles etc present, I decided not to dismantle the oil pump so it’s got me puzzled.
More investigations necessary.

 

[Tom Fenton 1,542]

Well done on finding the issue, but very poor that a company sells this item and doesn't know there could be a clearance problem to address!

[JeffR 51]

Thanks Tom.

I was able to see the problem through one of the bell housing vents (is that what they're called)? I'd previously studied the geometry of the clutch fork throwout and saw a clearance issue that I expected would be overcome with clutch cable adjustment.

I now assume the release bearing was designed for a single plate clutch arrangement. It would have been nice to get some advice on just what configurations the bearing supported.

Spooks are you following up on the products you sell?????

Edited August 15, 2018 by JeffR
Further info

[welshpug 1,661]

that clearance issue on the release bearing would still be there on a single plate, the total height of the pressure plate fingers is not much different so that the leverage from the clutch fork is the same.

[welshpug 1,661]

that bearing looks like a standard one with a larger cover over it?

[JeffR 51]

56 minutes ago, welshpug said:

that clearance issue on the release bearing would still be there on a single plate, the total height of the pressure plate fingers is not much different so that the leverage from the clutch fork is the same.

True. The smaller diameter of an OEM bearing gives better opportunities with the overall position of the bearing to the clutch fingers. The AP Racing twin plate specs suggest a max of 5.5mm from disengaged to fully engaged.

 

1 hour ago, welshpug said:

that bearing looks like a standard one with a larger cover over it?

I reckon they used the existing plastic fork to bearing set up and grafted a release bearing of differing diameters. Pity they didn't take into account the different clutch configurations that customers may have required.

[JeffR 51]

I was able to drop the box today and get on with grinding back some of the casting to give the larger Spoox bearing clearance.
Before breaking out the Dremel, I had an old & damaged early 205 bell housing which I drilled a hole through it in about the same place I needed to remove metal to get an idea on the casting thickness. It was 5mm thick so hoping they maintained that thickness through the various boxes over the years, I used that as a guide for how much material I could confidently remove.
Still a small amount to clean up but I now have full clearance.
I also found as Mei pointed out that the plastic back which clips onto the release fork is not only the same, but you can dismantle a std bearing and use the plastic back on the bigger bearing if necessary.

[welshpug 1,661]

ahh so the bearing itself is larger then?  any numbers on it?

[JeffR 51]

It's an NSK bearing TK45-4B.