Dwf D6c Swap

[MiCRO 0]

Bad luck

 

Maybe now is the time to change the gearbox for diesel one, AFAIK it would provide better acceleration?

[pavlony 0]

I currently have three dismantled gearboxes. My BE3 with broken housing, BE1 (in good condition ) and diesel gearbox. I want to transfer BE3 core in BE1 housing (because regular reverse shifting). And next job is transplanting diesel synchro cone in BE1.

 

I bought a diesel gearbox because I thought that fifth gear is longer than mi16. It`s wrong. It is the same set. I have not counted the other gears, but I think the only difference is diff.

 

Some guy offer me XM 2.0 gearbox (probably have longer fifth gear)

[B1ack_Mi16 67]

If you have a 1.9 TD gearbox the gearbox housing itself on this box is reinforces to the regular BE1 / BE3 ones from the same time, so could be an idea to use that.

 

Normal 1.9D however has the weaker housing.

[welshpug 1,657]

personally I'd just use the casing and any synchro and matching gear parts, otherwise use all the MI16 final drive etc.

[pavlony 0]

It is a plain 1.9 diesel gearbox. Case is different, (the clutch fork mechanism and no place for crankshaft sensor), and obviously weaker.

But synchro cone is less worn due shifting at 2000-3000 rpm instead of 5000-7000 as MI16.

[pavlony 0]

*#%!!! everything is upside down. 2nd gear synchro is damaged. But I can`t simply replace synchro necklace. I must disassemble whole set. Oh no. How do I connect it. I do not know

[pavlony 0]

Job done. Gearbox works excellent. Now I have BE2D gerabox

[MiCRO 0]

As I'm about to rebuild my XU9J4Z (DFW) engine and I want to convert it to a D6C engine I hope you don't mind me asking a few questions in your topic.

 

I hope somebody could help me.

 

First of all, im interested in how much material is it possible to take from the head, I think I need to take off ~1mm to get D6C compression since I've bought a +0.2mm headgasket. Is this possible or is it too much? I'd rather get the compression with D6C pistons but I can't find any.

 

Secondly, I read on this site http://www.taylor-eng.com/xu9j4/16v_overview.html about D6C and DFW engine differences, and was wondering, which is better, to keep my inlet cam pulley #3, or change it to a #2 or a #4 maybe, considering the compression increasement (I'm aiming at 10.4 as in the D6C)?

Edited January 10, 2011 by MiCRO

[welshpug 1,657]

I would just fit D6C pistons rather than skim the head excessively.

[petert1345402284 0]

Skimming the head will only get you to around 9.8-10:1. Much better to skim the block and liners 1.30mm.

 

Definitely keep the #3 on the inlet if using standard cam.

Edited January 12, 2011 by petert

[MiCRO 0]

Skimming the head will only get you to around 9.8-10:1. Much better to skim the block and liners 1.30mm.

 

Definitely keep the #3 on the inlet if using standard cam.

 

Thanks a lot. How much do you think I could have by skiming the block 1.3mm? 10.4:1 or more?

[petert1345402284 0]

10.8:1

 

also add some more intake duration!

[MiCRO 0]

also add some more intake duration!

 

How can I do this?

 

I'm planning to keep standard camshafts.

[petert1345402284 0]

Either reground or new cam is necessary.

[MiCRO 0]

Either reground or new cam is necessary.

 

Since I'm limited with my budget, or better say I have no budget at all what do you suggest.

 

I only want to convert my DFW into D6C since I'm rebuilding the engine, would it be enough to skim the block for let's say 1.2 (to get 10.4:1), and put the #2 pulley? Or are the camshafts also different? Would it be necessary to remap the car after these changes?

[DRTDVL1345402287 0]

buy peter's cams they are cheap!

[John 0]

You dont remap. My old Mi16 had a DFW head with a D6C block that ran DFW management. Compression was that of the D6C. Had a cat and still pulled like a train.

Anyway, the newer management on DFW is a more advanced one than on the D6C.

[MiCRO 0]

buy peter's cams they are cheap!

 

Maybe they aren't expensive, but since I'm from Croatia, I'm afraid I would pay for postage costs more than they are worth.

 

@John: Glad to hear that, that's one expense less on my list

[petert1345402284 0]

If you're taking the effort to skim the block/liners, do the full 1.3mm. It's not about the tiny extra CR, but more about reducing the squish distance. It will still work nicely with the standard cams. I also sell chips for AUS$45 which is a remap!

[MiCRO 0]

If you're taking the effort to skim the block/liners, do the full 1.3mm. It's not about the tiny extra CR, but more about reducing the squish distance. It will still work nicely with the standard cams. I also sell chips for AUS$45 which is a remap!

 

Could you please find out what would be postage costs for this and cams, I'm from Croatia.