[trackday_prep] 4bie Motorsport Build

[AlexN 7]

So the t/fer case needs to come off before the g/box? Do I need to drain it first?

 

Yeah, I have a shed and we are coming into summer here.

 

Also, update your thread plz

Yes the t/fer case does need to come off first to get access to the final gearbox bell housing bolt.

 

You are right I need to update my thread. I'll try to get round to it this weekend!

[cammmy 1]

Choysa.

 

So do I need to drain the t/fer case before removing it?

[AlexN 7]

Choysa.

 

So do I need to drain the t/fer case before removing it?

I would drain the oil from both boxes.

[cammmy 1]

Drained the g/box but not the t/fer case (proved not to be an issue)

 

 

 

 

 

That transfer case is surprisingly heavy!

 

I tried to get the motor on the stand using the bolts that hold the g/box to the motor. Even though they are the length of my middle finger they weren't long enough ??? Do you normally have to buy some super long bolts to mount motors onto those stands?

[AlexN 7]

Drained the g/box but not the t/fer case (proved not to be an issue)

 

 

 

 

 

That transfer case is surprisingly heavy!

 

I tried to get the motor on the stand using the bolts that hold the g/box to the motor. Even though they are the length of my middle finger they weren't long enough ??? Do you normally have to buy some super long bolts to mount motors onto those stands?

Yeah I guess depending on the stand you have you will need longer bolts. Also get a load of washers to pack them out with as some of the bolts won't screw into the block that far iirc.

[cammmy 1]

Gonna go put the bolts back through the g/box and measure the protrusion. Should know how long I need them then.

[cammmy 1]

Got the bolts and spacers I needed.

 

Having trouble getting the exhaust mani off. 1 off the nuts is in a crap place and has now been damaged. Spanner just mashes it instead of turning it but I can't get anything else onto it.

[cammmy 1]

Change your cambelts people!!! Also take it over 3,000rpm once in a while. Man there is a crap load of carbon everywhere!

 

 

 

^That was in there when we took the head off. WTF!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sheared one head bolts and one valve cover bolt. Definitely going to go ARP head studs. Man was it a bastard getting those head bolts out. Bent my breaker bar.

[Borntobewild 1]

WOW

[cammmy 1]

Does anyone know if Puma still do big valve kits? Since I'm having to get new valves anyway I figure I may as well check out big valve options.

 

Also looking at these:

 

http://www.arrowprecision.co.uk/details.php?id=66716

 

I asked them if they could do solid lifters for the Mi

 

"We have followers to fit your application, they are cf 147.

The cost is £18 per cam follower + vat and carriage."

 

That a reasonable price? What do the standard lifters generally cost?

[petert1345402284 0]

No need to travel that far for valves. Try Competition Valves Australia, Melbourne. A much better product, in addition to having a single collet groove (Kawasaki Z900/1000). Last price was AUS$66 per valve. Solid lifters are typically $30-$40 each. Also try Arrow. With the pound so low it's a great time to buy.

 

Also consider moving up to a 33mm bucket if your lifter bores are worn. Then use Kawasaki buckets and long stem valves (shown below).

 

I order them in 36.5mm and 30.0mm sizes.

Edited October 16, 2010 by petert

[welshpug 1,661]

$66 per valve

 

works out at about £40, I never realised valves could cost so much!

 

I know I can get RS valves under £10 each, would they work in the MI head?

[cammmy 1]

Also consider moving up to a 33mm bucket if your lifter bores are worn. Then use Kawasaki buckets and long stem valves (shown below).

 

I order them in 36.5mm and 30.0mm sizes.

 

What's the advantage of that Peter? Cheaper/easier to source?

[cammmy 1]

^ Just read that a larger bucket increases RPM before valve float. I'm very interested in this now. How much would the machining generally be to enlarge the lifter bores?

 

Anywhere that I can get more info on using the Kawasaki valves/lifters? Also, are they shimmed? Shim over or under bucket?

[cammmy 1]

I want to get rid of the truck muffler on the back end. If I replaced it with the silencer from the other exhaust would it be too loud? Would just be two silencers then as the current exhaust has no centre muffler

[cammmy 1]

Progress

 

[cammmy 1]

Two of these arrived over the weekend

 

 

Just waiting on my Group N mounts now

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

How are these pulleys compared to stock items in terms of weight?

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

I am using Stew Baker's Group N mount kit - with WONDERFUL results.

You will notice the front bumper, the steering wheel rattling at idle though)))))))))

[cammmy 1]

They are lighter than standard apparently but I'm not sure by how much.

 

I mainly wanted the adjustment they provide.

 

Pretty sure they are machine from billet alloy

[XU10 0]

Nice pulleys, i wonder how well they fit.

 

I made DW8 pulleys fit on a RFY head,

which are much heavier ...

 

[cammmy 1]

Got the d/shaft's out and various other bits off in prep for swapping the gearbox from the other car.

 

Couldn't work on it yesterday though as I was swapping the springs on the trump.

 

Before:

 

 

After

 

 

Very pleased with the result. Waiting on some bits from the UK for this which should sharpen up the handling even more.

[Mr Teflon 1 1 Cars]

I love 2500's

[Mr Teflon 1 1 Cars]

Or is it a 2000?

[cammmy 1]

TC2500 although the eventual plan is to stick on the below with 2x Garrett T25's hanging off the sides

 

 

Note the massive 2" SU's. That's why I figure two small turbo's would go down well. They are off a 4.2 jag so I imagine they would drown a 3500.

 

TT3500 here I come (in 5 to 10 years)

 

Have solid rack mounts on the way and have another 2500 motor which I may give a bit of a recon and a head skim, then whack in with twin 1.75" SU's in the meantime