Hot Then Stop!

[Guest Peteonthecoast]

Hi all, I have a problem with my 94 Mi FWD.

 

It starts and runs beautifully but when it gets up to temp it just cuts out (fun in heavy traffic). Still have all dash electrics but get no spark. Once it cools down , starts again with no prob. I've replaced the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump works fine. I've checked the fuses which I didn't expect to be the problem. Could it be the TDC sensor or computer? I've checked the other similar topics but they seem to be different as all of my dash works fine. No crazy stuff going on there.

 

Hope someone can help.

Cheers

[tzracing 0]

Hello,

 

Dont know if helps, but with those symtoms can easily be the ignition amplifier module (item 1105), but I've heard around that are some MI16 running with that kind of problem and it is not what I mentioned above, which was my MI16 problem 2 years ago.

 

Check also iddle regulation valve (item 1239), if it has carbon inside can shut the engine. Never done that, but is also a "tip" to check.

 

Hope it helps you!

 

Cheers.

 

 

http://img84.imageshack.us/i/page2.pdf/

[Mr Teflon 1 1 Cars]

My old girl is currently suffering these symptoms.

 

Had to replace the distributor cap a couple of weeks ago as it'd burnt out the central brush. Had to leave car at the Ring until I could get back with the replacement.

 

On the way back from that trip it progressively got worse and worse until stopping about 15 miles from home. Second time in two weeks it's let me down! (Over 3 hard years to be fair)

 

Symptoms? The car runs perfectly from cold and plays up as it warms up, starting with a slight miss developing into not revving past 2.5k then cutting out, then back up to 2.5k then cutting out and repeat in a needle bouncing fashion.

 

So I trawl through 205GTiDrivers looking for a quick fix, reasoning that as it's fine when cold but not when warm then something simple is at fault or it wouldn't run at all.

 

Removed the amp from the bracket on the side of the battery tray, cleaned up both faces and applied some thermal paste before re-assembling - no joy.

 

Anyone got any other divine inspiration before I start changing things?

 

Cheers

Darren

[Jer309GTi 3]

Ignition amp or coil?

[grebo9mm 0]

Mine had the same, turned out to be the ignition amp module male/female plug had corroded. Wire brushed it back to clean metal and problem solved.

Definately worth a try before you throw any money at it.

 

 

 

 

[Mr Teflon 1 1 Cars]

Cheers guys, I'll let you know if I manage to sort it.

[Mr Teflon 1 1 Cars]

Well, it's running perfectly again.

 

Not overly confident I actually diagnosed and fixed it though. You know when you're staring at a job just wiggling, dismantling, cleaning and reassembling things whilst the fault is appearing intermittently? That's what I did.

 

Narrowed it down to the cold air feed pipe (from the top of the rad curling over and down to the airbox) moving backwards under hard acceleration and (I'm clutching at straws here) dislodging/disturbing either the amp connector or the temp sensor connector causing the issue. Gentle acceleration didn't cause the engine to move enough on the mounts to dislodge the air feed pipe.

 

Cable tied the front of the feed pipe to the slam panel - can't reproduce the fault now - even after a good hard thrashing and a couple of thorough heat soaks.

 

Not happy with my work though, as I don't believe a 'loose connection' can be possible with the style of connectors used on these components, so I'm still suspecting a wire break somewhere in that area of the loom.

 

The only thing that puzzles me is the 'fine at cold problem at hot thing' Before I began tinkering yesterday I let the car idle from cold until warm when the fault appeared.

 

Strange.

 

Track days at Oulton Park on Tuesday followed by Anglesey on Saturday - so plenty of opportunity for any problems to reoccur!

[Mr Teflon 1 1 Cars]

Well, best part of 700 miles and 2 trackdays over 5 days and not missed a beat.

 

I'm still none the wiser really.