Jump to content
  • Welcome to 205GTIDrivers.com!

    Hello dear visitor! Feel free to browse but we invite you to register completely free of charge in order to enjoy the full functionality of the website.

Sign in to follow this  
MiCRO

High Idling, Warning Light, & Other

Recommended Posts

MiCRO

I've bought my Mi16 4 days ago, it has problem with high idling, revs drop after a short ride. How can I fix this?

 

Other problem is with this warning light, I don't know what it means, it should turn off when I start the car but it usually doesn't, sometimes it does but turns on again during the ride.

 

 

I have few more stupid questions.

 

Are left & right foglights same? I don't have one.

 

I have a sunroof, does it have a shade? I either don't have one or its stuck? :blink:

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Jer309GTi

The warning light is the engine management 'k' light, possibly a dodgy sensor?

 

Not sure on the foglights, but I would have thought they were the same

 

My '91 Mi had a shade on the sunroof, but my H reg doesn't. Looks like it did at some point though and its been taken off for some reason

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Feeble

My sunroof shade used to get jammed, so I had to slide my hand in the gap to retrieve it every so often...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Robbo
I've bought my Mi16 4 days ago, it has problem with high idling, revs drop after a short ride. How can I fix this?

 

Umm .. do you mean the high idle on warmup (~1500rpm)? If so, this is normal. Standard idle 900rpm +/- 50.

 

Other problem is with this warning light, I don't know what it means, it should turn off when I start the car but it usually doesn't, sometimes it does but turns on again during the ride.

 

Check Engines or 'K' light is usually due to poor idle. This seems to be a common problem - I fixed mine by changing the o-rings on all the injectors (and fuel rail) and a very cheap fix. You should also remove and clean the contacts on the ignition coil, clean the air flow meter (AFM) and check for air leak in the intake system.

 

I've just had my injectors professionally cleaned and flow tested. This might be necessary if the the above remedy doesn't work. Make sure you're using minimum 95 RON fuel as well!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MiCRO
I've bought my Mi16 4 days ago, it has problem with high idling, revs drop after a short ride. How can I fix this?

 

Umm .. do you mean the high idle on warmup (~1500rpm)? If so, this is normal. Standard idle 900rpm +/- 50.

 

Other problem is with this warning light, I don't know what it means, it should turn off when I start the car but it usually doesn't, sometimes it does but turns on again during the ride.

 

Check Engines or 'K' light is usually due to poor idle. This seems to be a common problem - I fixed mine by changing the o-rings on all the injectors (and fuel rail) and a very cheap fix. You should also remove and clean the contacts on the ignition coil, clean the air flow meter (AFM) and check for air leak in the intake system.

 

I've just had my injectors professionally cleaned and flow tested. This might be necessary if the the above remedy doesn't work. Make sure you're using minimum 95 RON fuel as well!

 

When I start the engine on a cold morning it idles about 2500rpm, sometimes a bit more, what could cause this problem?

 

I have another question, what is normal temperature of cooling water?

 

I have problems with warming up the engine, and the temperature never goes over 85°C, when I hear the ventilator turn on, when I drive a bit faster it also cools down to about 70°C. Is this normal temperature?

 

I think I don't have a thermostat mounted, could this be the cause of my troubles?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest pugwash

Could be the ecu is not getting the right imfo on motor temp, check the sender and wireing on side of thermistat housing as a faulty or loose connection can cause all kinds of strange behaviour [blue connector] if this comes loose when the motor is hot the ecu ups the idle as it thinks the motor is cold, give contacts a good clean, pugs

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest jontg428

In regards to your high idling issue I had the same problem with my MI16. It would high idle then sometimes come back to normal, or idle too slow and almost stall. The first culprit to look at is the idle air motor. Give it a good cleaning and then take the car for a drive. Also, it goes without saying to check for vacuum leaks as well. My issue turned out to be with the throttle position sensor that is mounted on the throttle body, after I replaced this, all idle problems disappeared. Hope that helps you out,

Jon

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MiCRO
In regards to your high idling issue I had the same problem with my MI16. It would high idle then sometimes come back to normal, or idle too slow and almost stall. The first culprit to look at is the idle air motor. Give it a good cleaning and then take the car for a drive. Also, it goes without saying to check for vacuum leaks as well. My issue turned out to be with the throttle position sensor that is mounted on the throttle body, after I replaced this, all idle problems disappeared. Hope that helps you out,

Jon

 

Looks like tps is ok, but the throttle body is "loose", probably it doesn't closes properly. This guy who looked at my car suggested me to find a VW/audi throttle body because its hard to find an Mi16 one, but this VW/audi has one of the holes much bigger, on Mi16 they are the same size, and I would have to enlarge the intake manifold to fit this throttle body.

 

Has anyone tried this throttle body on a Mi16? Is there any performance gains or losses?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KRISKARRERA

Regarding the Audi/VW throttlebody fitment, there's been several threads on this subject on the 205 forum, and the results have been mixed. But you don't need a new inlet manifold to fit one, you just "dremel" the standard inlet a bit.

 

But anyway what you need to do is read the ecu for fault codes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MiCRO
Foglamps are the same om both sides. If you can't find one from a dealer, have a look at Valeos web.

 

http://webshop.tecdoc.net/ows/en/33D6FEAA7...ndexFramesetJsp

 

There you'll find the valeo partnumbers for a wide range of 405 parts

 

 

Thanks, I already bought a used one :)

 

KRISKARRERA, that's why I'm not sure about doing this, because I don't want to lose any performances. :unsure:

 

What do you mean by fault codes? You think this might be the reason for high idling?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
KRISKARRERA

Well you've had the diagnostic light on so the ecu has sensed that some sensor is playing up in some way. It's easy to check, I've done mine loads of times with just a couple bits of wire. There's a thread on it on the Aussiefrogs forum.

 

From what was said on the 205 forum I think the Audi/VW throttlebody doesn't actually reduce performance at all but can alter the way it is delivered.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

×