[project] 405 Mi16 Drift/track Car

[nemesis45 0]

Magnificent realization

[AlexN 7]

Finally managed to spend some quality time in the garage (on a nice cold day, why didn't I do this while it was still warm!) and put the crank, pistons, oil pump etc back into the block. I decided to fit the new shells on the mains even though the original ones looked in good condition. Hopefully (touch wood!) I won't be rebuilding this engine any time soon so no point keeping them!

 

 

 

The cams are fully installed in the head, and the cam seals fitted. I have noticed I forgot to buy the gasket that goes with the end plate on the other end of the cams, part number 0236 45. Does anyone know if this is still available? I remember thinking I needed one about a year ago when I bought all the parts I would need, so the fact I haven't got one may indicate it was unavailable? I really can't remember; I will have to phone Peugeot tomorrow and find out.

 

I just need to get the cross-braces cut out of my sump spacer as it won't fit with the windage tray and the oil filler tube. I am also going to get the aircon mounts machined off the sump to save a bit more weight, I won't be needing them! Is it worth extending the sump baffle up by the thickness of the spacer plate?

 

Also I will be reviving the thread about fibreglass parts soon, I know that I have been uselessly slow getting this organised, but I should be able to get something sorted in the near future, so anyone that is still interested please watch this space!

[DRTDVL1345402287 0]

This is what we have done to my sump, i've got the finished unit in the back of the car but no photos of it at the moment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[cammmy 1]

Check out what has been done with this tray and talk to Peter

 

 

I have this on my 4bie and will be doing the same to the BX. An extra rib is added to the spacer and then the tray is mounted to it.

 

Will keep/increase the rigidity added by the ribs.

[cammmy 1]

Just realised that mine was done like that as there is nowehere for the spacer to bolt to on the XU9 (whereas there is on an XU10)

 

Still worth considering though I guess/probably just best to bolt it where it should go

 

What are you doing for oil control?

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Alex,

 

I noticed in your pics that you have a sport gear shifter system -

My stock system fails on a regular basis in track and rally events.

 

Could you explain how to build a sport system without any play and a but shorter shift distances?

I assume that it is Colin Satchell that has built the system for you? Is it suitable for stock non 4x4 layouts?

I would appreciate if you could make more detailed pics so that I could make a similar system for my 405, or, if the price is not too high - maybe Colin could make one for me and sell?

 

Many thanks and looking forward to hearing from you!

 

rodion.

Edited October 26, 2010 by rodionski

[AlexN 7]

Just realised that mine was done like that as there is nowehere for the spacer to bolt to on the XU9 (whereas there is on an XU10)

 

Still worth considering though I guess/probably just best to bolt it where it should go

 

What are you doing for oil control?

 

Yeah for the Xu10 engines you can get extended bolts for the mains that the windage tray bolts into. I have had the braces cut out of my spacer to make it fit.

 

As for oil control I will be extending the pump baffle to match the height of the sump with the spacer, and possibly modifying the trap door baffle in the sump. I will probably run an Accusump if only for pre-oiling of the engine before startup.

 

if the price is not too high - maybe Colin could make one for me and sell?

 

Colin makes these as kits for 205's that you can install yourself (I think!), and the BE3 gearbox in the 405 Mi16 is the same style linkage (exactly the same as on the 4x4, just the T16 had different).

 

I will ask him what a kit costs and let you know. They do work rather well though, and the Evo IV box I have got is actually quite similar to the BE3 box so it should be relatively simple to convert it to work (much easier than the cable actuated T16 box anyway!)

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Just realised that mine was done like that as there is nowehere for the spacer to bolt to on the XU9 (whereas there is on an XU10)

 

Still worth considering though I guess/probably just best to bolt it where it should go

 

What are you doing for oil control?

 

Yeah for the Xu10 engines you can get extended bolts for the mains that the windage tray bolts into. I have had the braces cut out of my spacer to make it fit.

 

As for oil control I will be extending the pump baffle to match the height of the sump with the spacer, and possibly modifying the trap door baffle in the sump. I will probably run an Accusump if only for pre-oiling of the engine before startup.

 

if the price is not too high - maybe Colin could make one for me and sell?

 

Colin makes these as kits for 205's that you can install yourself (I think!), and the BE3 gearbox in the 405 Mi16 is the same style linkage (exactly the same as on the 4x4, just the T16 had different).

 

I will ask him what a kit costs and let you know. They do work rather well though, and the Evo IV box I have got is actually quite similar to the BE3 box so it should be relatively simple to convert it to work (much easier than the cable actuated T16 box anyway!)

 

Many thanks!

 

The kits ive seen for the 205 will not fit the 405 though.

the stock shifter for 405 is absolutely different from the one on the 205 and 309.

 

That's why I would appreciate a plug and play solution for this issue.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Could you make pics of what it looks like under the bonnet?

Very interested to see how it works as the shifter movement pattern is inverted since the stock pyramid and "apple" joint is not used.

[cammmy 1]

Depending on the cost of the shifter, I'm extremely interested.

 

Super keen to see how your evo box conversion goes though. Plenty of idiots over here get easy access to finance and buy evo's. Stready supply of written off cars.

[welshpug 1,657]

the shifter is quite different to both 405 and 205 factory items, they are a complete setup and hence if its the same gearbox then to a point each kit is the same regardless of the shell.

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Any attention to this request please? Many thanks!

 

Alex, i've emailed you a few times with no response. Could you pls respond?

 

Thank you!

[calvinhorse 870]

Probly because he does'nt want to give away what he's paid good money for?? Can't blame him!

Try talking to colin satchell, don't think hell want to give it away for free tho..

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

Sorry, I really don't understand you.

What we talked with Alex about was ordering kits from Colin FOR MONEY.

What's with the crap on giving away for free?

Or do you think that it's ok to buy a kit without seeing how it works?

I already have all the pics for that kit, I could go make one on my own, but lack time and the right raw materials)

Hence the request to try order from Colin a ready plug and play kit.

 

[calvinhorse 870]

sorry my mistake..

[rodionski 3 1 Cars]

No problem mate!

Not being a native speaker - it is often difficult for me to get the meaning, so I have to ask a few times to understand

[AlexN 7]

Time for another quick update. Today I picked up my cam cover from the powder coaters. I had all the raised surfaces polished and crackle black finish applied, it looks amazing!

 

 

And on the finished head:

 

 

I also got back my custom fuel rail from the welders at work, I've had the two end fittings welded on so there is no chance of any leaks! I have a good collection of fuel hoses and aeroquip fittings, I just need a few more and I'll be able to plumb in the whole system over Christmas.

 

 

I have finally finished refurbishing the rear calipers all ready to fit with completely new set of seals and a lick of paint. I am going to use the standard callipers to keep things simple for now. I will upgrade in the future should the need arise.

 

[AlexN 7]

It's been a while since I updated this thread, so I thought I should post some pictures of the engine in it's current state!

 

The sump and head went on plus a few other bits and pieces like trial fitting the inlet manifold and getting ready to fit the cam belt. Anyone got any good tips to lock the cam pulleys when you are using aftermarket ones without the timing holes?

 

 

 

 

Sorry for the crappy phone pics and my finger over the lens!

[cammmy 1]

Looking swish.

 

On the 4bie cams there is a hex section that you would be able to fit a large spanner over (~25-27mm). My brother was going to make me a tool to hold them out of steel plate and two open end heads of the right size.

[James504 12]

27mm spanner.

[petert1345402284 0]

Anyone got any good tips to lock the cam pulleys when you are using aftermarket ones without the timing holes?

 

With the cam cover off, fit the cams with standard pulleys first to get them in approximately the right position using pins etc. Then slacken the belt, slide the pulleys off and fit the new pulleys in their centre position. Get help to hold the cams with a spanner if you they want to rotate. The exhaust usually will, but the inlet tends to stay put.

 

Then tighten the belt and adjust the cams as required with a dial indicator guage. Here's a tip on my website on how to find TDC.

 

http://www.taylor-eng.com/xu9j4/finding_tdc.html

[AlexN 7]

Thanks for the info, I will give it a go once I have got hold of the final tensioner. Does anyone know what the storage life of a cambelt is? I have one that is brand new but I am not sure how old it is!

[James504 12]

I don't think non service age really matters, but i could be wrong. I wouldnt use a belt thats sat on the shelf for say 20 years, but a couple of years old should be fine. I fitted a belt that came in the old peugeot packet (blue and yellow and no citroen logo) that was probably 5-8 years old to my 205 and its been fine.

[AlexN 7]

Over the last few days I have been working with the lads in the machine shop to apply the finishing touches to my custom brake bells, and thankfully my measurements all seem to be spot on!!

 

 

 

 

 

The bells are complete with built in hub-centric spacers and the total depth is about 19mm. This offsets the disks sufficiently to allow the lower ball joint on the 406 hubs to have plenty of clearance. I now need to work out the dimensions for the radially mounted calliper brackets. I need to get a set of wheels studs now to finish it all off.

 

 

 

 

The quality of the machining is top draw, everything is spot on and they should do the job perfectly. Cost wise, it sounds like I am going to have to buy the lads a full buffets worth of food but it was worth the wait to get them done! Now I know they fit perfectly I am going to get them anodised black on Monday. I am also going to get the final modifications carried out on the inlet manifold to accept my Alfa 164 throttle body, and that will be finished too.

 

I have also decided that I am going to run some GM/Delco D585 truck coils, these have a built in igniter and they give a nice powerful spark, as opposed to going down the fully CDI route. I can get them from the US for $25 each, so at that price it is a no-brianer.

 

I have also bought a pair of genuine new headlights and the trim that fit underneath them, and also a brand new grille. So the front of the car should be very smart once it is finished.

[petert1345402284 0]

I have also decided that I am going to run some GM/Delco D585 truck coils, these have a built in igniter and they give a nice powerful spark, as opposed to going down the fully CDI route. I can get them from the US for $25 each, so at that price it is a no-brianer.

 

I bought a set of those too. Currently fitting to a 205 16V I'm building. Did you get the harness as well? Saves a lot of hassle.