[project] 405 Mi16 Drift/track Car

[cybernck 402 1 Cars]

i already explained it a few posts above .

[Guest piran21]

you need to make the exhaust manifold either way, but the rest would

be much easier and cheaper with a DFW engine with a knock sensor.

 

for instance, on DFW you don't have to remove the head or lower the C/R,

run low boost (<0.5 bars) with a cheap and widely-available turbo and

you can simply add a 5th injector and it should all work ok and give you

200-220 bhp and no loss of off-boost performance.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Oops i'm sorry about that... hmmmm... interesting..what's the cheapest turbo manifold available?

[AlexN 7]

Right, time to revive this thread, I've been sooo busy with work and stuff I've hardly had time to work on the car, but all is about to change!

 

I've been doing a lot of thinking about what I want from the car when it is finished, and I've now decided to keep it 4wd and turbo the engine. There is going to be a lot of custom fabrication happening, a lot done by myself or on the cheap through my work. The cost shouldn't be too horrendous.

 

The shell is totally stripped and ready to work on and the engine is partially stripped down. What I am planning to do this weekend is strip down the transfer box and gear box and set to work uprating them (I found a company at the weekend to make new spline shafts and I've potentially got access to some very high grade steel to replace the planetary gear pins in the transfer box).

 

I'm under no illusions that this is going to be an easy or pleasant job, so if anyone has any information or pictures or anything to make the process easier it would be very much appreciated.

 

I'm certain some people on here must have stripped these boxes before, so whatever you can provide will be a great help!

 

I'll try and get some pics of my progress so far posted this weekend when I get some time.

[imaS 0]

It's quite easy job to remove differentials and inputshaft from transferbox. Just look that manual (pages seem to be in random order). transferbox_repair_manual__4x4_.pdf

Side casing seals are no longer available, but you can make new ones by yourself. And before putting transferbox into car check that it's oilpump works.

Edited March 17, 2008 by imaS

[AlexN 7]

Thanks for the quick reply, this is the kind of information I was hoping for! I gathered that parts from Peugeot were going to be scarce.

 

Is there anything in particular to look out for in terms of wear and tear that could need replacing (other than the planetary pins)? I guess any bearings needing replacing would have to be custom made.

 

Out of interest, how strong is the MI16x4 gearbox? I assume the internals are identical to the BE3 on the standard Mi16 (apart from the obvious lack of differential etc). Are they reliable with higher power/torque? Or, for instance, would the Quaife 205 BE3 gear kit fit it? I asked a guy from Quaife and he wasn't sure!

[imaS 0]

Bearings might be found from manufacturer called Nadella.

[petert1345402284 0]

Out of interest, how strong is the MI16x4 gearbox? I assume the internals are identical to the BE3 on the standard Mi16 (apart from the obvious lack of differential etc). Are they reliable with higher power/torque? Or, for instance, would the Quaife 205 BE3 gear kit fit it? I asked a guy from Quaife and he wasn't sure!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Other than ratios, they're identical. The sun gears are the weakest part of a BE1/BE3 and you don't have those. I've heard numbers like 220-250hp being the limit, but I'm really not sure. Peugeot certainly thought so, as they used the ML/ME in the T16. The Quiafe gearset would definitely fit.

[AlexN 7]

Well I think i'll run with it to start with, and if it fails replace the internals with the Quaife kit.

 

The spline shafts look a little more complex than I anticipated, the company who said they might be able to replace them are www.eliteracingtransmissions.com

 

They look like they are the ideal people to do it and the guy I spoke to sounded very interested in having a go. Could be pricey though, but if I'm serious about doing this car properly I'll have to pay the price!

[AlexN 7]

I've finished striping out the engine bay, the whole front end is now off. Tomorrow I'll take the wings and doors off and get the rest of the interior out (weather permitting!). I should have it down to the bare shell by the end of the Easter weekend.

 

Here are some pics of the progress so far.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm planning to strip down the transfer box tomorrow, I'll put some more pics up after I have.

Edited March 21, 2008 by AlexN

[imaS 0]

Have you dismantled transferbox? Were the planetary gears still in good condition?

[AlexN 7]

Have you dismantled transferbox? Were the planetary gears still in good condition?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

About time I got round to updating this thread!

 

Yes I have dismantled the transfer box. Superficially the gears look ok. I will post some pics I took up tomorrow. There were a couple of things I noticed, but I will have to put the pics up to explain. I've got the main transfer shafts out of both boxes and now in the process of getting a quote for improving the splines (they are quite worn).

 

Other progress, I finally have a proper place to work on the car, the chassis is now totally stripped, and with my newly acquired MIG I am now preping it for a lot of spot welding fun! Just waiting to get hold of a chassis tilter and some liquid nitrogen so I can crack on with the underside.

 

I've got a five day weekend next week so I should be able to make good progress from now on!

[AlexN 7]

Finally here are some photos of the transfer box I stripped down. There was some burnt oil on the outside of the viscous coupling unit and there was a seal that seemed to have destroyed itself on the base of the unit (see photos). The planetary gears look ok like I said below, but I guess it is impossible to tell how good they are.

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2411/252187...90e67345b_b.jpg

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3035/252188...6bedc7546_b.jpg

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2418/252188...569517a62_b.jpg

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3204/252187...39e7809b2_b.jpg

 

I've only got the two gearboxes/transfer boxes that I own to go on so can anyone tell me what kind of condition the splines are in? To me they look more worn at one end where they are definitely thinner. I'm still contemplating trying to get a job done on them to strengthen them in some way.

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2129/252271...dae27ed9c_b.jpg

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2007/252271...aa4678616_b.jpg

 

 

Otherwise I have been making good progress after a very helpful trip to my local Peugeot dealership where I borrowed a very comprehensive Mi16x4 workshop manual (which I have scanned) and tool .0914 which meant I could undo the massive bolts on the hydraulic suspension cylinders and finally send the sub-frame to the finishing shop to get it powder coated (it should look mint when I get it back - I'll post some photos). I've also sent the front subframe to be blasted clean so I can seam weld it (then it too will be powder coated).

 

I'm just finishing off a custom rotating jig for the chassis so that I can work on it easily and spin it 360 degrees. This should be finished soon (Tuesday I hope) then I can seam/spot weld the chassis. I am currently considering spot welding rather than seam (putting an extra weld in between every factory one). Has anyone any experience/advice stiffening chassis' that they can give me?

 

Once this is done I can order my roll cage from Safety Devices then get the suspension rebuilt and the fuel system in. Lots of work left to do but I am enjoying making some progress!

[gingerscotsman 0]

Looking forward to seeing some more updates on this. Looks like a very interesting project!

[imaS 0]

Splines and differentials look quite good. I think that the molten part is plastic bit which is located between differential and viscous unit. It just keeps moving bits away from each other. If that transferbox has worked fine before I wouldn't worry about that plastic part.

[AlexN 7]

Splines and differentials look quite good. I think that the molten part is plastic bit which is located between differential and viscous unit. It just keeps moving bits away from each other. If that transferbox has worked fine before I wouldn't worry about that plastic part.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Bearing in mind the aim of the project is to get around 300bhp at the flywheel is it worth replacing the pins in the plane differentials (as I have heard others have done) and get the splines uprated?

 

I guess I could run it until (if) it breaks but that might cause irreparable damage and I only have one spare box!

 

I have some money put aside to spend on this part of the project (though I guess the pins won't cost much to do), is it worth spending it?

[imaS 0]

I would use stronger parts or atleast weld those pins better into their places.

[AlexN 7]

Have you done this before? How easy is it to remove the old pins? I guess you have to drill them out. I can get hold of some nice strong alloys from work so it should be a reasonably straight forward job...

[imaS 0]

I haven't changed those pins, just noticed that welds were broken and pins had started to spin. Grind those welds away and then just push pins away.

[AlexN 7]

I think I will give this a go. I'll photograph the whole process and put them up on here for the benefit of others who are might be interested in doing it.

[AlexN 7]

As part of my overhaul of the car and preparation for turning it into a track car I am going to be using solid bushes every where I can. To save a lot of cash I have had them made at work (well only the rear differential mounts so far - but I will get a lower engine mount machined as well).

 

 

 

 

As usual the guys at work have done a cracking job and all that remains is to get the brace powder coated to match the subframe! I should be getting the subframe back very soon so I will post a photo of it in all it's glory as soon as I can!

[AlexN 7]

Also here are the pictures of the chassis rotator that I have been constructing!

 

 

 

 

It was my first proper attempt at mig welding and although some of the welds look a bit ropey the jigs are pretty strong. I have picked the car up by the frame slotted into the front of the car and it didn't break! The rear frame will bolt onto the lower bumper attachment points.

 

I just have to level the land the car is on before I mount it properly. Having this is going to make working on the shell so much easier!

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

Awesome, simply awesome. I'm amazed at the effort some of you guys go to. And good to see it being done on a 405.

[gingerscotsman 0]

Wish I had one of those. Would make lying under the car a thing of the past

[AlexN 7]

Thanks for the feedback guys! Some people think I am nuts doing all this to work to 405, but I know that when it is finished I'll have something pretty special! No other car I would rather have....

[vicki mi16 babe 0]

Keep up the good work....you know the old girls worth it