Battery Wont Keep Its Charge

[JOHN89MI16 0]

I seem to have devolped yet another fault with my car. It wont hold a charge for more than 2 weeks maximum, most of the time its less.

Ive changed the alternator once, the battery twice( the last time only 2 weeks ago and it was brand new) and the starter motor incase the solenoid was knackered and draining power.

Ive done all this in the past 12 months but it still keeps happening. Ive even changed the complete positive battery cable (second hand from a scrap yard) but still no luck.

It will drive fine everywhere i go with no battery light coming on but if i want to start it after i stop ive got no chance.

Im now starting to fear petrol stations because they wont let you use jump leads to get me going again because it starts first time everytime off a jump start.

Ive even done a volt meter check on the new battery and when it was fitted 2 weeks ago it was running at 14.5 volts but now im lucky if i get 12.25 volts and thats when its running.

Has anyone had a similar problem like this before because im stuck?

[Sloppy 0]

sounds like something is draining the battery when its stood, look for an electrical drain maybe the radio?

[JOHN89MI16 0]

Ive had to remove the radio because it packed up. I did check the radio wires afterwards and they are ok.

Also i dont know if its related to the fault but if i reach my destination and i switch the ignition down a notch so it kills the engine but the dash lights are on, the radiator fans start working but go off if i start it up again. Also the water temp gauge moves down a notch if i release the clutch pedal.

Could they be part of the cause or just another fault?

How do i find where the drain is coming from because its impossible to check every electrical system because there are so many of them.

Is there an easy way to check?

[Feeble 0]

Not got any stray amp leads or anything? That was my problem! It caught on moving parts in the engine bay and created a short! Doh!

[JOHN89MI16 0]

Ive never got round to fitting them in. The stereo packed up before i got the chance.

[gingerscotsman 0]

Is the alternator charing the battery? Measure the battery Voltage with the engine off. It should be anywhere between 12 and 13 Volts. Now start the engine (if you can ) and measure the voltage at the battery terminals again. I should be around 14.5V or so. This indicates that the alternator is working and the battery is getting a charging voltage.

 

If you are not getting the 14.5 V start looking around for a bad earth at alternator or possibly a broken wire or connection in your charging circuit. You may find a fuse or something in the engine compartment has blown resulting in a open circuit.

 

Failing all this put it into an auto electricians. Should be simple for them to fix. I may be expensive but how much longer can you afford new batterys and alternators!!

 

Hope this helps. Let us know how you get on

[ryan13961345402285 1]

You need to put a multimeter between the negative battery terminal and the earth lead. Lock the car and monitor the amperage. It may take a few minutes for all the control units to shut down, and when they do the amperage will drop. It should prob be at around 0.06 or below. If there is a drain, the easiest way to detect it is monitor the amperage and pull out fuse by fuse to detect what is causing it.

[Feeble 0]

Auto Electirican will come to you and sort it for about £60! (If you're lazy like me! )

[Guest badboyracer3500]

Are you sure you have the right alternator as there are different voltage ones. mine had an 80 but when i wanted a replacement they only had a 70 in stock and touch wood no probs so far, but there again i've no abs or air con to power up.

[JOHN89MI16 0]

Thanks for all the info. I will give them a try and let everyone know the results.

[JOHN89MI16 0]

Are you sure you have the right alternator as there are different voltage ones. mine had an 80 but when i wanted a replacement they only had a 70 in stock and touch wood no probs so far, but there again i've no abs or air con to power up.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I will check which one is on the car but i dont have abs either and the air con has never worked.

[JOHN89MI16 0]

I spoke to a few people today about my battery problem and they all say it might be the voltage regulator.

As a result i disconected the power lead on the alternator and put a volt meter on the alternator with the car running and it read 34.5 volts.

Surely thats miles to much voltage for a 12 battery to take. My mate thinks its 'cooking' the battery because the regulator isnt doing its job.

Does anyone know if this is right?

Also does anyone know why the battery light doesnt light up on the dash board when i run the car with only the wire from the battery off the alternator?

The light comes on with the ignition on before i start it so it must be working.

[Jer309GTi 3]

I spoke to a few people today about my battery problem and they all say it might be the voltage regulator.

As a result i disconected the power lead on the alternator and put a volt meter on the alternator with the car running and it read 34.5 volts.

Surely thats miles to much voltage for a 12 battery to take. My mate thinks its 'cooking' the battery because the regulator isnt doing its job.

Does anyone know if this is right?

Also does anyone know why the battery light doesnt light up on the dash board when i run the car with only the wire from the battery off the alternator?

The light comes on with the ignition on before i start it so it must be working. 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

You should never disconnect the battery when the car is running! The alternator could well be buggered now if it wasn't before. It would have been running with no load, whereas when the battery is connected it will be charging it.

 

You should measure the voltage across the battery when the engine is running with everyting connected, and if it is over 14.5V ish, certainly if over 15V, then the regulator is at fault. Mine was running around 18V at idle when it went a few months ago.

 

The little wire on the alternator controls the dash light

[JOHN89MI16 0]

I managed to get a electrian to test my car today and he diagnosed that the earth was braking down. He run a jump lead from the negative terminal to the engine block and straight away the battery shot up to 14 volts.

He advised me to do away with the stupid cap terminal that peugeot thought was clever to put on and put on a proper one that tightens up and fit a new strap.

Well i managed to do what he said and it was still the same so i changed the earth point. Instead of it being on the gearbox where there is a stud fixing i now have it running off the engine itself and then down to the chassis.

Even though the stud and all fixings are clean it still didnt give a good earth contact for the battery. The only thing i couldnt clean was where the stud made contact with the gearbox because the stud was seized solid.

The good news now is that the temp gauge is solid and doesnt move when it shouldnt, the fans work properly and best of all the oil temp gauge ( i think that what it is in the bottom right hand corner of the clocks) isnt always on max when my car is hot.

I hope this is of further help to anyone who reads it because even the sparky only got it partly right and it cost me £20 for 5 mins of his time.

Thanks to everyone for there input because i now have a more wide range knowledge of electrics but please dont make the mistake i made and think its the alternator not giving out enough power because it isnt and its alot cheaper to move the earth (£5).