Abs

[Guest badboyracer3500]

to remove the abs(as in bendix) what needs removing/replacing and can i do it???

please help urgent.

Gavin.

[Jer309GTi 3]

You need to remove the ABS unit and fit a servo/master cylinder from a non-ABS car. I expect a few of the brake lines would need to be changed too. I think it's quite a straight forward job. You could PM Miles because iirc he removed the ABS from Kris's car

[Sloppy 0]

Why on earth would you want to remove you ABS, ive had 2 write offs, one my beloved black 405 mk2

 

 

both accidents would have almost certainly been avoided with the aid of ABS, which was a MUST on my new car.

 

If its damaged surely try and replace it of update it to the later system if yours is a mk1

[Jer309GTi 3]

Its a lot of work to upgrade to the later system, certainly a lot harder than removing the standard ABS

Edited November 18, 2006 by Jer309GTi

[Guest badboyracer3500]

You need to remove the ABS unit and fit a servo/master cylinder from a non-ABS car. I expect a few of the brake lines would need to be changed too. I think it's quite a straight forward job. You could PM Miles because iirc he removed the ABS from Kris's car

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

thanks.

do i really need to change the servo and how do they differ?

what name does miles go under on here?

Gavin.

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

Gavin, does your abs not work then? Miles' username is "Miles"

[Guest badboyracer3500]

Gavin, does your abs not work then? Miles' username is "Miles"

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

i some how thought you would say that.

as for abs, i havent had a chance to look properly. theres no loss of fluid.

what the seller said was:- when driving back to my garage and under breaking there was a bang and the pedal hit the floor hence no breaks.

so what i'm doing is looking at worst case "remove abs", unless anyone has any other ideas???

Gavin.

[Sloppy 0]

sounds like a mechanical faliure rather than electrical, i have a completer abs block off an early mi16 if you need one.

[AlexN 7]

If you do need to change the brake system then I have done it. It will take you about 6 hours or so to do it all, be sure to drain the whole system first then remove the abs pump then the master cylinder assembly. The trickiest bit is to unclip the master cylinder from the brake pedal (fiddly rather than difficult) and reattaching the new one. You'll need to get hold of two splitters (if you are using a master cylinder with 2 outputs - if your new one has four then you don't need them), these can be found at a scrappy. You will ned to redo the brake lines, but if you know a friendly mechanic I'm sure they will help you out.

 

If you are going to get a new master cylinder make sure it is the 22mm one (any peugeot master cylinder will do doesn't have to be off an Mi16 specifically), and tbh the hassle of fitting the abs system as well is just too much.

 

The pedal feel and brakeing power is much better now that I have done it, I have so much more confidence in the system now. If you try it and need any help pm me and i'll try and talk you through it in more detail!

[Guest serrento405]

there is two non abs master cylinder on e bay at the moment

[Guest badboyracer3500]

[quote=serrento405

there is two non abs master cylinder on e bay at the moment

 

 

 

 

 

thanks, will now have a look.

 

thanks to all, lots of info.

Gavin.

[Bonez 0]

thats what i like about the PH2 ABS if it goes you still have brakes!

 

but mine works perfectly first and only 405 i have had that it does mind lol the 3 others havent!

Edited November 25, 2006 by Bonez

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

2nd half of phase 1 as well bonez

[Jer309GTi 3]

Yeah I have a phase 1 with the later ABS system

 

Most of the time the reason the later Bosch system doesn't work is because of the sensors on the hubs getting covered in s*it and so not picking up the signal from the teeth on the driveshaft properly.

Edited November 25, 2006 by Jer309GTi

[JOHN89MI16 0]

Ive just spent 8 hours today changing my phase 1 integral abs system to a servo and a master cylinder. Its not a job i wish to do again in a hurry! All ive got left to do now is bleed the brakes.

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

Bet you're glad that's over with!

And look at the space you've got to get your alternator out now!!

[JOHN89MI16 0]

I never really thought of it that way but now you come to mention it, it does look like it will make it easier to remove the alternator when its time. Also i hope i might be able to gain abit of extra speed now that all that weight has been removed. I completely ripped it all out including the loom which had a few bare wires plus the pump was leaking down onto the brake pedal which i didnt know until removal. Hopefully this is the last thing i need to do to the braking system because ive changed everything including all pipe work apart from the rear calipers now.

[JOHN89MI16 0]

Ive just read an earlier post by alexn about changing to a master cylinder and servo and he had the same problem i now have but i couldnt find a solution to it. The problem is that now its all been removed including the abs loom, i now have the stop light and handbrake light on all the time even while im driving. All thats left on the car to do with the abs is the unpluged wheels sensors(seized on car) and a 3 pin white plug under the glove box. Any help on how to sort these lights out would be great so i can finally put this 6 month braking saga behind me. Thanks

[AlexN 7]

I never unplugged the abs sensors at the wheel, maybe that is my problem? I never got to the bottom of the cause of the light myself, I haven't had the time to really look into properly with all the other things going wrong on the car. If anyone does have a suggestion as to what could be causing I would like to know!

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

Take out the bulb.

[AlexN 7]

No i have already done that in regards to the abs warning light, the problem I have is the STOP light staying on all the time. I have a feeling it is to do with the fluid level sensor, or maybe the wheel sensors. I'm not entirely sure what inputs cause the STOP light to come on. If someone could give me a definitive list of causes for STOP light activation I could eliminate each in turn to find the problem. It could be entirely unrelated to the brake conversion, which is quite scary as that means i have an unknown problem!

[pug309twin40s 1]

stop light usually comes on if oil pressure is low or engine temp is high.

 

im sure thats the only things that would cause the stop light to come on.

[AlexN 7]

hmm, well I have a feeling that my oil pressure sensor (and temp sensor for that matter) are a bit dodgy. I might replace them both and see what happens. I guess neither sensor is that expensive?

[KRISKARRERA 2 1 Cars]

Yeah I had same prob and got a 2nd hand one off of Miles.

[JOHN89MI16 0]

Today i had no work in the workshop so i decided to get my car in and investigate why the stop light is on all the time since i ripped out all the integral ABS. I found out that there is 3 relays by the clutch pedal and that 1 of them is the abs relay. If you remove the 5 pin cartier orange relay it makes the stop light and handbrake light go out when the engine is running but they both still work if you just turn the ignition on.

I hope this is of any help to anyone who has done this type of conversion.