[car_restoration] Saved From The Chavs! Cherry Red Restoration

[snakeskin boots 0]

This is exactly where I am at with my 205 restoration, I peeled back the same area on my car (except it's the Drivers side the Passanger side seems ok) and have the same areas rusting away. I took the gamble and started to strip back the paint on the Sill and lo and behold it's rusted away along the final 10 inches and behind the Sill I found more rusty pieces on the inner Sill. I will try and get some photo's tonight as I am going to cut out the offending pieces and butcher a new sill to replace the old rusted ones.

 

I need to get some new parts fabricated for the inner sill and wheel arch, this thread http://forum.205gtidrivers.com/index.php?showtopic=127191 shows you the extent of how bad things can get but also how easily it can all be repaired so don't despair if you keep uncovering more rusty bits!!!

 

Michael

[SkyQuake 70 1 Cars]

Dear All,

 

An update on how things are going. First, the good news. I had a friend of mine over at the weekend, who owns a classic mini city, and hence is a master welder. Several hours of grinding, beating and welding later, I have a sound wheel arch/quarter panel.

 

 

Unfortunately, the boot floor was a bit of a sorry state, and is going to need a number of patchwork parts sewing into place.

 

 

Several of these patches are completely through, so I decided to strip the underside completely to gauge the full extent. This necessitated removing the rear beam and wire brushing the underside. A disgusting job if ever I've done one! Still, I'm happier now that I know for sure that it's not much worse than it looks in the above picture.

 

My buddy has left me with the welder, but I doubt my efforts will be as neat as his!

 

Moving on, I've been looking at repairing and reinforcing the bumper mounting bracket which had come off completely. Went back to the old school with a bit of paper prototyping.

 

 

After several iterations of this, I then CADded up the finished design and had these babies made up on the laser and brake press at work (being an engineer has some benefits!)

 

 

Thought I was being really bl**dy clever too, before I read the article Snakeskin (thanks for the encouragement, much appreciated!) recommended to me:

 

I need to get some new parts fabricated for the inner sill and wheel arch, this thread http://forum.205gtid...howtopic=127191 shows you the extent of how bad things can get but also how easily it can all be repaired so don't despair if you keep uncovering more rusty bits!!!

 

Credit to M@tt for achieving exactly the same as I did, but without any of the high-tech weaponry I employed! Still, mine do look the part, and at 1.5mm thick, they're a good bit tougher than their Peugeot counterparts.

 

 

One advantage of using CAD however, is that I can now make the laser file available to anyone who wants it, should you need to get your own made up.

 

After the little setback with the boot floor I decided to remove the centre console, carpet and insulation to check for any other rust spots. This was most amusing, as I discovered an inch deep layer of stagnant water in the passenger's footwell, coloured green by the saturated solution of insulation. Eugh! With this in mind, it was pleased to find that there wasn't actually much rust in the floor. Nothing that the jenolite can't cure anyway!

 

 

I'd never originally intended to remove the rear beam, but as it was off, I gave it a good going over. It's actually in remarkably good condition, and everything moves nicely. I had one of these freeze solid on the GTX, so this has cheered me up a lot!

 

 

However, I was a little discouraged to find that the rubber suspention mounts were completely shot to sh!t, and actually falling apart! Eeek!

 

 

Not expensive, but very worrying, as I know I wouldn't have seen this if it was fitted to the vehicle. Still, with a clean up and a lick of paint, that beam will be good for years yet!

 

Weather permitting, I'll be having a welding weekend. I'll let you know how it goes!

[welshpug 1,661]

Oooo, now then if you have the drawing and brake press access you should definitely get a batch made up!

[TOYBOY 1]

I'd certainly have a pair of bumper mounts off you if a batch were made up. I think you'll find they would be very popular.

[Miles 331 1 Cars]

I really would still give the beam a strip down, like preventive maintenance is better than oh s***t the beams dead again

[SkyQuake 70 1 Cars]

Welshpug, Toyboy & Jackherer,

 

I will certainly look at getting a batch made up. I'm sure they won't be that expensive from my workplace. Although I'm still a passenger, so it'll be a while before I can advertise them on 'for sale/group buys.' As a result I'll briefly deviate from topic to ask, is there anyone who would have access to a better original pattern? As I said before, my mounts were rusted to hell, so not brilliant to copy!

 

@ Miles, many thanks for the advice, I know you're right, but I'm gonna have to take my chances with the rear beam. Otherwise I'll never have the damn thing finished! After all, it's not that difficult to take off when it does eventually freeze!

 

Cheers,

Edited August 20, 2012 by SkyQuake

[SkyQuake 70 1 Cars]

Dear All,

 

Work seem to be more than happy to run off a batch for me. I'm just waiting on some estimated prices. Therefore, a couple of questions:

1. Stick with 1.5mm, or would a more original thinner gauge be preferable?
   
2. Include grommet hole for galvanise drain plug?
   
3. Include through hole for sunroof drain pipe?
   

With regard to my 'welding weekend,' turns out I've forgotten everything I ever learned about welding, and I'm crap at it! More practice required. Spent the weekend painting up the rear beam and grinding more rust off the underside of my boot!

 

Mike

[snakeskin boots 0]

If you are getting a batch made up I would love to buy a set off you Skyquake, I wouldn't want all that effort you have put in to go to waste :-)

 

I have no idea answering the questions above but I am sure someone on here will know, I will keep an eye out for when you have a batch ready and be in touch.

 

Michael

[welshpug 1,661]

yes to all three

 

welding car bodywork, especially old french (or british) is quite a different art to welding clean steel on a bench!

[TOYBOY 1]

Yes to all three questions from me to.

[miamichris 9]

Its about time someone got round to making these rear bumper brackets up! Nice one I'd also be interested in a pair if they get made! Good luck with the project too pal.

[SkyQuake 70 1 Cars]

Dear All,

 

Just to let you know that work seem pretty happy to make up a batch of these bumper mounting brackets. Just waiting on prices..

 

In other news, did a lovely job of painting up my rear beam. All glistening yellow & black with plasti-dip red roll bars. I then promptly dropped it, and now I shall be starting from scratch...

 

Due to the British summer, I have made little progress on the car itself recently, and have busied myself plasticare-ing and trim painting, so nothing much to report.

 

My fuel lines look pretty cracked up, so I was wondering about replacing them. Can't seem to find any on eBay, so if you've got any in your garden shed, give me a shout! Can you get braided ones anywhere?

 

Cheers,

 

Mike

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

i'd be after a pair of the brackets too

 

quick question, what did you use to cut out the rust, as it looks like a very neat square of panel that you removed, cant've been with a grinder surely?

[SkyQuake 70 1 Cars]

Johnnyboy,

 

As it happens, it was the grinder. I just used a fairly well used disc (smaller) and finished the corner (and near the sill) with a hacksaw blade.

 

When I come to removing the through spots in the boot floor, I was planning to use a sheet metal hole saw, and then fill each hole with a punched disc. This should look the neatest, but it does give me a tricky butt weld to deal with!

 

Mike

[joed66 4]

One of them tail gate strips sold on ebay for £85. And did i mention it was snapped in half haha

[vtifan 26]

Dear All,

 

Just to let you know that work seem pretty happy to make up a batch of these bumper mounting brackets. Just waiting on prices..

 

In other news, did a lovely job of painting up my rear beam. All glistening yellow & black with plasti-dip red roll bars. I then promptly dropped it, and now I shall be starting from scratch...

 

Due to the British summer, I have made little progress on the car itself recently, and have busied myself plasticare-ing and trim painting, so nothing much to report.

 

My fuel lines look pretty cracked up, so I was wondering about replacing them. Can't seem to find any on eBay, so if you've got any in your garden shed, give me a shout! Can you get braided ones anywhere?

 

Cheers,

 

Mike

car looks very similar to mine in the rusty areas,i really think thats pretty much as good as you are going to find shell wise,i would really take your wire wheel to the last 10 inches of sill as you often find that the stonechip is the only thing holding it together,a good pointer is the seam sealer at the bottom of the sill join,if it is split or cracked there will almost definately be rust or rot under there.keep up the good work and if in doubt cut it out

put me down for the pair of bumper support as well please 1.5 mm with the 2 holes if possible p.s i dont think a chav has ever been near this car

[SkyQuake 70 1 Cars]

Dear All,

 

Been away for a week surfing (or trying to) on the Gower, South Wales, so that's the reason for the lack of updates.

 

This weekend however, I have manages to make some good progress. I have been spending the majority of my time laid on my back, finding more and more small rust patches in the underside of my boot floor panel. I've spent so long under there now that I had to invest in a Screwfix Car Creeper, which is the best £26.99 I have ever spent!

 

http://www.screwfix....r-creeper/16245

 

It seems that the mixture of old underseal and waxoyl has managed to hide a multitude of sins! So to anyone attempting the same venture on the driveway, here's my advice:

1. Don't. Pay some chump to do it for you.
   
2. Buy a car creeper and a really good full face mask, the angle grinder wire brush is a beast from underneath.
   
3. Work in patches. Don't try to do the whole lot in one go. Clean a section, treat with rust killer and etch prime. If you try to do the whole lot in one go it is just an epic task!
   

 

I have also now finally sorted out the damage caused by the large spoiler, and sourced a replacement. Pictures to follow.

 

Nearly finished painting the rear beam (again). Here's an action shot of me using Wurzel's technique of burning out rear beam bushes. There's nothing like the smell of scorching rubber in the morning!

 

 

Hopefully I'll be looking at sorting the rest of the dent's & bodywork damage, and removing the engine in the next few weeks. Watch this space!

 

Mike

[m@ttc 30]

• Work in patches. Don't try to do the whole lot in one go. Clean a section, treat with rust killer and etch prime. If you try to do the whole lot in one go it is just an epic task!
  

just figuring this out myself good tip, keep it up

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

i did the whole underside of mine last year, b*tch of a job but well worth it.

 

you waxoyl'ing it too?

[welshpug 1,661]

do hope you're doing above the tank whilst you're at it as well

[SkyQuake 70 1 Cars]

@ PugPete,

 

It certainly is a b*tch, couldn't agree more. Dropped the angle grinder with wire brush on myself not to long ago, and it bit a lump out of my arm!

 

Haven't decided on the coating(s) yet. My old man (who is a very experienced mechanic) absolutely swears by waxoyl, as it allows you to see rust forming (as opposed to rubber coatings, which completely hide the rust until it's too late!) But I'm a little concerned about the level of chip resistance it offers. Maybe I'll just apply it with a trowel and solve both problems in one!

 

@ Welshpug

 

I had assumed that the metalwork above the tank would have been fully shielded by the tank itself. Have I made a daft assumption? I was kinda hoping to get away without removing the tank; that is unless you're about to tell me that that would be daft!

 

Cheers,

 

Mike

[johnnyboy666 195 1 Cars]

But I'm a little concerned about the level of chip resistance it offers. Maybe I'll just apply it with a trowel and solve both problems in one!

 

I found out that it won't dry at all if you put it on too thick, you just end up with sticky tar-like surface that gets all manner of dust and grit stuck to it!

[welshpug 1,661]

unfortunately the tank seems to harbour the nastiness even more than not, the sills and seams suffer, its not a big job at all, just take care not to snap the two M8 studs, also gives you the opportunity to change the brake lines which rot away above the tank as well.

[pugpete1108 62 1 Cars]

i dropped the tank when i did mine, tbh mine wasnt too bad but it seemed silly not too..

 

i wire brushed the whole underneath, treated any patches, primed and top coated. then gave it two coats of brush on waxoyl.

 

its still quite sticky in some places but im sure it will go off over time

[vtifan 26]

hey mate i am doing similar on mine and using an epoxy mastic 2k paint as a base,it can be applied with a roller or brush,just treating rust with wire brush then 121 rustbeater then epoxy mastic,tiger seal all the joints then a couple of heavy coats of stonechip,then a 2k gloss over that then waxoyl all cavities and potential rust areas,should keep it at bay for a while lol,any news on these rear bumper hanger parts ? pete