Removing Rear Stub Axle To Free Ceased Bearing.

[jord294 95]

On 3/24/2025 at 7:12 AM, ArthurH said:

Apologies if I am missing the obvious, but I can't find where an Allen key should go.

Shame you are so far away, otherwise I'd offer to sort it for you

[ArthurH 8]

Sorry for the delay in replying but I really wanted to include a photo and could only access the car again this morning.  Still struggling to spot the Allen key socket.  As the stub is rotating, does that imply the splines are torn off?  I'd be surprised if we did that with a socket.

 

 

My son bought the car in 2017, it was already a race car.  The guy that built it explained he had Bridgecraft machine the front struts and rear arms to increase the camber (he didn't mention caster), Our 'Hunter' laser alignment printouts show we have 3.6° and 3.2° respectively.  I have spoken to Bridgecraft last year, who confirmed that.

[Toddy 8]

The standard stub axles have an Allen key hole on the rear to help with fitment, your stub axle fitted doesn't have the Allen key hole.

 

 

 

[Leslie green 124]

If its rotating there can't be any splines ,an impact gun should still take it off ,if not you will have to try and weaken the nut and then split it will a chisel if there is room.

Edited Saturday at 05:50 PM by Leslie green

[petert 607]

If it has been modified by Bridgecraft to increase the camber, then it has no splines. As I explained earlier, they re-bore the hole to a larger diameter, then fit one of their axles. Thus why there is no allen key hole. They obviously got the interference fit wrong.

 

I can see two solutions:

1. remove axle, apply Loctite 620 and hope that it holds,

if not,

2. turn up a slightly larger axle. It only needs to be 0.002" bigger in OD, I'd suggest.

Edited Saturday at 09:16 PM by petert

[petert 607]

Obviously to repair it you still need to remove the axle. Three things come to mind:

 

1. Drill & tap M12, for a socket headed cap screw, weld around the outside.

2. Drill & tap LH M12 for a left handed a socket headed cap screw.

3. Weld a cheap 1/2" drive socket to the end.

[ArthurH 8]

Thanks Peter, all good suggestions - We did manage to get the nut off today having removed all the staking, but have run out of time to fix it.  I will try Loctite first, but I'm thinking I could drill and tap it on the join, perhaps M6, so the bolt will become a key.  We do remove the drum very regularly; the self-adjuster probably stopped working decades ago.