Be Box Rebuild/refresh/refurb Part Sourcing, And Be1-3 Part Crossover

[blandy 29]

Has anyone got a reverse gear to measure the thickness.?

 

You were right welsh I was tottally in the wrong place as said it's definitely input shaft related to be doing it in neutral. I've found the reverse gear is catching/rubbing on the input shaft gear. It almost appears my reverse gear is to thick?

 

Now I had both this box and a xsara box apart at the same time so almost hoping it's a incorrect gear issue. I know the shim will alter the height of the input shaft ever so slightly but it does appear as if it's to thick

[welshpug 1,661]

have you got the reverse gear on the input shaft the right way round? the reverse gear itself has a chamfer on one side of the teeth too.

[blandy 29]

Yeah i did notice that. I also tried both ways a min ago to check but makes no difference.

 

The Reverse linkage was different on the xsara box but dont remember the gears being any thing different

 

Mine is 15.5mm thick im hoping theres a few mm difference but think im clutching at straws. Its definately the reverse gear touching though 100% as testing on the bench you can see it touching and with reverse removed its silent

 

 

Edit just re read your post i thought you meant the reverse gear. Ill go check on the input shaft now as could well be as i had it apart to replace the synchro

Edited January 26, 2017 by blandy

[blandy 29]

Looking at the picture you posted earlier in the thread of your input shaft you can actually see a differnce

 

Your pic

 

My input shaft

 

[welshpug 1,661]

not sure which detail you mean but don't forget mine was a late BE1.

[blandy 29]

from the bearing you have the gear then a gap - then the long gear - then a gap.

 

If it makes sense the 2nd gap (furthest from the bearing) on your shaft looks wider, My reverse gear is contacting all the time with the top of the "wider" gear section

[blandy 29]

 

[blandy 29]

not sure which detail you mean but don't forget mine was a late BE1.

 

Tried to highlight here

 

[blandy 29]

and this is mine as you can see the gap either side of the gear is quite different

 

[blandy 29]

Just checked service box and the reverse gears for be1 and be3 are different part nos 2381 50 and 2381 30

 

can anyone confirm if there is a difference in thickness

[welshpug 1,661]

have you got the reverse gear that matches that shaft?

[blandy 29]

No infuriatingly I had all the bits sat around and chucked the box by mistake on Monday in the skip at work. On tues realised and went to find it and Sod's law it had been emptied

 

Is your xsara box still in bits? If so could you measure the reverse cog?

 

Or if anyone has a be3 input shaft and can measure the parts in the previous pic

Edited January 27, 2017 by blandy

[blandy 29]

Just a thought. Thinking of the origins of this box. It came from dixons infamous 306 which thinking about it started as a 1.8 306 .. could this be where the difference is comming from I.e id assume the shafts are original to that box

[welshpug 1,661]

doesn't really matter where it came from really, its just a be box witb a 4.4 fd.

 

as for the width of the reverse gear, and the gap either side on the input shaft, that doesn't matter as the idler gear is in constant mesh.

 

what is important is that you have the correct gear to match the shaft and corresponding driven gear inbetween the 1-2 synchro, the tooth profile was changed at some point

[blandy 29]

As silly as it sounds which part does the gear run on when you say constant mesh? The only other thing I'm wondering is the reverse linkage in the box doesn't feel solid I.e the ball under the linkage seems a little week?

 

There's a zx box on eBay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272530248496

 

Could I remove the reverse gear and I put shaft out of this to ensure I have matched parts?

 

All this because I threw the wrong part out

[welshpug 1,661]

what does your reverse driven gear look like? the one between the 1-2 synchro.

[blandy 29]

Not the best pic as not got box at home as is on a bench in workshop

 

 

Also that would of been the original reverse gear in the box lol

[blandy 29]

Actually yes I do have a proper pic

 

[blandy 29]

Looking at the old picture of when I stripped it its actually clear to see the teeth on the reverse gear at totally different to the one fitted now

I.e

 

 

[welshpug 1,661]

ahh yes, that's the two different types of tooth profile I've noticed, though never mixed them so I never knew if they were compatible or not!

 

so you have the square toothed one now which is making the noise and need the pointy one? I may have a spare.

 

I checked the BE4 xsara box and its the squarer profile

[blandy 29]

Brilliant at least it kinda solves the whole mystery as that's clearly what I've done wrong - put the xsara one in.

 

If you would have a pointy one that would be brilliant as that's all I need and the box is good to go

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

In the middle of doing this myself and stuck on removing the clutch arm. The bolt wont budge, have you got any tips on removing it?

 

[welshpug 1,661]

if its the threaded type its an m7 thread, get a slide hammer attached and apply lots of heat.

 

that type is an interference fit so can be particularly stubborn.

[Slo 283 1 Cars]

Slide hammer? What and just yank it out of its thread? Coincidentally i've just bought a slide hammer.

 

It's the only piece of the box that wont come out, its bare after this and i can get on cleaning it.

[welshpug 1,661]

the main shank of the pin is not threaded, only the exposed nose of it.