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IanH

Mi16 Rebuild Oil Advice

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IanH

Just looking for some advice on what oil to run in my freshly rebuilt '88 mi16.

 

I've just got it in the car last weekend, and with a bit of luck with the weather, will be ready to turn over this weekend, maybe...

 

I completely stripped it down, top and bottom, upped the compression ratio to 11:1, new big end and main shells, piston rings and honed liners, sump and pump baffle both with trap doors, windage tray, sump and pickup extension etc, and its running some 316 duration cams on hydraulic lifters with jenvey bodies and omex management.

 

With the new cams (fresh billet), I will be running them in with cam lube for the recommended 20 mins at 2k, then doing an oil change as theres quite a lot of new bits in there. I'm planning to use the same grade oil for running in, as the oil it will end up with after running in unless Im told otherwise.

 

I'm not too fussed about the price of the oil used (within reason). The rebuild was due to the engine deciding to eat its kent cams which was probably down to oil starvation / surge, so as far as oil goes, I wont be cutting any corners especially considering Ive spent an awful lot more getting it back to being a healthy engine.

 

Any advice very much appreciated, cheers.

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Baz

Run it in on multigrade mineral oil for the first few hundred miles and then change to a semi-synth.

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IanH

Cheers Baz, any particular oils in mind?

 

The wishbones and shafts are in and looking damn good with a coat of POR15, especially as pretty much everything else front suspension related is either powder coated or covered in the same stuff :)

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Normski

Millers do an oil for this exact job, it's called 'competion running in oil'. It's a mineral with some kind of additives to help the bedding in process. I've used it in a couple of engines, not much in it cost wise.

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kyepan

as above, once it's up to temp after the 20 mins at 2k, make sure you get the cylinder pressures up, but watch the temps for the first 50 miles.

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brumster

When I rebuilt my mi16, I just put the cheapest mineral from my local trusted motor factors that I could find. 150 to 200 miles on it, then out and in with the good stuff, and 'job done' as they say. Engine served me well, with lots of abuse from the get-go. Still in my garage as a spare; can't bare to part with it!

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IanH

I've gone for the Millers CRO.

 

After reading reams of different opinions on running in procedures, the one outlined here seems to make the most sense to me:

 

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

 

2 fills of CRO and then a final fill of semi-synthetic along with some good filters at each stage (Peugeot OE) and that should be that.

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